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16

You'd do this like you would add any other new window. Find the studs, choose a location, cut square holes in the drywall on both sides, cut sections out of the intervening studs to make room for the new window, and frame the new window properly like this: Then you would flash the rough opening's sill with self-adhering membrane and install the window ...


9

Since the transformer says "Gaslight Conversions", that's a pretty strong clue that it's part of a lighting system from Gaslight Conversions, located in St Paul MN, which also matches what's written on the transformer. If you've ruled out all of your exterior lighting, it may be leftover from a low voltage lighting system that was replaced but never fully ...


5

I'm not sure it makes sense to spend money and effort retrofitting something on a 30 year old opener. How much longer do you think it will really last? New garage door openers can be had for around $150 and in addition to the "rolling code" remotes will include several other benefits like an electric eye safety sensor, auto-reversing contact sensor, vacation ...


5

Anything with sensitive electronics is more susceptible to damage due to power surges. Receptacles don't have any electronics (unless they're GFCI or AFCI receptacles), and it's doubtful that a shop light has any either. If a surge is not large enough to trip the magnetic protection, or long enough to trip the thermal protection, then the breaker will not ...


4

The easiest is to get an extension cord for the low voltage cable on the AC adapter. Most likely the adapter comes equipped with a 2.1mm or 2.5mm center pin barrel type power plug. Extension cords for these are readily available. One would look like this: The extension cable would allow you to power the router from within the same room from an electrical ...


4

I assume you are in the USA. The heater is probably a pure 240V load with no need for the neutral (white) wire. you should simply cap the white wire with a wire nut and tuck it back into the electrical box.


4

As I suspected, the code you're referencing is from the National Fuel Gas Code. I was not able to find anything in National Electrical Code, or International Residential Code that mentions this in the context of electric appliances. National Fuel Gas Code 2002 Chapter 8 Equipment Installation 8.1 General. 8.1.10 Installation in Residential ...


3

Your panel is a 12/24, so every space can have a tandem or even quad breaker. That's what 12 space, 24 circuit means. In the panel schedule you may even see a line or dotted line through the middle of each breaker space. A single 20A breaker can certainly have all that on it, but the question is should it? It all depends on what you will be running ...


3

Drywall is typically used when a finished garage is called out on the plans. Even though drywall prices have risen quite a bit in recent times it is probably still the most cost effective material to close up open studs and ceiling joists in a garage.


3

You're basically asking how to convert an unconditioned space into a conditioned space. This requires opening up the space to the existing conditioned part of the house and closing it off to the unconditioned space. I challenge your belief that it isn't vented. I suspect that it is vented - there will (or should) be some kind of air gap between the top ...


3

Your local building code requirements hold sway, and I encourage you to review them prior to planning. That being said, many building codes specify a garage/home separation, but fall somewhat short of requiring a an actual fire rating. The separation has some requirements that provide more fire protection and exhaust protection than typical living space ...


3

I think I am accurate in saying this.... As long as you keep the drywall layer at the house/garage, and do not damage it in any way (screws ok) you will not compromise the fire rating of the original sheetrock. The drywall at that wall is a requirement for fire safety, it is typically a thicker, 5/8", and fiberglass reinforced to withstand a potential fire ...


3

You can cut expansion joints with something like this: This is a walk-behind concrete saw that can be rented at most rental centers (I know that home depot has them). After the joints are cut, fill them with a good polyurethane caulking. I would wait until after you cut the joints before filling the existing cracks, as it's likely the work you're doing ...


3

Why not simply construct a series of 8' long workbenches? This will give you more flexibility later on, if you need to deploy them differently (e.g. in an "L" shape instead of end-to-end. HTH.


2

I'll try to take your questions one-by-one. You have two easy options for leveling the chalk line. The first would be to use a carpenter's level; you'd measure 34" from the floor at one end of the bench-to-be, then hold a long 2x4 to the studs with one end right at the mark. Lay your level on the top of the 2x4 and tip the 2x4's other (not at a mark) end ...


2

The lock barrel is known as a Euro cylinder (there's a photo on this page showing Euro cylinder locks booth side and end on). The numbers XX/YY relate to dimensions (in millimetres) of the lock when viewed from the side. The dimensions are measured from one face of the lock to the fixing hole in the centre, then from the hole to the other face. You can ...


2

I just did closed-cell spray foam in my attached garage. There is a bedroom above (to the left of the I-beam in the photo), while the front sloping part is a hot roof (see Do I need to add roof vents if I close off a small attic space in the garage? for detail/pics). In your case, you should decide if you want the attic space to be 'conditioned' ...


2

Particularly if you have an oversized boiler already, extending the hot water makes more sense. It's not terribly difficult to insulate it properly - especially for a mere 10 or 15 feet. Use 1" PEX and build an XPS (waterproof styrofoam insulation sheets) box, keeping the lines (supply and return) separated with insulation, polyurethane foam it to fill and ...


2

Stapled to the sides of joists, or through drilled holes, is fine in this installation.


2

What you want is a HomeLink Conversion Kit. This will replace the wireless receiver of your old garage door opener. Or wire up like a button. If the wireless receiver is built in to your opener then you will need to find a way to disable it, otherwise someone will still be able to send the dipswitch code and activate your opener.


2

You can use a diamond blade to cut drainage channels. Noisy and messy, but it works. You can (for reasonable sums) either rent a concrete saw or purchase a diamond blade for an angle grinder, as you prefer. You can purchase a concrete saw, of course, but the sums appear unreasonable to me for a one-time project. With such a limited amount of water (no ...


2

List of issues: Getting the space conditioned. This may be really easy or insanely difficult. Depends on what is on the other walls of bathroom and where your ducts are in your house. Getting electric. Should be no big deal. Getting water. Might be a bigger deal than electric but probably not a huge thing. Getting exit plumbing. Given that the ...


2

This is fine as long as they can be joined end-to-end, are identified for through-wiring, or are listed and marked as a raceway, as per NEC 410.64. Just keep in mind that end-to-end joinable luminaires are limited to one branch circuit (that must feed one or more luminaire(s) in the set) in addition to the circuit that is feeding the remaining luminaire(s). ...


2

It is only an issue if it is load bearing. If it is load bearing then you cannot have part of your footing floating (in the first picture it definitely looks like the bottom plate is outside of concrete). Period. Is it a thing that has to get fix right away? No. Engineer will give you advice on fix. It is just a wall though and shouldn't be too costly. ...


2

8' benches are worth considering for a couple of reasons: the sheet goods you use on top will be that length. You'll get a slightly shorter span between legs, which will lead to more stiffness. That said, if you need 132", there are a few options: find a better lumber supplier. (Don't know where you are, but you should be able to find a lumberyard ...


1

Verifying that the door operates correctly and without excessive force with the opener disconnected is a required first step. If the door jams, the opener cannot be expected to work well. Given a mechanically sound door system that operates properly by hand, odd behavior in "modern" (25 years or less, perhaps) garage door openers is almost always a sign of ...


1

You can buy most common parts separately. Replace the part rather than have it welded. Ask at your local hardware store (NOT "big-box" store) for a handyman reference, someone familiar with garage doors. Garage door companies will almost always recommend a new door. Hey, while you are at your local "mom and pop" store, why don't you pick up a few items and ...


1

The vapor barrier goes on the heated side of the insulation, or in your case, the side facing the bathroom. If the garage itself is conditioned space, there may only be a vapor barrier on the exterior walls and the insulation behind the bathroom would be for sound. Note that the craft paper backing on insulation is considered a vapor barrier.


1

It depends what you mean by "cables". As long as it is a data cord (not power) and the opening is fire sealed, it is fine. What I do is use a cutoff saw (hack saw is fine) to cut a length of PVC pipe. Use a hole saw to cut through the drywall. Then, caulk the PVC pipe to the dry wall. It makes a perfectly clean tunnel through the wall. You can feed data ...


1

There are a lot of questions to ask before an answer can be given: What climate are you in? Is the garage heated or insulated? Is the hot water heater gas, electric, oil, solar, nuclear, gerbil-powered? Are going to do this yourself? You can probably get some pretty good, free advice on this by calling one or two plumbers to come out and give you a quote ...



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