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In my last house a daylight basement the original sheetrock was glued to the cement walls with liquid nails that worked very well. I did pull it all out and add furring for electrical spaces. (I don't like exposed conduit and surface boxes in a room that became my man land). If you are worried about cracking at the sill add a accent trim over the gap.


One possible solution (there are no doubt others, and I'll be interested to see what they are) is to set a strip (4 to 12" wide) of 1/2" cement-based tile-backer board at the bottom edge of the drywall.


Here's your best bet: Build a landing outside the door basically where the current top level is, but shift it a bit to come out at a 45 from the corner to the right of the door (where the exposed stud is). This gives you more clearance when you're carrying groceries in through the door. Bring one conventional step down to the left, square with the wall. ...


I would acid etch the old cement with a strong muriatic acid solution to clean and make the surface rough. Then add a adhesive promoter like Moos milk painted on the slab that will help the cement bond and reduce cracking. I have done this on floors as thin as 3/4" and as thick as 2" with good results. With a thin slab a fine aggregate like 1/4" will also ...


Sorry to combine many parts of the other answers, but none so far have all the components to fully satisfy your question. First, you definitely need a pulley near the ceiling to remove yourself from the ladder permanently. If you can mount a pulley on your wall perpendicular to the direction of the canoe hoist, you could use this unit. If you need to be ...


Yes, as mentioned in the comments you should definitely be using an additional pulley for a directional change. As for a "brake", go to the outdoors/mountaineering store and ask for a small lightweight "ascender", these will basically allow the rope to pass through in a single direction but grab instantly if the rope moves the other direction with any load ...


If the canoe is getting in the way, can you not put a second pulley wheel with the cord over it off to the side so you can pull the cord from the ground? Then you can just use a standard cleat.


Use a jam cleat or a cam cleat mounted to to the wall. Or you could use the horn cleat that came with the prior system. You wrap the rope around the cleat in a figure 8 pattern, and then tie it off. Alternatively (and this works specifically for canoes), you can put loop of nylon webbing on the ceiling with wire around the top to spread it open, and a ...


I find that stucco homes have this problem because of the metal mesh in the walls act like a faraday cage. You may be able to extend the antenna to the exterior of the garage and it will work better.

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