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It looks like about the only thing you can do is add a drop ceiling in this area. Code here would require the drywall to be 5/8ths between a garage area and a living area. Basically this means putting in a frame to support that drywall. It wouldn't have to be finished except on the joints, and if you have an area you need to leave access to, you can make ...


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This idea is definitely against building codes every place in the United States unless you install a fire rated window! All codes require a minimum of a one hour rated firewall between the garage in the residence including in the attic area and some areas even extend this to a 2 hour rated wall. This includes doors and any other penetrations through the ...


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Your local building code requirements hold sway, and I encourage you to review them prior to planning. That being said, many building codes specify a garage/home separation, but fall somewhat short of requiring a an actual fire rating. The separation has some requirements that provide more fire protection and exhaust protection than typical living space ...


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You'd do this like you would add any other new window. Find the studs, choose a location, cut square holes in the drywall on both sides, cut sections out of the intervening studs to make room for the new window, and frame the new window properly like this: Then you would flash the rough opening's sill with self-adhering membrane and install the window ...


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the easiest way to store paint in the winter is in an old refrigerator in the workshop, has insulation, etc just leave the unit as is and install a incandescent light bulb of about 40w connected to an old wall thermostat in the bottom. When the temperature inside the unit drops below what you have set it to the light comes on. If you are really worried, ...


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Which means, for all practical purposes, the actual water heater should be elevated approximately 12-14" above the garage floor. The burner/ ignition flame is likely 4"-6" above the base of the water heater. Adding the two together gives the required 18". Code doesn't require the gas water heater itself to be elevated 18"' just the burner/ ignition ...


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As I suspected, the code you're referencing is from the National Fuel Gas Code. I was not able to find anything in National Electrical Code, or International Residential Code that mentions this in the context of electric appliances. National Fuel Gas Code 2002 Chapter 8 Equipment Installation 8.1 General. 8.1.10 Installation in Residential ...


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Everybody is very focused on insulation. While you need to address this and make sure it's everything it can be, the problem could also be the design of the heating system. The heating elements (vents, radiators, etc.) may be inadequate for the heat loss of the room, and/or the location of the thermostat doesn't adequately represent all areas controlled by ...


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In case anyone else wants to know: I went and bought a 330 Volt 54-63 uf capacitor and installed it. Not only did I not electrocute myself, I fixed it. It cost me < $7 - not too bad.


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In that climate, the most energy efficient method is a heat pump. An added bonus is that it can air condition during hot times, something that is presumably a requirement for an office space or guest room in SoCal. Heat pumps come in all kinds of flavors, but those designed for and often used in commercial and residential space should be plenty quiet. ...



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