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You're basically asking how to convert an unconditioned space into a conditioned space. This requires opening up the space to the existing conditioned part of the house and closing it off to the unconditioned space. I challenge your belief that it isn't vented. I suspect that it is vented - there will (or should) be some kind of air gap between the top ...


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Outdoor carpet ~$6 a square yard. Most people think of the good ol' green stuff, but there are many styles to choose from nowadays.


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I'm no code expert but as I understand it, yes if you use fire caulk as per exception #2 in 713.3.1 and you are going to surface mount the switch on the drywall in the garage. 713.3 Fire-resistance-rated walls. Penetrations into or through fire walls, fire barriers, smoke barrier walls and fire partitions shall comply with Sections 713.3.1 through 713.3.3. ...


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Vapor barrier goes on the warm side of the insulation (averaged year round) If, on average, the garage is warmer than the house, vapor barrier goes on the garage side. If, on average, it's cooler, it goes on the house side. If you rarely close the windows, you probably don't need one at all. Penetrations should be sealed with something like acoustic ...


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I have used Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield on a few concrete applications and I have to say it may be the "cheap"/non-fancy alternative but it has handled soaking into the concrete (instead of other paints that only sat on top of concrete) to provide a little more protection. I have bought the two part epoxy speckle kits and have never been happy after a few ...


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Yes, insulate above and below to the best of your ability. Do not shove anything into the conduit or your going to have one pissed off electrician next time something needs doing. The 14in x ~2ft hole (the sub panel) in the insulation is negligible compared to any air infiltration that may be coming from outside. IE, the garage rolling door, poor ...



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