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17

You'd do this like you would add any other new window. Find the studs, choose a location, cut square holes in the drywall on both sides, cut sections out of the intervening studs to make room for the new window, and frame the new window properly like this: Then you would flash the rough opening's sill with self-adhering membrane and install the window ...


9

Since the transformer says "Gaslight Conversions", that's a pretty strong clue that it's part of a lighting system from Gaslight Conversions, located in St Paul MN, which also matches what's written on the transformer. If you've ruled out all of your exterior lighting, it may be leftover from a low voltage lighting system that was replaced but never fully ...


6

Unless you know how to unload the tension on the torsion spring, this is not safe for you to do yourself. There are plenty of videos on the internet that show you how to do it, but be aware that the consequences ofusing the wrong tools or doing it wrong will likely result in serious injury, such as broken bones or amputated limbs, or death. You should ...


6

You may be able to rig up something whether the compressor-side air intake and exhaust are piped outside, but the efficiency will be low and you may risk burning out the compressor by working it too hard. If you want something you can install in a small opening, you might consider wheeled portable AC units which come with a flexible duct. If you're still ...


5

I'm not sure it makes sense to spend money and effort retrofitting something on a 30 year old opener. How much longer do you think it will really last? New garage door openers can be had for around $150 and in addition to the "rolling code" remotes will include several other benefits like an electric eye safety sensor, auto-reversing contact sensor, vacation ...


4

The easiest is to get an extension cord for the low voltage cable on the AC adapter. Most likely the adapter comes equipped with a 2.1mm or 2.5mm center pin barrel type power plug. Extension cords for these are readily available. One would look like this: The extension cable would allow you to power the router from within the same room from an electrical ...


4

I assume you are in the USA. The heater is probably a pure 240V load with no need for the neutral (white) wire. you should simply cap the white wire with a wire nut and tuck it back into the electrical box.


4

As I suspected, the code you're referencing is from the National Fuel Gas Code. I was not able to find anything in National Electrical Code, or International Residential Code that mentions this in the context of electric appliances. National Fuel Gas Code 2002 Chapter 8 Equipment Installation 8.1 General. 8.1.10 Installation in Residential ...


3

All conduit has a fill rating (which equates to 40 % of the free area full of wire, unless there are only 1 or two wires - in practice, less fill is better - the full-rated fill is VERY hard to pull into conduit. That is slightly different for different type conduits due to the different actual size of the hole in the different types of conduit. There are ...


3

You're basically asking how to convert an unconditioned space into a conditioned space. This requires opening up the space to the existing conditioned part of the house and closing it off to the unconditioned space. I challenge your belief that it isn't vented. I suspect that it is vented - there will (or should) be some kind of air gap between the top ...


3

I would drill a slightly larger hole and run the wire thru pvc conduit. It will protect the wire from accidental damage from a weedwacker, lawnmower etc. I think look cleaner and more professional.


3

Your panel is a 12/24, so every space can have a tandem or even quad breaker. That's what 12 space, 24 circuit means. In the panel schedule you may even see a line or dotted line through the middle of each breaker space. A single 20A breaker can certainly have all that on it, but the question is should it? It all depends on what you will be running ...


3

Drywall is typically used when a finished garage is called out on the plans. Even though drywall prices have risen quite a bit in recent times it is probably still the most cost effective material to close up open studs and ceiling joists in a garage.


3

Your local building code requirements hold sway, and I encourage you to review them prior to planning. That being said, many building codes specify a garage/home separation, but fall somewhat short of requiring a an actual fire rating. The separation has some requirements that provide more fire protection and exhaust protection than typical living space ...


3

I think I am accurate in saying this.... As long as you keep the drywall layer at the house/garage, and do not damage it in any way (screws ok) you will not compromise the fire rating of the original sheetrock. The drywall at that wall is a requirement for fire safety, it is typically a thicker, 5/8", and fiberglass reinforced to withstand a potential fire ...


2

The way you suggested will be fine. On the exterior, make sure to leave a drip loop in the wire in order to prevent water from running down the cable. Drill the hole high enough so that standing water next to the foundation won't leak into the hole.


2

It sounds like what you want is a sub-panel (http://www.wikihow.com/Add-a-Subpanel). You will need to check for local regulations pertaining to exactly what you need to install, but all of the materials should be available at the local big box store. Also, make sure that you size the breaker at the main panel correctly (you mention 2-4 15 amp breakers, ...


2

You or your contractor have gone about this backwards. The first step is to determine your electrical requirements, including a reasonable amount of future expansion. Then you can size the wire & breaker together to meet those requirements.


2

You're in conduit, use individual wires - they are cheaper, they pull easier, and the conduit fill on cables is terrible. Typically we shoot for less than 3% voltage drop at rated current. Less drop is OK. I'm fairly sure you need 6Ga wire minimum for a 60 Amp feed - given a short 30 foot run, this is also probably perfectly adequate. I'm getting 1.8% drop ...


2

Outdoor carpet ~$6 a square yard. Most people think of the good ol' green stuff, but there are many styles to choose from nowadays.


2

I'll try to take your questions one-by-one. You have two easy options for leveling the chalk line. The first would be to use a carpenter's level; you'd measure 34" from the floor at one end of the bench-to-be, then hold a long 2x4 to the studs with one end right at the mark. Lay your level on the top of the 2x4 and tip the 2x4's other (not at a mark) end ...


2

The lock barrel is known as a Euro cylinder (there's a photo on this page showing Euro cylinder locks booth side and end on). The numbers XX/YY relate to dimensions (in millimetres) of the lock when viewed from the side. The dimensions are measured from one face of the lock to the fixing hole in the centre, then from the hole to the other face. You can ...


2

Particularly if you have an oversized boiler already, extending the hot water makes more sense. It's not terribly difficult to insulate it properly - especially for a mere 10 or 15 feet. Use 1" PEX and build an XPS (waterproof styrofoam insulation sheets) box, keeping the lines (supply and return) separated with insulation, polyurethane foam it to fill and ...


2

I just did closed-cell spray foam in my attached garage. There is a bedroom above (to the left of the I-beam in the photo), while the front sloping part is a hot roof (see Do I need to add roof vents if I close off a small attic space in the garage? for detail/pics). In your case, you should decide if you want the attic space to be 'conditioned' ...


2

Stapled to the sides of joists, or through drilled holes, is fine in this installation.


2

What you want is a HomeLink Conversion Kit. This will replace the wireless receiver of your old garage door opener. Or wire up like a button. If the wireless receiver is built in to your opener then you will need to find a way to disable it, otherwise someone will still be able to send the dipswitch code and activate your opener.


2

You can use a diamond blade to cut drainage channels. Noisy and messy, but it works. You can (for reasonable sums) either rent a concrete saw or purchase a diamond blade for an angle grinder, as you prefer. You can purchase a concrete saw, of course, but the sums appear unreasonable to me for a one-time project. With such a limited amount of water (no ...


2

List of issues: Getting the space conditioned. This may be really easy or insanely difficult. Depends on what is on the other walls of bathroom and where your ducts are in your house. Getting electric. Should be no big deal. Getting water. Might be a bigger deal than electric but probably not a huge thing. Getting exit plumbing. Given that the ...


1

I have used Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield on a few concrete applications and I have to say it may be the "cheap"/non-fancy alternative but it has handled soaking into the concrete (instead of other paints that only sat on top of concrete) to provide a little more protection. I have bought the two part epoxy speckle kits and have never been happy after a few ...


1

This one is simple, perhaps surprisingly. Buy a gallon can of mineral spirits (paint thinner), NOT the water-based type, but real MINERAL SPIRITS. Taking whatever reasonable precautions are necessary to protect your eyes & hands (I personally feel comfortable working with bare hands), wet down a rag thoroughly with it and scrub the floor. The mineral ...



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