New answers tagged gates
I decided to go the route of getting the metal tube gates and possibly mounting the wood touches to it for the looks. I came to this conclusion for multiple reason; After running the costs of building the entire gate out of wood, surprisingly it comes out to almost the same as just buying the tube gates. My local farm store, where I bought the gates from, ...
if you could get it tight enough, you could attach the lock in other ways to keep the latch from lifting. did you try any of these configurations?
Maybe you can find an anvil padlock that would fit?
I would suggest reversing the lock. First the lock "should" be on the inside. After that the peg part should be on the gate, and the latch part on the post, but because you need more room, put the latch part on the gate, and the peg part on the post. It's not ideal because you will have a "peg part" sticking out into the walk through area, but it will ...
If you were my client and I was taking money for your project, I'd put wood on a metal substructure, have wheels on the ends, and make sure the posts were extremely well stuck in the ground. (You might be able to skimp a little on the post as long as the wheels are in contact with the ground at all points in the arc, but the other two points would be non-...
One option would be to drill holes through the post to allow you to use the lock that you have (or perhaps a slightly longer lock).
It would be fairly easy to retrofit a proper locking latch. Product link (for reference only) Here's one that locks from either side. You'd need to grind off the old one, drill for the new one, paint, and mount the new one.
There are cable locks that have a plain end to the cable that might fit through. You might have to file the hole a little bigger in the lock mechanism to allow the end of the cable to angle through. There are also shorter cable locks, but they tend to have a beefier cable end that is captive within the locking mechanism. Images and links are for ...
If you have aprox 3' in the ground and cement around the post it will work (I have a 14' tube gate on a 4x4 just 1 post). I have quite a few of these on my property (+ 10 at least to fence horses) where I could not sink the post deep enough I added a small 6" tire to the end of the gate it carries the load.
No. Those holders give virtually no torsional support. Your gate will tear it right down. Plan on robust posts in a substantial concrete footing to carry that torque load. Either that and do what I did and run some snow fence on a pair of 1/4" vinyl-coated cable. The gate won't contain a toddler, and the snow fence wouldn't either, but it gives a visual ...
Pull the gate off the hinges and notch only the area the hinge bracket covers the thickness of the bracket or slightly more this should come close to giving enough clearance. If more clearance notch the post at the point where the bracket is attached. Done well this is the cleanest looking way and less work than resetting the post or trimming the edge (this ...
Would NOT Swing 10' wood gates @ six foot height wooden gate on a six by six doug fir or southern pine treated wood post. If you want to use a wood post for a big gate 10ft at 6 ft high you can, and u should it looks better than steel, but you have to use steel for big spans. install a plate 2" x 1/2" thick along the opposite edge of the gate from the way ...
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