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If I don't have kids or pets and live outside a quake zone, is there furniture that doesn't need to be attached to the wall? Yes, anything made out of real wood that has a foot at each corner or generally, anything not from [expletives] IKEA.


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That changes when you live in earthquake country I live in earthquake country (Tokyo) Every home center here has an entire aisle of brackets, braces, anchors etc. designed to hold things up without drilling - useful as most apartment walls are bunker-grade concrete. However, nothing in our place is attached. We deliberately pack it bottom-heavy, don't ...


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As a landlord I would say it's not the putting holes in the walls that I don't like, it's the leaving holes I have a problem with. As long as it's a normal sheet rock and paint wall, not paneling, finished woodworking, or masonry, that's a different story. A few holes for a noble cause (keeping your bookshelf from crushing a toddler for example) is not an ...


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Do they prohibit you from nailing pictures to the wall too? If so, that's ridiculous. If not, then do this: Use a stud finder to find a stud. Drive a 2" drywall screw through the furniture anchor and the drywall and 1.5" into the stud. Anchor the furniture. Plan to move out in a few years. Patch the hole with a dab of spackling compound. The hole you'll ...


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I have never fastened freestanding furniture to the wall, until recently when I had children. I have never had a dresser or shelving unit tip. I don't live in an area where earthquakes are common, and I'm guessing you don't either if the landlord won't let you fasten furniture to the wall. However, in defying the manufactures instructions you are doing ...


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It is good practice to anchor any piece of furniture which could topple [or for that matter anything which could topple]. Some reasons furniture might topple: Seismic activity: Beyond moving, this is out of a person's control. Improper Loading: e.g. bookshelves with heavy items on upper shelves above light items on lower shelves or file cabinets with full ...


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You could remove the brace, drill holes into the other bars that are thiner and move the brace up closer to the glass. Obviously the closer you get to the top the less steady it will become so only allow enough room to where you are comfortable. I actually use to have the same desk in black. The glass makes it heavy so as long as one side is braced correctly ...


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There's a good product that I have used before called 'Ronseal Multipurpose Wood Filler Tub - Dark' you can pick it up for about £6 from the likes of Homebase etc. It gives a nice finish to fill the wood cracks and it dries dark. Can also be used for exterior furniture


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In many cases that is epoxy, mixed with lamp black or another colorant. (There are tints which can be used to more closely match the color of the surrounding wood, but in fact black usually looks pretty reasonable.)


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Securely screw your mounting hardware into something structural, and it's unlikely you'll "break the wall" unless you're planning on piling thousands of kilograms on your table. If your structure is made of wood, make sure you screw into the framing members with long screws. Don't just screw into the drywall or plaster, which are not capable of bearing much ...


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Table over hang is anywhere from 0-5 inches judging from these pictures' measurements and eyeballing what I've seen online. Meaning the seat is the same radius or smaller. If you call it at a 4" over hang per side then you need a 28" radius semi-circle cut in the bench. I slouch, so 2-4" is good for me. People with good posture probably expect 4-6". ...



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