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17

You'd do this like you would add any other new window. Find the studs, choose a location, cut square holes in the drywall on both sides, cut sections out of the intervening studs to make room for the new window, and frame the new window properly like this: Then you would flash the rough opening's sill with self-adhering membrane and install the window ...


9

Since the transformer says "Gaslight Conversions", that's a pretty strong clue that it's part of a lighting system from Gaslight Conversions, located in St Paul MN, which also matches what's written on the transformer. If you've ruled out all of your exterior lighting, it may be leftover from a low voltage lighting system that was replaced but never fully ...


5

I'm not sure it makes sense to spend money and effort retrofitting something on a 30 year old opener. How much longer do you think it will really last? New garage door openers can be had for around $150 and in addition to the "rolling code" remotes will include several other benefits like an electric eye safety sensor, auto-reversing contact sensor, vacation ...


4

The easiest is to get an extension cord for the low voltage cable on the AC adapter. Most likely the adapter comes equipped with a 2.1mm or 2.5mm center pin barrel type power plug. Extension cords for these are readily available. One would look like this: The extension cable would allow you to power the router from within the same room from an electrical ...


4

I assume you are in the USA. The heater is probably a pure 240V load with no need for the neutral (white) wire. you should simply cap the white wire with a wire nut and tuck it back into the electrical box.


4

As I suspected, the code you're referencing is from the National Fuel Gas Code. I was not able to find anything in National Electrical Code, or International Residential Code that mentions this in the context of electric appliances. National Fuel Gas Code 2002 Chapter 8 Equipment Installation 8.1 General. 8.1.10 Installation in Residential ...


3

Your panel is a 12/24, so every space can have a tandem or even quad breaker. That's what 12 space, 24 circuit means. In the panel schedule you may even see a line or dotted line through the middle of each breaker space. A single 20A breaker can certainly have all that on it, but the question is should it? It all depends on what you will be running ...


3

Drywall is typically used when a finished garage is called out on the plans. Even though drywall prices have risen quite a bit in recent times it is probably still the most cost effective material to close up open studs and ceiling joists in a garage.


3

You're basically asking how to convert an unconditioned space into a conditioned space. This requires opening up the space to the existing conditioned part of the house and closing it off to the unconditioned space. I challenge your belief that it isn't vented. I suspect that it is vented - there will (or should) be some kind of air gap between the top ...


3

Your local building code requirements hold sway, and I encourage you to review them prior to planning. That being said, many building codes specify a garage/home separation, but fall somewhat short of requiring a an actual fire rating. The separation has some requirements that provide more fire protection and exhaust protection than typical living space ...


3

I think I am accurate in saying this.... As long as you keep the drywall layer at the house/garage, and do not damage it in any way (screws ok) you will not compromise the fire rating of the original sheetrock. The drywall at that wall is a requirement for fire safety, it is typically a thicker, 5/8", and fiberglass reinforced to withstand a potential fire ...


3

You can cut expansion joints with something like this: This is a walk-behind concrete saw that can be rented at most rental centers (I know that home depot has them). After the joints are cut, fill them with a good polyurethane caulking. I would wait until after you cut the joints before filling the existing cracks, as it's likely the work you're doing ...


2

It sounds like what you want is a sub-panel (http://www.wikihow.com/Add-a-Subpanel). You will need to check for local regulations pertaining to exactly what you need to install, but all of the materials should be available at the local big box store. Also, make sure that you size the breaker at the main panel correctly (you mention 2-4 15 amp breakers, ...


2

You or your contractor have gone about this backwards. The first step is to determine your electrical requirements, including a reasonable amount of future expansion. Then you can size the wire & breaker together to meet those requirements.


2

I'll try to take your questions one-by-one. You have two easy options for leveling the chalk line. The first would be to use a carpenter's level; you'd measure 34" from the floor at one end of the bench-to-be, then hold a long 2x4 to the studs with one end right at the mark. Lay your level on the top of the 2x4 and tip the 2x4's other (not at a mark) end ...


2

Outdoor carpet ~$6 a square yard. Most people think of the good ol' green stuff, but there are many styles to choose from nowadays.


2

The lock barrel is known as a Euro cylinder (there's a photo on this page showing Euro cylinder locks booth side and end on). The numbers XX/YY relate to dimensions (in millimetres) of the lock when viewed from the side. The dimensions are measured from one face of the lock to the fixing hole in the centre, then from the hole to the other face. You can ...


2

Particularly if you have an oversized boiler already, extending the hot water makes more sense. It's not terribly difficult to insulate it properly - especially for a mere 10 or 15 feet. Use 1" PEX and build an XPS (waterproof styrofoam insulation sheets) box, keeping the lines (supply and return) separated with insulation, polyurethane foam it to fill and ...


2

I just did closed-cell spray foam in my attached garage. There is a bedroom above (to the left of the I-beam in the photo), while the front sloping part is a hot roof (see Do I need to add roof vents if I close off a small attic space in the garage? for detail/pics). In your case, you should decide if you want the attic space to be 'conditioned' ...


2

Stapled to the sides of joists, or through drilled holes, is fine in this installation.


2

What you want is a HomeLink Conversion Kit. This will replace the wireless receiver of your old garage door opener. Or wire up like a button. If the wireless receiver is built in to your opener then you will need to find a way to disable it, otherwise someone will still be able to send the dipswitch code and activate your opener.


2

You can use a diamond blade to cut drainage channels. Noisy and messy, but it works. You can (for reasonable sums) either rent a concrete saw or purchase a diamond blade for an angle grinder, as you prefer. You can purchase a concrete saw, of course, but the sums appear unreasonable to me for a one-time project. With such a limited amount of water (no ...


2

List of issues: Getting the space conditioned. This may be really easy or insanely difficult. Depends on what is on the other walls of bathroom and where your ducts are in your house. Getting electric. Should be no big deal. Getting water. Might be a bigger deal than electric but probably not a huge thing. Getting exit plumbing. Given that the ...


2

This is fine as long as they can be joined end-to-end, are identified for through-wiring, or are listed and marked as a raceway, as per NEC 410.64. Just keep in mind that end-to-end joinable luminaires are limited to one branch circuit (that must feed one or more luminaire(s) in the set) in addition to the circuit that is feeding the remaining luminaire(s). ...


2

It is only an issue if it is load bearing. If it is load bearing then you cannot have part of your footing floating (in the first picture it definitely looks like the bottom plate is outside of concrete). Period. Is it a thing that has to get fix right away? No. Engineer will give you advice on fix. It is just a wall though and shouldn't be too costly. ...


1

It depends what you mean by "cables". As long as it is a data cord (not power) and the opening is fire sealed, it is fine. What I do is use a cutoff saw (hack saw is fine) to cut a length of PVC pipe. Use a hole saw to cut through the drywall. Then, caulk the PVC pipe to the dry wall. It makes a perfectly clean tunnel through the wall. You can feed data ...


1

There are a lot of questions to ask before an answer can be given: What climate are you in? Is the garage heated or insulated? Is the hot water heater gas, electric, oil, solar, nuclear, gerbil-powered? Are going to do this yourself? You can probably get some pretty good, free advice on this by calling one or two plumbers to come out and give you a quote ...


1

Depends on how much load the rest of the house is putting on the service at the same time... but if the total demand stays under what your service is rated for, and you use wiring that can handle the 50A demand, you theoretically should be OK. Run the numbers. (My electric drier plugs into a 220V outlet fed by a pair of 30A breakers, and I have only 100A ...


1

An interlock kit would certainly work, and be safe and legal. What's nice about them is that you can choose what is going to run before you connect the generator. Also, in cases like yours you can alternate loads so that you can run critical and non-critical loads, albeit not at the same time. You CANNOT, as you already know, connect a generator to a ...



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