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Your furnace is shutting down on limit. There can be a number of causes for this. Start by making sure you have a clean filter in the furnace. A dirty or restrictive filter can cause this issue. Alternatively you could also have a dirty or plugged up A/C evaporator coil which is located above your furnace. This can also cause a furnace to cycle off on high ...


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Your issue sounds like a bad blower wheel or squirrel cage as most refer to it as. Your blower motor spins at a faster speed for A/C so the when just may be warped or bent in a way where it does not vibrate as badly at a certain rpm. You could have easily bent a fin when cleaning it or our issue from the start could have been a warped or bent wheel. Try ...


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On most fireplaces I've seen (non-electronic start), a thermocouple provides enough power, along with the initial press/hold of the solenoid, to keep the solenoid open for the pilot light to remain lit. There is also a thermopile that provides enough power to open/close the solenoid that controls the main burners (on it's own, without requiring you to first ...


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Some gas fireplaces with electric start have a thermopile that generates enough electricity to keep the valve open, even if you disconnect the mains electricity. So if the fireplace was on already and you disconnect the main power, I would expect the fire to stay on. However, starting by itself is not a good thing. I would look at two components: the ...


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Actually, this requires a system analysis to determine if it's a problem of the water heater, or a problem of your system needing a expansion tank. For instance, if your water supply is provided with a check valve or a pressure reducing valve/regulator on its input, a water heater full of cold water will cause expansion, and without an expansion tank or an ...


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During normal operation, no water should be discharged from the T&P (temp and pressure relief) valve. If the water is leaking from the valve at the bottom of the unit, then it likely isn't shut fully. If you're talking about the T&P valve, either the valve is faulty, or a fault condition is occurring that is causing the water heater to overheat. ...


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Have you checked your inlet pressure and compare with the manufacturer's specified manifold pressure? If the inlet pressure is too high, you may need to install an appliance regulator and adjust it to the manufacture's specified pressure.


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Check that the gas supply is okay. Maybe someone fiddled with the gas valve. Maybe there is a gas leak outdoors. Verify that another gas appliance is working correctly. Check the space between the pilot light and its themopile or thermocouple. If the flame is not heating the sensor, the pilot light is supposed to be cut off to prevent gas accumulation. ...


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The elbow looks good, but what happens after that seems to be a mess. Circled in red appears to be a flared adapter, which is connected to the valve using far too much dope to tell exactly what's going on. I'd assume by the large amount of dope, that it's the wrong type of fitting. Circled in orange appears to be a galvanized steel nipple, which has ...



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