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You're basically asking how to convert an unconditioned space into a conditioned space. This requires opening up the space to the existing conditioned part of the house and closing it off to the unconditioned space. I challenge your belief that it isn't vented. I suspect that it is vented - there will (or should) be some kind of air gap between the top ...


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While you might not think you will have a high load now, if you're going to go through the effort of running cable, why not do it right? What if you or a future owner were to ever use the garage as a shop and have some tools that draw more than 13A? If it's not your house, consult the owner, and if you're willing to take on the cost, I can't imagine why ...


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As this is, as you suggest, effectively a long extension cable, as long as you don't exceed the 13A maximum that you can draw from the single plug, there is little to stop you doing what you suggest (though it would be prudent to check that you will have enough "headroom" in your proposed cable in terms of voltage drop and earth loop impedance). While you ...


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Yes, insulate above and below to the best of your ability. Do not shove anything into the conduit or your going to have one pissed off electrician next time something needs doing. The 14in x ~2ft hole (the sub panel) in the insulation is negligible compared to any air infiltration that may be coming from outside. IE, the garage rolling door, poor ...


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I'm no code expert but as I understand it, yes if you use fire caulk as per exception #2 in 713.3.1 and you are going to surface mount the switch on the drywall in the garage. 713.3 Fire-resistance-rated walls. Penetrations into or through fire walls, fire barriers, smoke barrier walls and fire partitions shall comply with Sections 713.3.1 through 713.3.3. ...


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For a latex paint (water soluble) I added water and actually used a hand blender for 3-4 minutes, the result was an even, smooth paint. The paint was completely granulated before. Whether or not it stays on the wood will be determined in a couple of years... EDIT: The paint had frozen completely at least twice!


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Vapor barrier goes on the warm side of the insulation (averaged year round) If, on average, the garage is warmer than the house, vapor barrier goes on the garage side. If, on average, it's cooler, it goes on the house side. If you rarely close the windows, you probably don't need one at all. Penetrations should be sealed with something like acoustic ...



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