New answers tagged furniture
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You didn't say how large the entire top was. Over brush snagging looks terrible, unfortunately. If you really want a smooth consistant finish, don't attempt to just touch up the flaw areas. I would sand the top again, making sure the snags are very smooth, then put a thin coat on the entire top. Dust control is the key to doing furniture. If there is minor ...
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Pivot hinges would be an economical solution for good weight bearing. You have to provide a solid top pivot point.
This Stanley has 150 lbs capacity. There are many others of this type, ranging up to 1000 lbs.
Used by all secret bookcase doors.
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Plywood will not sag over time if you intend to use it for the door faces. I recommend birch plywood for not only its hardness but looks. However your hinges and what they are attached to are the big concern in this project. It looks like you've used a low grade pine to build the unit. This is a soft wood and a couple of cabinet hinges screwed into this are ...
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I think plywood would make a good backing for the doors. I would use something with better quality though and not 1/8 " thin junk or "masonite" type products. My take would be to use two layers of 1/4 inch material. One layer can be screwed through the face into the shelves to make a very sturdy structure. The other can then be glued to the first with the ...
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I don't think splitting the doors vertically will make any difference: you'll be cutting the load in half, but also cutting in half the amount of support and the number of hinges. I wouldn't bother.
By the way, you should be careful about the balance of the shelf. If sounds like you're going to be filling the door shelves with DVDs just like the main ...
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I'm curious to know how much a door full of DVDs would weight. I calculate about 60lbs for 9 shelves with 15" inches of DVDs per shelf, 2 DVDs per inch, and .21 lbs per DVD (3.2 oz). And then the weight of door+shelving itself.
There are no cabinet hinges of any design that I know of that will carry that weight. Even half that total weight, say 30lbs DVD ...
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Ply is good in shear, helping the door from racking.
I would use euro style hinges, meant for frameless cabinets. They will transfer the door weight better than simple butt hinges. They also have 3 way adjustments for compensating for sagging over time. Just be sure to start out with a good gap and room for the hinge to adjust up.
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I used adjustable shelving to build my standing desk. I didn't want to commit whole hog to standing, so this let me have the option of lowering it later if I wanted. After your feet adjust in the first month, it's awesome.
I have an 18" bracket for a 24" shelf counter. I have a second smaller bracket with a shelf for the monitor, since you want the ...
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Alternative 1 - These type of designs are popular in europe. I have seen it in France. You will need some strong triangle brackets for the bottom. This will keep the back level.
Then you need to drill some holes on the front of the desk. You will need to then buy thick guage wire. You knot it off on the bottom - tie it to an end cap. On the top you ...
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L Brackets are not going to be a good idea for this type of project. As a minumum you will need to have a triangle type bracket - if you can find something large enough. If you want to avoid any type of legs right at the front edge you could build your own equivalent of a triangle bracket out of wood.
If I was setting out to make a built in unit mounted ...
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That's a pretty heavy table top to cantilever. I'd think about attaching a 2x4 ledger to the wall. That's a horizontal 2x4 screwed directly to the studs.
Then, I'd put 2x4s vertically, between the ledger and the floor at every other stud. Depending on the length of the desk, you could go every 3 in the middle to create some chair space.
I'd use these ...
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