New answers tagged furnace
No fuel. Verify that you have gas supplied to the unit. Also, an automatic gas valve sometimes malfunctions by sticking. After you have verified that gas is supplied to the unit, give the automatic valve a solid tap with a hammer or a wrench during the start-up cycle to see if it opens. If so, then you need a new gas valve. (Do not tap the valve hard ...
Looking at the diagram I have to ask why you need to add a common if your replacing an existing t-stat. If theres no feature you need to add or problem you need to fix, you should continue to use the same configuration. Otherwise use the chassis ground. There should be a blue wire bolted to the frame. Its normal to use the chassis as a ground/neutral as ...
I have a Hunter model 44550 (also known as Auto Saver 550). It tracks actual run time, displays run time (today, yesterday, this week, last week, since reset), and flashes FILTER after 500 hours of run time. (The 500 hours for filter reminder cannot be changed.) The model has been around for about 15 years but is still available. Unfortunately I'm looking ...
The limit switch isn't on the control board; it is an external part that is mounted in the plenum above the burners. Wires run from the control board to the limit switch. If you also have no heat and no AC, then check that there's 24 volts present on the control board. Some control boards have a normally closed relay that turns off the fan by pulling ...
Call a licensed oil burner service technician (or a company employing such technicians) and have the furnace inspected, then serviced or replaced. Typically your fuel oil supplier is also an employer of service technicians. Likely normal servicing is all that is required; this is typically performed on an annual basis, rather than waiting until the furnace ...
This sounds like a safety lockout occurring on shutdown. You are probably clearing the lockout each time you go through your procedure. Look for a failure code to be set on the control board after the furnace stops. The code should point you in the correct direction.
Lots of dust and debris on the vents means your air filters pass dirt. 2" pleated MERV 7-8 are good if your system will handle thicker media. 1" pleated are OK but may be more restrictive. In my region, specialty filter supply houses are the best place to purchase filters. They will sell retail at a fair price, and if you need a nonstandard size they ...
Your list is pretty good. Check/clean flame, filters, condensation drain and coils. I would also listen for abnormal noise and check both cooling and heating performance by measuring the indoor and outdoor temperature splits. I would not go measuring capacitors unless I suspected a failure.
Asbestos. (lgam.info/asbestos-cement-pipe) You'd need cast couplings: (ebay, Smith Blair Industrial Ad)
Extending the exhausts (to the roof or around the corner) seems the only reasonable solution to me. Check the installer's manual to see if it needs to be in 3" for the new distance length.
It's an outside air (intake, probably, but you don't specify direction of airflow.) Can be a simple system that forces some ventilation by bringing in fresh air all the time, can be a more complex system that alters the amount of outside air with a damper depending on the temperature inside, and outside, and called for by the thermostat (ie, so that you ...
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