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7

No, I would not recommend nailing through carpet. Whether or not you prefer to, cutting the carpet and pad and removing them (under the wall) is the only right way to do this job. Baseboards on top of carpet will look like baseboards on top of carpet. If that's not how the rest of the baseboards are done, they will indeed look "off;" especially in the ...


7

Framing is structural, not cosmetic. So wood splinters and rough cuts are not an issue as long as they are carrying the load above and provide a good nailing surface at the correct locations. The part of the home you see, drywall (particularly the mudding), cabinets, flooring, etc, is where you make sure it looks good for appearance, but those looks don't ...


7

I'd use 3 good ones in an 8 foot run; more if they don't feel solid. (Since it's not structural, all you're really trying to do is hold the wall to the floor and resist any after-the-fact warp/twist issues.)


6

Not critical at all. There are best practices. Like making sure corners have stud surface on both sides, making all studs 16 on center, make all studs plumb. Does it matter? No. Do inspectors care? No. Now I wouldn't suggest making your studs further than 16 inches but back in the day they were generally 24 for basements. I have seen people do them ...


5

It's much easier to check that something is level than to check that something is 6 degrees or 1/4 inch higher. Build it level. Then add a 1/4 inch strip of wood (a length of lath or trim) across the inside edge of the horizontal framing member. You are correct that the sleeve will be sitting on two edges, the added trim strip and the outside edge of the ...


4

International Residential Code 2012 Chapter 6 Wall Construction Section R602 Wood Wall Framing R602.7 Headers. For header spans see Tables R502.5(1) and R502.5(2). So if you're on the top floor, you can use 2 2x4's (unless the building is 36' wide, in which case you'll need 2 2x6's). If you have a floor above, you'll need 2 2x6's ...


4

Rip some strips of 1/8 hardboard (masonite) and tack them on the new studs. Or you could use plywood, but hardboard is usually less expensive, and less prone to giving you splinters when you rip a bunch of it.


4

As a home inspector, I can tell you that sheer existence of those damaged joists are going to be a RED FLAG at any time you decide to sell and move on. If they are badly burned, they are not structurally sound and should be removed. Install a few temp supports on ends of adjacent joists, then remove and replace them one or two at a time. Use proper joist ...


4

Have him re-frame it, as it almost certainly won't pass inspection. Not sure what the code specifies in you area, but the International Residential Code is really specific as to the requirements: R603.7 Jack and king studs. The number of jack and king studs installed on each side of a header shall comply with Table R603.7(1). King, jack and ...


4

It looks to me like the proper fix for this is going to end up being a lot more work that what you probably want to hear about. If I was the contractor recommending the repair scenario I would be saying to remove whole upper structure and replace it anew. Such a flat roof is always a recipe for a mess like this. It it was at all possible to rebuild the ...


3

You need to box off that floor joist. You can remove an section of the joist in the way. You then build a box connecting the ends of the cut off joist to adjacent joists with perpendicular ties of the same dimensions of lumber. 2X10's for example. These ties transfer the load to the adjacent joists and give you an opening for plumbing or duct work.


3

Any framing that directly contacts concrete should be pressure treated. So option 3. Sealing is an optimistic concept at best, .vs. ensuring that there is proper drainage outside the basement, but you could certainly put construction adhesive on the bottom of the soleplate, it won't hurt.


3

I would knock that sucker out with impunity. If it is to serve some purpose, it most likely would not be code compliant. Fire blocking is the first thing that comes to mind, but it is only in one stud section.


3

I think the big issue is the carpet. Keeping a padding and old carpet below 2x4 isn't something I would ever suggest but the chances are no one will ever know unless they take the wall out. Now the pad and carpet could make fastening the 2x4 to the concrete. That is something to think about. The most important thing is the carpet in the rooms. It was ...


3

In the United States, most building codes require a minimum dimension for wood studs in bearing walls is 2x4(nominal). The number of jack-studs varies with the size of building, the width of the opening, and the ground snow load from 1 to many. It is common for building codes to allow the use of approved framing anchors, in lieu of jack studs when only one ...


3

Now that I've seen the photos, it's clear to me that at least the jack studs should be replaced; fortunately, their replacement should be fairly easy. The one on the latch side could be replaced by a 4x4, but it should have a tiny "sill plate" attached to half its bottom end with contruction adhesive because otherwise it'll overhang the existing sill plate. ...


3

I don't think this is a great idea. The cabin kits you've found have the following major drawbacks that I can see: No insulation. You'll have unnecessarily high heating and cooling bills unless you plan to build where it's 75 and cloudy year-round. No real protection from water. When those boards get wet, so will the interior side, eventually. As soon as ...


3

In the UK, house construction is divided into separate stages "first fix" and "second fix" first-fix includes carpentry that the eventual occupier of the house won't see. For example the woodwork inside stud-walls. It is expected and normal that this isn't finished to the standard you would expect of a second-fix carpenter and not to the standard you would ...


3

I recommend that you should insulate this room like a basement: with rigid foam covering the exposed masonry walls, with the seams and edges sealed off to make it an air barrier. No need to frame anything at all if space is at a premium. I wouldn't frame anyway without rigid foam here, since the thermal bridging of the studs will compromise the insulation ...


2

Roxul batts do not compress a lot, well not nearly as much as traditional fiberglass. They are also pretty rigid. They can definitely go 6 feet or so in a wall cavity. I have used them to do what you are doing, when there aren't things in the way. I am guessing you believe you don't have cross bracing or electric/plumbing or obviously this won't work. I ...


2

I wouldn't build it that way in the first place. Hiding a dryer duct within a wall and venting it through the roof (I'm guessing here, but that's what it looks like to me) is just begging for nobody to clean it until it eventually catches fire and burns the house down. I recently re-did my utility room and discovered an in-wall rigid steel duct just like ...


2

The recommended rough opening for a 36" x 80" door, is 38 1/2" x 82". So you're basically looking at something like this. Basically, you'll have to fill the purple area with framing. Which means you might have to either use thin planks on the sides, or cut into the walls to install framing. The rough opening (blue) around the jamb (brown) will be left ...


2

I would normally say yes but it appears the 2x4 on the right is heavily notched in a weird fashion. I would keep blocking across from this to make sure that vertical 2x4 is stable. Not really sure you need a piece that big though.


2

Substantial changes to a load-bearing wall really an engineer's review. The consequences of getting it wrong are unacceptable. When it came time to take out a loadbearing wall in my place, I hired a contractor, who brought in an engineer to calculate exactly what size parallam beam would be needed to span the gap and how to provide the necessary support ...


2

Unless the existing window is leaking, the sole criterion for judging better and worse options in this case is the likelihood of future bulk water infiltration. The current installation is performing functionally and aesthetically as part of the building envelope. Breaching and patching the envelope is not a repair, and at best will only perform equally ...


2

There's no problem per-se with covering it up. However, with a windows there's lots of chances there for leaks. And since you can't see the window from the outside and it will be behind a wall inside, you probably won't be able to see any evidence of damage or leaks until it's too late and caused significant damage to your new walls and flooring. Based on ...


2

You will likely experience some bounce using a 2x4 joist even when on 12" centers. I would suggest 2x6 on 12" centers for a nice solid platform floor. With only a 5'6" width of the platform I think you will have tight work area up there considering a desk on the wall. If the desk is on the long wall I say you have a non-starter situation. If the desk is on ...


2

Furring around the beams with wood framing and then attaching Gypsum Ceiling Board or another finish material to the furring, is a common way of dealing with this sort of condition. In other words, furr out the sides and bottom of the beams with wood and attach the finish to the furring so that the ceiling varies in height because it is lower at the ...


2

Your hunch is correct - the anchor bolt in the picture obviously isn't doing a whole lot. If the scabbed on 2x4 bothers you, just remove it, cut the existing anchor bolt off flush with the concrete, and put in a new anchor through the center of the base plate.



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