New answers tagged garage
Can't say what's causing your garage door problems but there is a product I bought that can close the door after a set amount of time being open automatically. For $50, it was a small price to pay for some peace of mind and the install was pretty quick too. If interested, you can see it on amazon at: http://amzn.to/RN4Lxi
If you can settle for a 50amp feeder, not only is it the next smaller size wire, but it could mean the difference between 3/4" and 1" conduit. That's a bigger difference than you might realize right now.
Pull 4 conductors (2 ungrounded (hot), 1 grounded (neutral), 1 grounding) (250.32(B)(1)). Grounded (neutral) and grounding bus must be separate at sub-panel (250.32(B)(1)). No need for a GFCI breaker in the main panel, unless your local code requires it. A grounding electrode is required at the second structure (250.32(A)).
You're in conduit, use individual wires - they are cheaper, they pull easier, and the conduit fill on cables is terrible. Typically we shoot for less than 3% voltage drop at rated current. Less drop is OK. I'm fairly sure you need 6Ga wire minimum for a 60 Amp feed - given a short 30 foot run, this is also probably perfectly adequate. I'm getting 1.8% drop ...
All conduit has a fill rating (which equates to 40 % of the free area full of wire, unless there are only 1 or two wires - in practice, less fill is better - the full-rated fill is VERY hard to pull into conduit. That is slightly different for different type conduits due to the different actual size of the hole in the different types of conduit. There are ...
You may be able to get it pulled up with coarnstarch. then spray the oil stain with hot water, squirt with Dawn dishwashing liquid, and add more hot water to create suds. Next, scrub the oil stains with a nylon bristle brush.
You're basically asking how to build a free-standing deck. According to this calculator, you need 2x12 joists on 12 inch centers. If you don't already have one, I suggest buying a deck building book from the hardware store. It will tell you exactly what you need to know.
There are stucco crack patch products out there. For lack of a better explanation, they are essentially sanded caulk: Use that to fill in the cracks, then paint over with proper stucco paint (breathable latex).
Or: A completely different approach to the problem. If the compressor is really the only thing driving you to want more power in the garage, and the electrical service in the garage, as it stands, would suit your needs adequately otherwise...move the compressor. Build it a "doghouse" in the yard where you can run a dedicated (and shorter) electrical line ...
tl;dr - if you are going to all the work, and a subpanel, you presumably want a bit more than 20 amps (think it needs to be 30 amps minimum for code these days, and 60 amps is probably better.) You'll have to dig a ditch. At that point, my opinionated opinion is that you should go ahead and put in conduit, and an additional conduit for any current or future ...
If you look at the torsion spring bar at either end you will see a fitting with four holes perpendicular to one another and perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the torsion bar. Sometimes this fitting is at the center of the bar rather than the ends but it's on there somewhere. If you can find two pieces of steel pipe or socket wrench with a long handle ...
Unless you know how to unload the tension on the torsion spring, this is not safe for you to do yourself. There are plenty of videos on the internet that show you how to do it, but be aware that the consequences ofusing the wrong tools or doing it wrong will likely result in serious injury, such as broken bones or amputated limbs, or death. You should ...
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