Hot answers tagged freezing
13
You are definatly running a risk of freezing these lines in an unheated space. It is never wise to run water lines in an outside wall or above an insulated ceiling in an unheated space.
Perhaps you can do one of the following:
1) Run the lines under the floor in the basement (not unheated crawl space) where freezing will be much less likely.
2) Run the ...
9
The problem here of course is that snow/freezing rain gets into the lock and freezes. With a house, this isn't normally a problem for a few reasons. First, you use it often enough that it doesn't get that bad, and second the inside of the house is warm, which prevents water from freezing inside the lock (unless it gets really, really cold I suppose).
You ...
7
Put the cord/hole in the top of the door, and it really won't matter:
The cold air is heavier than the air around it. So your freezer full of cold air is like a bucket of water: the cold air is trying to flow out only where gravity will let it. Other than the stirring of air causing the mingling of warm and cold air, a freezer doesn't need a top at all. ...
5
Based on the pics and the amount of movement alone, I'm guessing that the foundation for this slab was not properly prepared. I'd wager that someone simply dug a squareish hole a few inches deep, put in boards for forms and poured the concrete. Looks great for a while, but doesn't do squat to avoid shifting in cold weather when the water freezes.
A proper ...
4
Not a lot to be done, damage done is , well , done. Best to just make sure they are fed and watered well, and in the fall you could trim any remaining dead wood though that's not necessary.
It's probably a bit early to determine if a tree will survive, let spring get here.
Trees are very self sufficient. Probably better than 80% of so called "tree care" is ...
4
You are correct that having a hot radiator on what's effectively a cold space - the porch - is very inefficient and, presuming nobody's on the porch most of the time, wastes a lot of energy.
And you are correct that the hot water going into that radiator is being cooled in the process.
However, it is unlikely that the water is going to any other radiators, ...
4
I would definitely be worried about remembering to drain the valve, and it's also a pain that you'd have to drain it inside. Your second option is pretty good though, otherwise.
Another option, which is probably easier, would be to make up an adapter of sorts for the outside. Take a regular spigot, attach to a 90 degree elbow, and put a hose adapter on ...
4
Latex paint is composed of a mixture of components that when frozen can cause the solids to expand and separate from the mixture. Effects of using damaged latex paint can result in degraded performance such as un-even coat, less gloss, cracking and peeling of paint much sooner when exposed to the environments (sun light), and etc.
It is not recommended to ...
3
I have an idea for you. Instead of insulating and heating the entire garage to save a few gallons of paint, perhaps you could build a small insulated paint locker. Build a box or cabinet large enough to store all your paints. Insulate the inside with some 2 inch rigid foam or R-11 blanket insulation and put some foam weather stripping around the insulated ...
3
What about the following:
Replace the existing bibb with an elbow pointing upward
Attach a valve with a drain as shown below
Add a pipe to the desired height
Add an elbow and bibb
In the winter, close the lower valve and open the bibb and the drain.
3
I don't know about Germany, but in the US extension cords are available that have the conductors side-by-side, having an overall flat profile rather than round. Follow Bob's advice to put the cord in at the top, and seal any remaining gap with painter's tape. You should be able to pull it off and reapply it one or two times if you need to open the ...
2
Are you sure the slab has shifted and it wasn't simply poured that way? The gap appears to be the width of a 2x4 form. Some theories:
a form was used along the foundation to pour the slab leaving the gap
the house used to have older (thicker) siding/sheathing that was replaced with the vinyl (increasing the visual gap)
the gap was put there purposefully.
...
2
It really depends on what scale you are going to.
If most of the time you are NOT going to use the mixer in the fridge- then no- breaking the seal is not a good idea.
It is difficult to understand and see how to run this wire. I assume you are putting 220/110 volt in the fridge.. not a great idea-- but thats DIY :)
Look how the wires of the liight bulb go ...
2
Make an insulated, heated enclosure for the paint. Since the paint is already on a wire rack, just insulate the floor and enclose the bottom shelf of the rack. Use a lizard heater and a thermo-cube.
Cut and notch OSB, rigid foam insulation and some scrap pegboard to fit on the floor below the shelf. Use scrap vinyl to make a serpentine channel on the ...
2
PVC is a good choice, provided that it is properly installed and maintained. A proper installation includes shielding the PVC from UV light, which is the primary means of premature aging. UV light will eventually turn PVC into a brittle mess.
ABS on the other hand tends to not become brittle with sun exposure, but to deform and is generally softer. As a ...
1
Any or all of your ideas will help, it largely depends on your climate and how long of a below freezing stretch you can expect. The drain outlet is supposed to be within some distance of the ground, 18" I believe, which is why it was configured that way. In areas subject to freezing, all piping carrying water should be run as far as practical inside the ...
1
There's two questions here.
1) Will my pipes freeze in my unheated basement?
Probably not. Provided you don't have a lot of the foundation wall exposed to the air outside, the basement will likely always remain above freezing due to ground temperature. Ensuring that you properly insulate the stud bays and the like will make that even less likely to ...
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