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16

You'd do this like you would add any other new window. Find the studs, choose a location, cut square holes in the drywall on both sides, cut sections out of the intervening studs to make room for the new window, and frame the new window properly like this: Then you would flash the rough opening's sill with self-adhering membrane and install the window ...


12

Looks badly done - grass should have been removed before paving, grade fixed if needed so water won't run from driveway into garage. For a crude fix, place a slot drain right up against the garage to divert water, and infill with lots of "cold patch" to make the slope inbetween as smooth as possible, rather than this huge drop at the end of the pavement. ...


9

Since the transformer says "Gaslight Conversions", that's a pretty strong clue that it's part of a lighting system from Gaslight Conversions, located in St Paul MN, which also matches what's written on the transformer. If you've ruled out all of your exterior lighting, it may be leftover from a low voltage lighting system that was replaced but never fully ...


6

Anything with sensitive electronics is more susceptible to damage due to power surges. Receptacles don't have any electronics (unless they're GFCI or AFCI receptacles), and it's doubtful that a shop light has any either. If a surge is not large enough to trip the magnetic protection, or long enough to trip the thermal protection, then the breaker will not ...


5

I assume you are in the USA. The heater is probably a pure 240V load with no need for the neutral (white) wire. you should simply cap the white wire with a wire nut and tuck it back into the electrical box.


5

I'm not sure it makes sense to spend money and effort retrofitting something on a 30 year old opener. How much longer do you think it will really last? New garage door openers can be had for around $150 and in addition to the "rolling code" remotes will include several other benefits like an electric eye safety sensor, auto-reversing contact sensor, vacation ...


4

The easiest is to get an extension cord for the low voltage cable on the AC adapter. Most likely the adapter comes equipped with a 2.1mm or 2.5mm center pin barrel type power plug. Extension cords for these are readily available. One would look like this: The extension cable would allow you to power the router from within the same room from an electrical ...


4

As I suspected, the code you're referencing is from the National Fuel Gas Code. I was not able to find anything in National Electrical Code, or International Residential Code that mentions this in the context of electric appliances. National Fuel Gas Code 2002 Chapter 8 Equipment Installation 8.1 General. 8.1.10 Installation in Residential ...


4

There's a few ways to do this, though service conductors cannot pass through another building, so all the methods will have to avoid that. One option would be to install a service disconnect, and then branch from that to the panels. With this method, you'll handle all the grounding and bonding of the neutral in the disconnect. So you'll install 4 wire ...


3

Your local building code requirements hold sway, and I encourage you to review them prior to planning. That being said, many building codes specify a garage/home separation, but fall somewhat short of requiring a an actual fire rating. The separation has some requirements that provide more fire protection and exhaust protection than typical living space ...


3

Your panel is a 12/24, so every space can have a tandem or even quad breaker. That's what 12 space, 24 circuit means. In the panel schedule you may even see a line or dotted line through the middle of each breaker space. A single 20A breaker can certainly have all that on it, but the question is should it? It all depends on what you will be running ...


3

Drywall is typically used when a finished garage is called out on the plans. Even though drywall prices have risen quite a bit in recent times it is probably still the most cost effective material to close up open studs and ceiling joists in a garage.


3

I think I am accurate in saying this.... As long as you keep the drywall layer at the house/garage, and do not damage it in any way (screws ok) you will not compromise the fire rating of the original sheetrock. The drywall at that wall is a requirement for fire safety, it is typically a thicker, 5/8", and fiberglass reinforced to withstand a potential fire ...


3

You can cut expansion joints with something like this: This is a walk-behind concrete saw that can be rented at most rental centers (I know that home depot has them). After the joints are cut, fill them with a good polyurethane caulking. I would wait until after you cut the joints before filling the existing cracks, as it's likely the work you're doing ...


3

Why not simply construct a series of 8' long workbenches? This will give you more flexibility later on, if you need to deploy them differently (e.g. in an "L" shape instead of end-to-end. HTH.


2

The lock barrel is known as a Euro cylinder (there's a photo on this page showing Euro cylinder locks booth side and end on). The numbers XX/YY relate to dimensions (in millimetres) of the lock when viewed from the side. The dimensions are measured from one face of the lock to the fixing hole in the centre, then from the hole to the other face. You can ...


2

I just did closed-cell spray foam in my attached garage. There is a bedroom above (to the left of the I-beam in the photo), while the front sloping part is a hot roof (see Do I need to add roof vents if I close off a small attic space in the garage? for detail/pics). In your case, you should decide if you want the attic space to be 'conditioned' ...


2

Particularly if you have an oversized boiler already, extending the hot water makes more sense. It's not terribly difficult to insulate it properly - especially for a mere 10 or 15 feet. Use 1" PEX and build an XPS (waterproof styrofoam insulation sheets) box, keeping the lines (supply and return) separated with insulation, polyurethane foam it to fill and ...


2

Stapled to the sides of joists, or through drilled holes, is fine in this installation.


2

What you want is a HomeLink Conversion Kit. This will replace the wireless receiver of your old garage door opener. Or wire up like a button. If the wireless receiver is built in to your opener then you will need to find a way to disable it, otherwise someone will still be able to send the dipswitch code and activate your opener.


2

You can use a diamond blade to cut drainage channels. Noisy and messy, but it works. You can (for reasonable sums) either rent a concrete saw or purchase a diamond blade for an angle grinder, as you prefer. You can purchase a concrete saw, of course, but the sums appear unreasonable to me for a one-time project. With such a limited amount of water (no ...


2

List of issues: Getting the space conditioned. This may be really easy or insanely difficult. Depends on what is on the other walls of bathroom and where your ducts are in your house. Getting electric. Should be no big deal. Getting water. Might be a bigger deal than electric but probably not a huge thing. Getting exit plumbing. Given that the ...


2

This is fine as long as they can be joined end-to-end, are identified for through-wiring, or are listed and marked as a raceway, as per NEC 410.64. Just keep in mind that end-to-end joinable luminaires are limited to one branch circuit (that must feed one or more luminaire(s) in the set) in addition to the circuit that is feeding the remaining luminaire(s). ...


2

It is only an issue if it is load bearing. If it is load bearing then you cannot have part of your footing floating (in the first picture it definitely looks like the bottom plate is outside of concrete). Period. Is it a thing that has to get fix right away? No. Engineer will give you advice on fix. It is just a wall though and shouldn't be too costly. ...


2

8' benches are worth considering for a couple of reasons: the sheet goods you use on top will be that length. You'll get a slightly shorter span between legs, which will lead to more stiffness. That said, if you need 132", there are a few options: find a better lumber supplier. (Don't know where you are, but you should be able to find a lumberyard ...


2

2x's laying flat as opposed to on edge are going to bend or break when weight is suspended from it over time. The longer the board the faster it will compress or fail. To remedy this problem you must add support to the existing framing members. I think the simplest way is to install additional 2 x 4's (on edge) attached against the edge of the original 2 x ...


1

First off I seriously doubt that the lock cylinder pulling out like that is anything even close to its normal operation. In fact it is an indication that the lock itself is seriously broken. Normal behavior for a cheap lock like that is to have two positions (locked and unlocked) where the key can pull out of its slot in either position. However the lock ...


1

Which means, for all practical purposes, the actual water heater should be elevated approximately 12-14" above the garage floor. The burner/ ignition flame is likely 4"-6" above the base of the water heater. Adding the two together gives the required 18". Code doesn't require the gas water heater itself to be elevated 18"' just the burner/ ignition ...


1

In that climate, the most energy efficient method is a heat pump. An added bonus is that it can air condition during hot times, something that is presumably a requirement for an office space or guest room in SoCal. Heat pumps come in all kinds of flavors, but those designed for and often used in commercial and residential space should be plenty quiet. ...


1

In case anyone else wants to know: I went and bought a 330 Volt 54-63 uf capacitor and installed it. Not only did I not electrocute myself, I fixed it. It cost me < $7 - not too bad.



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