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14

I assume you are in a cold climate, like Minnesota (where I am). I will address your question in three parts; the first two have to do with the humidifier. The "winter" setting on the duct in your photo: It appears from the photo that the duct in question goes from your humidifier around to the return (intake) side of your furnace's ducting. This needs ...


12

This is quite possibly an emergency. Call your gas utility company and have them come check it out immediately. Also, open some windows to draw fresh air into your home, if you have a gas or exhaust leak it can be a fire and suffocation hazard.


11

It's not necessary, they probably just put it in because it was easy to do and gives you the option of heating the garage if you want. I would keep the vent closed, and if you want an even better seal, the make magnetic pads that you can put over the vent as well


10

Insulate the pipes. You are likely losing a lot of heat into your basement if they aren't insulated. Unless your basement is finished (and therefore you want the heat there) you want to keep as much heat in those pipes as possible so that it gets into the main part of your house. The heater (and other similar equipment like hot water heater) should heat ...


9

As far as I know, as long as the electric and gas lines don't actually touch, there's no more reason to be concerned about the gas and electric being 2 feet apart as there is 20 feet. If you have a gas leak from the furnace, the furnaces own ignition system (pilot light or electronic sparker) has as much chance of setting off a blast as the dryer.


9

Where to find the specifications Listed on the furnace Somewhere inside the service panel of the furnace, there should be a schematic for the furnace. This may list the electrical specifications of the blower motor. If not, the blower motor itself will have a label on it. It should list the voltage, amperage, horsepower, etc. Using an Ammeter An ...


9

Okay, so I think I figured out the reason, and I learned a lot about HVAC in the process. The answer is that a ceiling fan is moving air at basically zero "static pressure." Static pressure in an HVAC context means the amount of resistance that the air has to moving. In a free environment, that's zero, or close to it, but in a tightly restricted system of ...


8

The concern that I know of is about the size of the pipe and all appliances that can be running at the other end. So if they ran out of a larger dimension pipe (or just had a lot of the smaller dimension) this would almost make sense. But I'd think any normal installer would try to minimize the parts cost and split it closer to the appliances. However, if ...


8

Some of the more advanced thermostats will track how often they are running. I have a Filtrete Wifi-Enabled Progammable Thermostat. It gives you a per-day total of how often the heat and A/C are run. You can also download an hour-by-hour export of the usage in CSV format. I am in no way affiliated with this company. It is simply a product I have ...


8

Necessary? No. More efficient? Yes. When the HVAC is centrally located the warmer/cooler air has less overall distance to travel to cover the entire house, as it's radiating out from the center. If you have noticed that one side of your house is less comfortable than the other, it may be worth the relocation. If the house is generally comfortable year ...


8

PVC is relatively inexpensive so the main cost is installing it. If your furnace is near an exterior wall, they'll simply make a hole in that wall and run the lines directly out. If your furnace isn't close to an exterior wall, then you need to run the lines through the ceiling, preferably in the direction of the joists, until you reach an exterior wall. If ...


8

The filter sits between the air return duct and the heat chamber, BEFORE the cool air enters the furnace. The air flow arrow almost certainly will point at the furnace, not away from it. If the filter sat after the furnace, there would be potential hazards associated with it, like possibility of fire (hot air hitting a cardboard frame) and release of nasty ...


8

Bleeding radiators is quite simple, and can usually be done by homeowners. All that's required is a radiator key, a towel and/or bowl, and a bit of time. Why Bleed Radiators Even with closed systems, air can still find its way into the system. When it does, it will collect at the highest points available (the top of radiators). Trapped air can cause ...


8

For the ducts, the setting indicates where you should set the switch based on the season. If your house has separate air return ducts on different floors or even multiple ducts on the same floor, changing the setting changes which ducts pull air from the house, allowing lower ducts to suck cold air out in the winter and higher ducts to suck hot air out in ...


7

There are various degrees of a "zoned" HVAC system. A simple zoned system will include motorized dampers in the ducts to direct air where it is needed. e.g. If one room is too cold, but the other ones are fine, the system will shut the dampers to the other rooms, and then fire up the heater so just the one room is heated. More sophisticated zoning systems ...


7

I have an ancient oil-fired steam boiler with a "tankless" hot water heater. I built an Arduino-based board that connects in parallel to the thermostat wires at the furnace. It uses a MID400 AC optocoupler to detect when the thermostat is calling for heat (24VAC when not calling for heat, 0VAC when it is), and then sends that to a computer via an XBee ...


7

As best I know, a fire rated utility room isn't required by any code for a single family structure. And for multi-family (e.g. condos), this requirement is to isolate each residence from each other and from common/utility areas. So the below advice is completely overkill. For the room itself, you can use fire rated drywall. This is usually 5/8" thick, and ...


7

Whether or not they remove the fill line, depends on how the tank is decommissioned. There are three ways an abandoned tank can be handled, as explained in this PDF The 1997 Uniform Fire Code, adapted by WAC 51- 44, requires that heating oil tanks out of service for a period of one year shall be decommissioned by using one of the following ...


6

While this won't specifically isolate your furnace from the rest of your energy usage, I'd recommend getting a Blue Line PowerCost Monitor (or the Black & Decker branded version, which is cheaper) their WiFi Gateway, and a free Microsoft Hohm account. Current Amazon links and prices: Black & Decker EM100B Energy Saver Series Power Monitor, $43.99 ...


6

Any time you have heating ductwork in an unheated area, it is very wise to insulate it. There are several products, but I tend to go with the high density, foil backed fiberglass wrap most of the time. The exact type differs depending on the shape of the ductwork. (round vs rectangular) I always seal any seams in the insulation with foil tape. To solve the ...


6

As Tester101 mentioned (and he really should've made it an answer, because it's at least a partial one), the filter could restrict airflow to the point where your furnace overheats. Hence the 'Limit' error. But wait! Trying a cheaper filter, or running without a filter, isn't a good answer. You'll shortly find that the furnace won't run at all, with or ...


6

Is it expensive? Well that depends on your definition of "expensive", the amount of work you need to do, and who you get to do the work. 90% efficient furnaces require PVC venting directly outside, as opposed to using a chimney like the older 80% furnaces do. The extra expense is entirely dependent on how easy it is to route these pipes from your furnace to ...


5

There should be zero difference in the safety between the least and most expensive furnace. The major differences will feature related. Any modern furnace purchased in the US meets the appropriate ASTM, NFPA, et al, specifications. More expensive furnaces will features like: Humidifers, multi zone heating ability, economizer, multiple heat exchangers for ...


5

After a bit of research, (translated: "mad google skills") I found an article claiming that lowering the blower speed may increase efficiency. I'm not completely convinced on this, since the claim is made by a company that sells variable speed blowers for retrofitting HVAC systems. I would think adjusting the heating element would save more energy than ...


5

It's got to do with the volume of gas delivered to each appliance. The gas coming into your home is at some standard pressure, through a large-diameter pipe (2 inch or so diameter, perhaps). That means that some particular volume of gas can come into your home per second. Each appliance has a certain volume of gas per second that it needs to operate, but it ...


5

I also have a thermostat that requires a C wire hookup for wifi access. The spec calls for a 24 volt DC and I presently have it wired to share a 24 volt termination on my AC air handler. What I discovered was that this termination in the air handler does not provide a constant output of 24 volts. Instead, it cycles as called upon by the air handler and ...


5

It sounds to me like you've got a two stage furnace. Stage 1, low heat, just enough to maintain temperatures. Won't produce warm air, just warm enough air - much more efficient than running full burn. Stage 2, high heat, for when it's actually cold. Produces WARM air intended to raise temps. Less efficient than stage 1, but gets the house warm. Stage ...


5

Time to call a serviceman again. If you are smelling smoke from the heat vents, there is most likely something seriously wrong with your furnace. Combustion air and the ambient air should NEVER be mixing and this presents a dangerous situation where CO (Carbon Monoxide) could be entering your living area. This is potentially fatal if not fixed properly. I ...


5

Check the specs on the devices. They will each have some amount of specified clearance, and you shouldn't get closer than that number (for the dryer it may be zero on the sides, but I bet the furnace will be at least a foot all around). Beyond that, make sure there's enough room to get in between the dryer and furnace to work on the furnace (you don't want ...


5

Most furnaces have an AC component that is powered on when it is running. Put a ac clock in parallel with this. For up to 12 hr this will tell you the time the device is running. Other types of timers will go for longer. Most furnaces run at two speeds stop and full.



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