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There should be no problem connecting the C wire from your thermostat to the C terminal in the furnace. Take a look at this diagram, which is a rough approximation of your system. Notice the cable going to the condensing unit has a red wire connected to the Y terminal in the furnace, and a white wire attached to the C terminal. When the thermostat calls ...


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You have a bad high limit switch, or the furnace is overheated. The high limit switch is in place to make sure the furnace doesn't heat up to the point that it damages itself, or anything around it. If the furnace gets too hot, the limit switch opens. When the switch opens the burners turn off, but the blower continues to run in an attempt to clear the heat. ...


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The air filter should slide in the slot between the return air duct, and the furnace. The filter should have some markings on it, to indicate which way the air should flow through it. Make sure when you install it, you install it in the proper direction. Supporting Documentation The installation instructions shows the location of an optional external ...


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It looks like you're out of luck. It appears that the transformer is inside the hydrostat, and it doesn't expose a C terminal. You could contact the manufacturer, and ask them if there's a workaround. Based on the documentation, there's no obvious way to connect a WiFi thermostat to the system.


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You could tandem a thermostat upstairs, but you will always be wasting heat downstairs. The proper solution is two furnaces or space heaters upstairs. I have a separate zone upstairs with a thermostat, but because we mostly only use one room up there I heat that room with a space heater.


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While those answers may apply to some degree, I know the plate does create a restriction, which causes a slight vacuum in the blower section. This vacuum is used on some furnaces to actuate the diaphragm pressure/vacuum safety switch. If you have a diaphragm switch hose leading from the blower housing, then you'll find the furnace will not start gas flow ...


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Does the ratio of static pressures between two stories differ at different blower speeds? That's a very interesting question, but I believe it's a moot point. Any dramatic difference would mean your system isn't balanced correctly in the first place. (needs zoning, split systems, or an actual balancing) Stack effect will cause plenty of heat to go upstairs, ...


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If the vents are blowing the room temperature air weakly, then it sounds like there may be a duct disconnected somewhere that's blowing most of the hot air somewhere that's not useful (into a corner of the basement, into an unconditioned attic, etc). I'd trace the duct path from the furnace to a register and see if you can see where any disconnections might ...


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Does the pilot light and stay lit when you hold in the control knob in the "pilot" position? If yes, you may need a new thermocouple, it is the little tube looking thing next to the pilot flame area. When it gets heated it sends an electrical signal to the gas valve which allows the gas to flow and the pilot to stay lit (and burner to light). If no, you ...


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It could be the connection or the sensor. If those connectors move a lot when you wiggle them, they may just be loose, and vibrations from the furnace affecting them. So the first thing I would try is pulling the connectors off and squeezing them a little bit with a pair of pliers, so they dig in a little tighter when you put them back on. That costs ...


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One option is a "heat recovery ventilator". This is basically device that extracts heat out of air that is exhausting and transfers it to air that is entering. You should also check to see if you can supply combustion air directly to the furnace; many furnaces let you duct an air supply in directly. There are also water heaters that allows you to do this, ...


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I'm still exploring this issue of combustion air, but there is certainly an ancient way of making that cold winter air Far more reasonable to add to the structure. In 1980, my family built a house in the Maine woods with what is now called an 'Earth Tube', that runs a fresh air source pipe underground for long enough to moderate the temperature away from ...


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A water expansion tank gives water a place to expand in a closed system (frequently found with boilers, or home water supplies with a check valve). Otherwise, heated water cannot expand and instead increases pressure until some component of the system leaks or explodes. If the tank is on the hot water heating system, then it's there to relieve expansion ...


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Sounds legit. As you decrease the temperature of air inside the chimney you decrease the flow rate out of it causing the mixing with cooler air to happen in the chimeny rather than out of it. It could be that this didn't happen in 2011 because of warmer outside air temperature, different humidity conditions, or that your exhaust was running hotter/faster ...



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