New answers tagged framing
You could use 3/8" drywall on one side and 1/2" on the other, instead of 1/2"on both sides and it should be very close. A good wide mud joint will even it out and hardly be noticeable.
In my current house I have run new wiring both in the walls and outside with conduit. If you have a clear run outside where the conduit will not be too obvious I would do it that way; especially on a multilevel run. I have some wiring I am going to be running up a convenient inside wall to the second floor. I bought a cheap fiber-optic camera so I can look ...
After thinking about a little more I think I figured out how I can run the 1-1/4" conduit without doing too much damage. I'm going to go with EMT. 1-1/4" requires a hole that is less than 50% of the top plate so I don't need to worry about reinforcement. Still have to figure out the best spacing within the bay. I'll start by removing small sections of ...
If you have closets that are stacked on top of each other, it may be easier to just run the conduit inside the closets. That way you are only going through subfloors and ceilings, avoiding all structural members. If finished appearance is important, you could drywall over the pipe, too.
A professional would probably remove some drywall, install continuous conduit from end to end, and restore the drywall. It is a bit more disruptive, but not really harder than doing it with flexible bits and trickery.
I much prefer using common 16d nails (the greenish nails) for 90% my framing. Two driven down through the lower sill plate will hold the cripples in place. Then nail the upper sill plate on top of the lower one using 16d nails. You can toenail the cripples into the sole plate with either two 8d or 12d nails on one side of the cripple and a third nail on ...
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