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2

I finished digging it up. It was just an oval piece of concrete (about 3 inch deep) that had the edges wrapped with metal. 0_0 so I guess trash is the closest answer. Wish I knew what it was t here for...it seemed deliberately placed.


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The only goof is that the 24V from the transformer is AC so it really doesn't have a + or - side to it -- it's more or less a "hot/neutral" thing instead. Otherwise, what you have drawn out will work just fine.


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I saw a video from Honeywell showing connecting the "G" wire of the old thermostat to the "C" connector on the new thermostat. It said you would lose the ability to run the fan while your furnace or A/C are not running, but the fan would continue to work as normal while either system is operating. That was Honeywell Smart thermostat. Sometimes we do run the ...


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Certainly, air restriction is an efficiency concern, but a realistic measure of the efficiency would be the electric bill, and I doubt that you will notice any difference there. You shoudn't have any issue with putting filters on 100% of the registers. But do be sure to check and change the filters if they are getting dirty. Also be sure to check and change ...


1

Since you have an air handler and not a furnace -- I bet W does nothing whatsoever. Unhook that wire from W and connect it to COM 24V at the furnace end, then use it as your C wire for the new 'stat. And yes, the cable from Y and COM that follows the refrigerant line goes to the condenser unit outside.


1

Run a new cable with at least five conductors. Connect a wire between COM 24V, and the C terminal on the thermostat. The cable that connects to Y and COM 24V, goes out to the outdoor unit. If the indoor unit only blows air, and doesn't add heat. It's called an air handler.


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Since you're changing refrigerants, it's recommended to replace the condensing unit (outdoor unit), all the copper refrigerant lines, as well as the evaporator coil (inside the furnace). It's possible to keep the copper refrigerant lines, though it will require a bunch of extra work. And even still, not replacing the lines can reduce the life of the new ...


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If you don't want to run a fifth wire (which, in our case would have been a real pain since the basement has a finished ceiling), and you don't mind losing the "Fan Run" feature, then jumper the yellow/red and the green/green wires together at the central air/heat circuit card, and move the green wire going to the thermostat from that circuit card to the C ...


5

I know it's in the comments, but I feel it's important enough to place in an answer: Never EVER throw water on a fire that is , or might be, oil or gasoline - based! If your furnace does not have an automatic thermal cutoff valve on the fuel line inlet, you're out of code (at least in Massachusetts), and should definitely have a plumber install one. Keep ...


3

From reading all that you wrote, including the update, it is clear that there is an oil leak somewhere in the furnace mechanism or in the fuel line leading up to the furnace. You should continue to keep the furnace off until you can get an oil furnace repair professional in to take a detailed look at what has gone wrong and get it fixed properly. You will ...


4

On the AC side everything really needs to be changed R22 uses mineral oil based lubricants. R410a uses ester oil lubricants. Getting all the residue out would cost a bunch and these can’t be mixed. The compressor will need to be changed and the TXV / orifice will need to be changed. You might be able to have the evaporator cleaned (indoor coil) if it is in ...



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