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While functionally the same, it is simpler to replace a receptacle gfci than a breaker. It is a bit scary for some to pull the cover off and work on an open panel. And it is dangerous. It is safer to simply cut the power from the panel, switch it out and be done with it. The receptacle also constrains the coverage area, which is an unknown in the case of ...


3

There are two reasons that I can think of off the top of my head. 1) A GFCI breaker when tripped kills the entire circuit, including things you may not want to be killed. 2) According to an electrician friend, the breakers are a bit more sensitive and so nuisance trip more often.


10

I think you're more likely to get opinions on this type of question, but I think the top arguments are: Ease of access- it's easier to reset a tripped GFCI in the same room. Easier to retrofit- it's easier for a homeowner to install a receptacle than to dig around in the panel. Even if this type of panel work is trivial, most people just aren't comfortable ...


7

Both forms exist. The receptacle version can be installed by any reasonably handy individual. The breaker-box version provides broader coverage but is beyond the skills of most amateurs --- I could do it, but I would not be comfortable doing it. Also, some of us have old boxes which make simply finding a compatible breaker a challenge; manufacturers of ...


-3

Don't know if this reply is factual, but I have been informed by at least 2 sources, that starting load for refrigerators is quite high and that this quite often causes the GFI to trip on start-up. This also would cause any other GFI on any other circuit to also trip when the fridge is plugged into it. Also, I'm told that all GFI's are now made with a ...


1

Usually it's physically obvious - depending on how exposed the wiring is (typically in the basement, if at all) it can be easier or more difficult to be sure, but it will almost always be the one closest to the breaker box. In some cases the wire routing won't be so straightforward, but usually it is. I'm assuming you are capable of safely working with ...


1

I have found that GFIs installed outdoors do not last nearly as long as indoors. Your issue is likely the constant proximity to water. My suggestion is to install the GFI at a point in the circuit inside the house, or even install a GFI breaker.


4

It won't nuisance trip. It will trip because you've deliberately created a ground-fault. You should never connect the grounding conductor to the grounded (neutral), except in the service equipment. Which means you should remove the jumper between the ground and neutral.


0

With GFCI Protection of Devices If you want to provide GFCI protection of the fixture, you'd feed the switches from the LOAD side of the GFCI device. Without GFCI Protection of Devices If you don't want to provide GFCI protection to the devices, you'd feed the switches from the incoming feeder. NOTE: I've labeled one of the dimmer terminals as "C" ...



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