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You can cut expansion joints with something like this: This is a walk-behind concrete saw that can be rented at most rental centers (I know that home depot has them). After the joints are cut, fill them with a good polyurethane caulking. I would wait until after you cut the joints before filling the existing cracks, as it's likely the work you're doing ...


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List of issues: Getting the space conditioned. This may be really easy or insanely difficult. Depends on what is on the other walls of bathroom and where your ducts are in your house. Getting electric. Should be no big deal. Getting water. Might be a bigger deal than electric but probably not a huge thing. Getting exit plumbing. Given that the ...


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This is fine as long as they can be joined end-to-end, are identified for through-wiring, or are listed and marked as a raceway, as per NEC 410.64. Just keep in mind that end-to-end joinable luminaires are limited to one branch circuit (that must feed one or more luminaire(s) in the set) in addition to the circuit that is feeding the remaining luminaire(s). ...


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It is only an issue if it is load bearing. If it is load bearing then you cannot have part of your footing floating (in the first picture it definitely looks like the bottom plate is outside of concrete). Period. Is it a thing that has to get fix right away? No. Engineer will give you advice on fix. It is just a wall though and shouldn't be too costly. ...


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Yes, that should be perfectly fine - most fluorescent fixtures are built with an application like this in mind (where many can be joined end-to-end - not all of which will be on the same circuit in many cases.)


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We built a bucket truck garage two years ago. It has a 13' ceiling with a 5' stuccoed concrete block wall and ordinary 2"x6" studs above that. And of course the 4:12 pitch roof adds another 2' average height above that. A 15' ceiling leaves a lot of air space overhead to heat before the rest of the garage is comfortable. The garage has a 10'x10' insulated ...



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