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Came late to the party, but just wanted to add my method (which is mostly DIY) - I have a wireless Arduino that records the temperature near a vent, sends it to the computer where it's saved in a database. There I can graph it, and (in the "near" future) be able to calculate the on/off times.


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I have seen the same problem with my York furnace. I squeezed in the connectors and now it is working OK.


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There is a new player in this industry, but they're running about $100 per device with Nest integration: https://www.ecoventsystems.com/your-system/


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Call your utility. They should be able to send somebody out to turn it on, or at least explain to you why they haven't already. The utility owns the meter, so you shouldn't be messing with it. Rest assured, they will hold you responsible for any damages to the meter.


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There's likely a switch that senses when the door is ajar attached somewhere near the edge of the door opening. Sometimes the switch presses against a little feltlike pad that can become depressed over time. That'll release the switch and tell the furnace that the door is open when it's not. Replacing or thickening that pad may well solve your problem. Oh ...


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If wiggling (which is the correct technical term) can make it stop, or start again, the problem is most likely a broken or mostly broken wire. The wire can be broken inside of the insulation, and look fine. I have the broken wire inside the insulation all the time, my cats love my rubber phone charge cord, and will chew it. When I go to charge my phone, ...


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There is often a "fan" switch on the thermostat, which can be set either to "auto" or to "on" - the "on" setting runs the fan all the time, which can be helpful with distributing heat (or cold) in houses that otherwise tend to be very cold downstairs and very hot upstairs due to natural convection currents, especially if the furnace/AC does not run for quite ...


1

The furnace tech indicated it was an improperly connected pipe used for bleeding air from the system, and it was also unnecessary as we have bleeder valves on the hot water circuits. They removed the pipe and plugged it, and we haven't had an issue since.


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I had this exact same problem. I too have an on demand water oil furnace. I too had the problem which seemed to only affect the shower/tub. The problem was the shower/tub valve cartridge. Here's a YouTube video that shows how to replace it. I took the old one out and saw no problems with it, but a new one from home depot for $20 fixed the problem. It took ...


4

i would suggest having an HVAC contractor visit to examine all of your ductwork. My guess would be there are wholes, gaps, or rips in the ducts whereupon the system in operation is pulling the dust in from wall cavities, basement or attic (depending on where the ductwork runs). Once the contractor (or yourself) seals up and/or replaces any ductwork then ...


0

The humidifier may be telling it to blow. The thermostat may do it to sample the air or the furnace may have a 'stir' setting.


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For a correctly installed and maintained furnace, the only consequence is slightly reduced combustion efficiency. That is well within the range of temperatures furnaces are designed to endure.


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Check the CFM rating of your blower unit against the square footage of your home, and the capacity of the furnace/AC units. It could be too high and in need of adjustment or replacement with a lower CFM unit (contact an HVAC pro if you aren't confident in making this assessment yourself.) Also, check that you have the right air filter in place ahead of the ...


3

Heat will not set off a smoke detector. Heat will set off a heat detector, but most heat detectors would not be set off by the temperatures in an attic (and if one is, if probably means the attic could stand some ventilation upgrades.) A heat detector is commonly employed in areas where some minor smoke might be expected but fire is still a concern (such as ...


3

How high are the bottom of the doors off the floor? you may be able to solve your problem by cutting bottom off of doors 1 1/2" max.


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You can resell it yourself, rather than having the HVAC folks take it away. Put it on craigslist, etc. If you have them take it away, they will almost certainly sell or use it, but you getting any money from that would be more difficult to arrange; you can ask them, rather than us, about that. You can add a second furnace only big enough for the new ...


0

Your furnace is shutting down on limit. There can be a number of causes for this. Start by making sure you have a clean filter in the furnace. A dirty or restrictive filter can cause this issue. Alternatively you could also have a dirty or plugged up A/C evaporator coil which is located above your furnace. This can also cause a furnace to cycle off on high ...


1

Scott, I am not a furnace repair guy or an HVAC guy. Personally, I'd have to recommend calling an HVAC guy if you don't already have this level of knowledge. In your area, it may be illegal to work on your furnace, it will likely void any remaining warranty (and the heat exchangers typically have long (5/10 year warranties), the manufacturer won't help ...


5

This is common in HVAC systems with a single central return. My system does this too. It's simply the nature of a central-return system. The only practical way around it is to have a balanced system with per-room returns sized the same as the supply registers on those rooms. There are a couple of things you can do about it. One is to spend hundreds to ...


1

AKA: Dirty Sock Syndrome (paraphrased), caused by the growth of mold and bacteria on the coil. Heat pumps (central HVAC) are particularly susceptible because, unlike conventional heat exchangers, their heating cycles are not hot enough to kill the microbes that thrive on their wet coils during the cooling season. Instead, the temperature is just warm enough ...


0

Your primary limit is on lockout. You have to change it out. The problem is either a dirty filter that hasn't been changed in a couple years, or you have to clean off A - coil Finns to get better air flow due to running a system without a filter for a long period of time.


1

Same thing my the system in my house. Uses a MERV 16 5". Smell was the filter itself. Dont know what it picked up, but it was generating its own odor. Whew ! I think it started after I baked a beef roast. which smoked a bit when in the oven. Maybe something in rhe meat ?


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I had the same problem with a recently installed HTP Phoenix Light Duty. When it would fire up to high, there would be a reverberation that sounded kind of like it was coming from the exhaust pipe. It was especially bad at the vent exit from the garage. The noise was periodic, meaning that it would come on for a few seconds and then go off. Did not ...



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