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I think the cabinet would make a great built-in bookcase without any real modifications. Just remove the glass doors if you want unhindered access or visibility to your books. Since books are heavy, though, if you intend to fill the shelves with books, you might want to replace the glass shelves with ¾"-thick plywood shelves.


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The back of the cabinet plays a large role keeping the unit square. My suggestion is to forget about trying to re-work that cabinet. There a bunch of concerns: Cutting off the back 4 to 5 inches would remove the rear shelf support brackets. The internal shelves are glass and would need to be cut or replaced with other materials. There would still need to ...


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Wikipedia says usual approaches are either insecticides (possibly supplemented with electrical bug zappers to kill emerging adults), or moving the piece into a deep freeze for a few weeks (usually expensive and may cause some damage). Low oxygen treatment is non-damaging but even slower and still usually expensive.


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I believe you should contact a licensed exterminator. My experience with hard to reach burrowing insects or worms was dealt with by an exterminator who has access to products we do not. For example we have had problems with carpenter bees which travelled long distances through the beams. With a puff of some powder" which the creature carries back to the ...


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I'd try simply wedging something in against the head of the bolt if you have any accessibility at all. Otherwise, an impact tool may break it loose even without support on the bolt. Often the inertia of the bolt's mass is enough to hold it against the tool's force.


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I believe that this will end up in the wood working SE, but it should be noted that furniture wax is really wax like from a candle; it could be beeswax or petrol (it's not like floor wax which is definitely not wax). Wax is "non-polar". Wax can be cleaned with naptha or paint thinner, which are also non-polar molecules (like dissolves like), but that might ...


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This may sound diferent, but you want to save a waxed piece so DONT SAND caps intended! Get a heat gun for stripping paint it will melt the wax and reduce it to the point spirits or acetone will take it off, some times MEK Methyl Eythel Keytone is needed (use out doors with gloves) let the wood dry once the wax is gone. Now you might want do do a very light ...


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The wax has to be removed. It's too slippery for anything to stick to it. Paint thinner will liquefy the wax and you can soak it up with newspapers or paper towels. The shellac primer will then form a barrier to seal the latex paint from getting down into the wood/wax/finish. I like to use it in spray can and put on several light coats.


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It appears that there are a series of things that are going on with the metal rail edge of the drafting table. Here is what I saw: There is residual celo tape or tape glue present. Original finish that appears to be a paint is rubbed off in many places. Some miscellaneous glue or finish drippings seem to be present. There appears to be some dark finish the ...



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