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6

You may be able to rig up something whether the compressor-side air intake and exhaust are piped outside, but the efficiency will be low and you may risk burning out the compressor by working it too hard. If you want something you can install in a small opening, you might consider wheeled portable AC units which come with a flexible duct. If you're still ...


6

Unless you know how to unload the tension on the torsion spring, this is not safe for you to do yourself. There are plenty of videos on the internet that show you how to do it, but be aware that the consequences ofusing the wrong tools or doing it wrong will likely result in serious injury, such as broken bones or amputated limbs, or death. You should ...


5

Metro does not seem to sell an appropriate foot leveler. But a common carriage bolt will fit just fine. The rounded head compensates for the slope far better than the flat factory foot, and you can file the raised numbers off easily: Or find a 3/8" 16 pitch "Combination Leg Equalizer" such as the Rockler #24315, which will spread the load more evenly: ...


4

You'll need to check your local codes. In the US, most building code sections begin with a list of definitions, and I assume it's the same elsewhere. If the difference between a shed and a garage is legally significant then they probably define it. It could be based on size, intended use, access to utilities, proximity to other buildings, access to a ...


3

All conduit has a fill rating (which equates to 40 % of the free area full of wire, unless there are only 1 or two wires - in practice, less fill is better - the full-rated fill is VERY hard to pull into conduit. That is slightly different for different type conduits due to the different actual size of the hole in the different types of conduit. There are ...


3

if you really only need to be able to operate this from inside the garage door, a simple sliding lock may fit the bill. they install on the door and the bar slides into a hole on the garage door track.


3

I would insulate it and drywall it. You are already losing some heat from the house walls and the second floor into the garage. If you insulate it, your garage will be warmer - at least, after the door has been closed for a while - and you will lose less heat. It won't be super-warm, but it will help. You do not need 5/8" drywall for the garage walls. In ...


3

My answer is almost always the same when talking about garage subpanels. 60 ampere double pole breaker in the main panel. 6 AWG copper wire (x4) for a run less than 75ft., 4 AWG copper wire (x4) for runs less than 150ft. 60 ampere subpanel with 60 ampere main breaker. Unless you're running a whole bunch of stuff at once, a 60 amp panel should serve you ...


3

Yep, the 120 year old houses do make life more interesting (and expensive and/or colder.) Use an air barrier that is NOT a vapor barrier. More commonly known as housewrap. Vapor moves through, but bulk air movement is reduced. For insulating inside the floor joists, either blown-in cellulose (which supposedly has very little issue with vapor, due to having ...


3

I would drill a slightly larger hole and run the wire thru pvc conduit. It will protect the wire from accidental damage from a weedwacker, lawnmower etc. I think look cleaner and more professional.


3

You're basically asking how to convert an unconditioned space into a conditioned space. This requires opening up the space to the existing conditioned part of the house and closing it off to the unconditioned space. I challenge your belief that it isn't vented. I suspect that it is vented - there will (or should) be some kind of air gap between the top ...


2

As recommended by wallyk and yurly, add another circuit or two. There is usually no way to tell exactly how may outlet and switches etc., are on the same circuit. If there is no spare breakers in the breaker panel, use tandem breakers. This will allow two circuits to reside in the same space as one. There are tandem breakers available by all manufacturers, ...


2

If the lock is separate from the handle and turns freely, my guess is the handle is the issue, not the lock. Overhead garage doors almost always latch by extending pins through the tracks on either side of the door. It is likely that one of these just got bound due to expansion, contraction, ice lifting, or whatnot. I'd try a couple things before doing ...


2

The professional service you need is that of a structural engineer, in combination with a contractor or builder. Each professional has a contribution to make and can enhance the work of the other. Internet advice does not suffice for altering structural members in a home. You can get general advice on feasibility by posting photos annotated with ...


2

It sounds like the chain might not be on the sprocket that drives it. Get up on a ladder and look at the top of the unit. You should be able to easily see if the chain is off the sprocket. Try running the opener while you are up there too. If the chain has come off you will need to loosen the chain tension, place the chain back over the sprocket and ...


2

The way you suggested will be fine. On the exterior, make sure to leave a drip loop in the wire in order to prevent water from running down the cable. Drill the hole high enough so that standing water next to the foundation won't leak into the hole.


2

You're in conduit, use individual wires - they are cheaper, they pull easier, and the conduit fill on cables is terrible. Typically we shoot for less than 3% voltage drop at rated current. Less drop is OK. I'm fairly sure you need 6Ga wire minimum for a 60 Amp feed - given a short 30 foot run, this is also probably perfectly adequate. I'm getting 1.8% drop ...


2

You or your contractor have gone about this backwards. The first step is to determine your electrical requirements, including a reasonable amount of future expansion. Then you can size the wire & breaker together to meet those requirements.


2

Outdoor carpet ~$6 a square yard. Most people think of the good ol' green stuff, but there are many styles to choose from nowadays.


1

To determine the number of conductors allowed in a conduit, you can use Table 1, 4, and 5 from chapter 9 of the National Electrical Code. National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 9 Tables If you're pulling more than 2 conductors, you'll only be able to fill the conduit 40%, according to Table 1. To calculate conduit fill: Get the ...


1

If you can settle for a 50amp feeder, not only is it the next smaller size wire, but it could mean the difference between 3/4" and 1" conduit. That's a bigger difference than you might realize right now.


1

Pull 4 conductors (2 ungrounded (hot), 1 grounded (neutral), 1 grounding) (250.32(B)(1)). Grounded (neutral) and grounding bus must be separate at sub-panel (250.32(B)(1)). No need for a GFCI breaker in the main panel, unless your local code requires it. A grounding electrode is required at the second structure (250.32(A)).


1

You're basically asking how to build a free-standing deck. According to this calculator, you need 2x12 joists on 12 inch centers. If you don't already have one, I suggest buying a deck building book from the hardware store. It will tell you exactly what you need to know.


1

There are stucco crack patch products out there. For lack of a better explanation, they are essentially sanded caulk: Use that to fill in the cracks, then paint over with proper stucco paint (breathable latex).


1

Or: A completely different approach to the problem. If the compressor is really the only thing driving you to want more power in the garage, and the electrical service in the garage, as it stands, would suit your needs adequately otherwise...move the compressor. Build it a "doghouse" in the yard where you can run a dedicated (and shorter) electrical line ...


1

tl;dr - if you are going to all the work, and a subpanel, you presumably want a bit more than 20 amps (think it needs to be 30 amps minimum for code these days, and 60 amps is probably better.) You'll have to dig a ditch. At that point, my opinionated opinion is that you should go ahead and put in conduit, and an additional conduit for any current or future ...


1

I think the right answer is to buy a side access door and cut a hole in the wall to install it in. You've just illustrated one reason those are a "good thing" - leaving in a hurry in case of fire is another.


1

I would: Clean out the hole and all the broken drywall. Use drywall screws and screw 2 or 3 cross pieces of strapping across the back side of the hole. Then you can cut a new piece of drywall and fit it to the hole and you have something to screw it to.


1

Your garage drain could go anywhere--it could be tied into your septic system or sewer connection, or it could go to a separate exterior drywell or leach field. It could even head into a sump pit to be pumped out by a sump pump. Its impossible to know without a whole lot more information about your specific circumstance. As to how to unclog it, your best ...


1

My own (not) special blend of herbs and spices. Specifically, 1.5 cups warm-to-hot water (warm water mixes better) .5 cups sugar 1.5 tablespoons 20 Mule Team Borax Mix vigorusly. The method of delivery I used was soaking a cotton ball in the mixture and placing the cotton ball on juice bottle top or something similar, and placing this in (a) strategic ...



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