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A hundred years ago, that would be called a 'root cellar', and considered a great place to keep your potato crop or smoked meats. The temperature will be relatively constant down there because of the ground contact. Insulating will actually reduce that thermal buffering effect given the vents. Your problem for guns and art is humidity. I'd start by ...


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I would replace all the old framing that is split up like that. The header at the top of the opening also looks to be in pretty poor shape. From this so far it seems like a complete reframing is in order.


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Depending upon the area that you live in the building structure may contain bracing such as this to help mitigate problems that can occur when earth quakes happen. So really make sure you check things out to determine if local building codes require that brace to be there. You could be in for future liability problems if you just remove it.


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Now that I've seen the photos, it's clear to me that at least the jack studs should be replaced; fortunately, their replacement should be fairly easy. The one on the latch side could be replaced by a 4x4, but it should have a tiny "sill plate" attached to half its bottom end with contruction adhesive because otherwise it'll overhang the existing sill plate. ...


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That can be answered only after a careful examination of the framing in that wall, and of lateral loading and determining whether other braces also exist within the wall. Best case you can remove that brace and never worry about it. Worst case the building could collapse.


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if the post is within the line of the walls: Blue is existing, red is nailing strips, green is bulkhead...


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Build a wall in front of the short wall with the studs oriented flat. Use a PT 2x2 for extending the sole plate. Block the end solid to the post with ripped studs as required to strengthen corner. Blocking is lumber used for additional nailing surfaces and/or to create rigidity in the direction perpendicular to the primary framing members. Solid blocking ...


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Most US building codes require forces to be calculated in accordance with ASCE-7: Minimum Design Loads for Buildings and Other Structures. Some may offer prescriptive design requirements, these tend not to include proprietary engineered products such as specific Simpson Anchors. The Simpson H2.5A can make framing easier. However, it may or may not be ...


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The answer ultimately depends upon your local climate/weather (heavy wind loading?), but generally the way to handle that situation is to span the joists at the top plate with a "rim joist", then toenail all the joists to the top plate. BTW... you might want your top plate to extend over the top of that corner post instead of nailing to its side. ...


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Quoid, do you live in an area subject to heavy snow loading? If you do, DO NOT remove those joists - they're responsible for holding your walls in as your roof exerts downward pressure from the snow's weight. Remove them, and the walls may blow outward as the garage collapses around you.


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In the United States, most building codes require a minimum dimension for wood studs in bearing walls is 2x4(nominal). The number of jack-studs varies with the size of building, the width of the opening, and the ground snow load from 1 to many. It is common for building codes to allow the use of approved framing anchors, in lieu of jack studs when only one ...


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Have him re-frame it, as it almost certainly won't pass inspection. Not sure what the code specifies in you area, but the International Residential Code is really specific as to the requirements: R603.7 Jack and king studs. The number of jack and king studs installed on each side of a header shall comply with Table R603.7(1). King, jack and ...


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Your hunch is correct - the anchor bolt in the picture obviously isn't doing a whole lot. If the scabbed on 2x4 bothers you, just remove it, cut the existing anchor bolt off flush with the concrete, and put in a new anchor through the center of the base plate.



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