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Well Jeff, the term corbel is new to me also. I always thought corbel was a champagne. But as far as supporting the granite: I think those corbels are quite ugly and rather than replace them with more ugly corbels, I'd be inclined to build a support structure around the top of the knee wall and trim it out. If you were to add a perimeter of 2×4's dressed ...

There are a lot of bad fabricators installing granite these days. I have seen everything from edges that are waxed instead of polished and tops that are dyed to make them look like a more expensive stone than the fabricator purchased. If they did a bad job there is no reason to believe any of it is done right. Do the water test suggested above. It will ...

you can leave some water for an hour and see if the granite gets darker. If it does -then it's not sealed. It will dry in a day or so. I personally prefer not to seal it, because the sealant changes the color of granite. If you clean up the liquids right away it will be fine. Especially oils, wine and tomato juice. Many stores sell granite sealers, usually ...

Assuming you don't have extensive scratching or damage to your countertops, sometimes a simple acrylic sealer/refinsiher will work great. You will need to clean the tops thoroughly with a non abrasive cleaner and rinse completely. After they are dry, simply apply the acrylic sealer with a lint free smooth cloth evenly over the whole surface. Let this dry ...

Your question verges on asking for opinions rather than a technical answer. The functions of either type are identical. Stainless has always been considered the best choice for longevity and durability. The newer composites are very popular, but somewhat suspectable to scratching from hard metal cookware such as cast iron. I have seen some disclosures on ...

Absolutely not. Epoxies are formulated for different cure times, cure temperatures, bonding to different materials, performance in various extreme environments, etc. That said, amongst the various hardware store 5 minute general purpose epoxies, I doubt there is a lot of difference between brands. I know nothing of the specifics for this application, I would ...

Based on the flexibility of the flat bar stock, I decided to use square 1/2" tube stock. Using a 3/4" MDF subtop, I routed channels 5/8" wide and 9/16" deep. I then filled these channels with polyurethane glue, set in the steel bars, and finally I used a drywall knife to spread and flatten glue over the top of the bars. Here are pictures of my actual ...

I had a similar countertop, and thought about making corbels, but ended up modifying pine shelf brackets from Lowes. I doubled them up, gluing two brackets together & filled the seam with wood putty.

I can't leave a picture on my comment, so I have to leave a whole new answer. Here is what I recently did. The one wall was not enough to support the counter top, so I put the T on the end. Also, as another answer... When I was looking for corbels for this, I found that Home Depot had corbels in two different places. One place was all the decorative ...

If you're looking for a modest, inexpensive solution, then wood corbels or some hybrid as discussed would be your answer. However, if you have the budget and desire a classy look to enhance that new granite countertop, I'd consider wrought iron corbels.

Yikes!!!! OMG!!!!! I cannot fathom a granite supplier not knowing if a permanent sealer was applied in the polishing process of their product. I would be talking to the owner of said company for answers. The granite comes to all fabricators from the miller and they know what finish is on them. Ask the right questions and you will get he right answers. ...

No. The tile beneath the pony wall should be removed. One of the things that a thinset and tile underlayment do is decouple the tile from the subfloor beneath it. By contrast, you explicitly want the pony wall supporting the slab to be coupled to the subfloor. Then the pony wall should be secured both to the subfloor and the cabinets against it. The ...

Anchoring them to studs is just fine, your main problem is going to be getting brackets that will support that amount of weight. The amount of weight each bracket will support will be printed on the package. I would consult your granite or stone supplier for weights of their products. You MUST make sure that you're anchored into studs, though, and ...

How much of an overhand do you plan on having? The spec I saw was that 10 inches were allowed with no supports. When the granite guy came to measure mine he told me I didn't really need them even at 12. I had alread put in corbels which look good, but do get in the way of knees. If I did it again, I would consider going to 10" and not having any bracking. ...

How do I clean my Natural Stone tiles and slabs? Clean stone surfaces with a few drops of neutral PH stone cleaner available at retail stores or at your local tile and stone dealer, or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water. Use a clean rag mop on floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces for best results. Too much cleaner or soap ...

I am guessing that your sink weight is causing the pressure, making the cracks worse. If I am right on this then the first thing you need to do is build a simple way to support the sink using wood or whatever - I have 2x2s that are screwed to side cabinet and pushed up to support it. So that will cost you $3. If side walls are not close enough you have to ...

What some manufactures call quartz is actually ground granite and epoxy or Silestone. In most cases they are great and don't require sealing like solid granite does. I suspect you may have purchased a bargain brand that is inferior to Silestone or solid granite or good grade Quartzite type. Also, do not confuse Stilestone or similar to real solid quartz ...

I don't know much about countertop weights, I've never done one, but I can tell you that flat steel is strongest along it's smallest edge. It's not supposed to be too rigid when flat. For example, if I have a quarter inch thick piece of steel, 3 inches wide and 1 foot long, if I put it down flat on 2 end supports and stood on it, it would bow. If I braced ...

The typical thing to use when joining the two slabs would be epoxy, clear or tinted to match the color of the stone. It's been a while since I've used it, so I don't know how easy it is to find 'pourable' epoxy that's intended for repairs after installation. (we used to use it for making composite structures, as you can spread it really thinly). You'd ...