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Most blower motors are 3 or 5 speed motors, though it varies by manufacturer. Typically they come with heat set to use LOW, cool and fan set to use HIGH. If it's a 3 speed motor, the HVAC tech is limited to only adjust to MED. Whereas if it's a 5 speed, the HVAC tech has more flexibility. In most cases the factory settings are adequate.


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Interesting problem, I encountered something similar and will relate it as it might be something to look into: The client complaint was intermittent shutdown of gas burner and pilot, requiring the client to re-light the pilot light. I discovered that, occasionally, when the thermostat called for the gas valve to open gas to the main burner, the pilot flame ...


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Based upon the description, the hazard of asbestos has been present on the property for many years and most likely through multiple owners. To date the current owner has not moved to mitigate the hazard, either through ignorance of its presence or due to disregard for the potential harm that may result. As renters, the meaningful options are really: ...


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First ensure the guy doing the inspection is actually licensed; it's not uncommon for someone to go around with an invalid or expired license and basically committing fraud. Make a call to the agency who manages the license to double check. You may be able to find a list online of everyone who has a license in your area. Besides the issues you mention there ...


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No warranty is generally provided. A record of inspection is provided, with notes about what was checked and the readings that were recorded at the end of the adjustment procedure. If you have been (as it would appear) in the habit of adjusting your furnace yourself, the fact that a licensed and insured service technician has looked at it in no way protects ...


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Most furnaces; yours included it appears, do not change the speed of the motor during normal operation. The motor typically has three or more speeds (high, medium, and low), and is hard wired to use different speeds based on what mode the furnace is in. For example, in heating mode most blowers run at low or medium speed. While in fan or A/C mode, they ...


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If you're tripping the high limit, then I'd say it's not back to normal. Sounds like you're not pushing enough cool air through the heat exchanger, which means it can't dissipate the heat fast enough. With a conventional gas furnace, you should be at about 140°F-170°F at the supply plenum. A high efficiency furnace will be lower, around 110°F-140°F. ...


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A single phase motor has a power factor. The formula for power of a single phase motor is voltage time current times power Cosine of the power factor. The power factor for a motor is determined by the manufacturer but I do not know what a typical power factor is for a single phase blower motor. If you can find this out and measure the voltage and the ...


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Since in your case, one side of the transformer is grounded. You can simply use a fork or ring terminal, to connect the C wire to the chassis. Though it appears there's already a wire that's attached to ground, and comes right over near the thermostat wiring. I'd just put my C wire in with the other two wires, in that twist-on wire connector near the bottom ...


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Note: the below was solved. It was a loose wire between the controller and the gas valve (the white wire on the diagram)


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There are a few routes to consider. (each escalating as you go down) Get a second opinion You're concerned the inspection isn't up to snuff and you might be at risk of getting exposed to asbestos. This is a valid concern that shouldn't be taken lightly, asbestos contamination kills people, simple as that. You need to get a second opinion that YOU pay for. ...


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The test lab's report, undoubtedly reflects the scope of work for which the test lab was contracted. That was almost certainly along the lines of: Obtain a field sample of the tape. Test the field sample for the presence of asbestos Given that scope, under the scientific method there is only evidence to support conclusions regarding hazards posed by the ...


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I would get an 2nd opinion report. And then based upon that report make a decision on whether to move or not. A report that conflicts with the one that the landlord contracted for should be strong grounds to get you out of any lease.


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If you don't trust the expert brought in by the landlord, then you might want to pay to have your own expert validate your concerns. As far as to what the landlord does and does not have to do, you'll have to review the lease and laws in your state. At this point, he has paid for a report of a presumed expert that says the ducts are safe as is; it will ...


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High limit switch, (example L240-30 ) it controls fan too, also it is a bimetal switch working on heat on and off and goes erratic.


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Judging from the previous picture, I thought it returned from the lower floor through the bottom of the furnace. If it looks just like that new pic; a side tap with plenty of room, you could put a low-leak damper there that the blower will pull open all by itself when it runs (I'm having trouble finding the kind with a small weight attached...). This will ...


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According to the Installation Instructions for a Goodman GMVC95, there should be a 5" brown wire hanging around, not a terminal. 24 Volt Humidifier A 5" long brown wire in the wire harness at the low fire pressure switch provides 24 VAC humidifier control. This wire is powered any time the pressure switch is closed. To connect 24 VAC HUM, connect ...


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I'd suspect the new inducer (exhaust) motor if this sound begins to occur just before ignition; before the HSI ( hot surface ignitor) gets hot. A gas flame makes more of a roar than a hum. I've had less than stellar inducer motors in the past, with questionable bearings making it sound like rum-rum-rum-rum... I've also had duct work vibrate at the unit; go ...


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Unfortunately, the Aquastat you're using does not expose a C terminal. The transformer is likely soldered directly to the board; so unless you're good with a solder gun, you're going to have to buy a different thermostat. The red wire attached to the T terminal, should be connected to the R terminal of the thermostat. The white wire attached to the T ...


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If those red and white wires are wired correctly, the +24v 'R' terminal should be the red wire in the upper right, that is under the 'T' screw. Do NOT mess with either of the (12g) wires in the upper left, under the L1 and L2 terminals. Shut the power off to the unit before you go poking around in there. The C terminal you're after does not seem to be user ...


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There is a chemical added to natural gas (ethyl mercaptan) so you can smell leaks. However, this chemical burns, otherwise you would smell it when using a gas stove -- so it will not warn you of a leak after combustion, which is where the Carbon Monoxide (CO) hazard exists. You should probably inform company B, and your home warranty company, that their ...



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