Hot answers tagged framing
15
Yes, but not just for rigidity.
Cement board is made of, well, cement - and cement is brittle.
When you screw the cement board in you create a pressure point or stress point. Even though the board is screwed in with lots and lots of screws, each screw hole is a stress point prone to breakage.
By gluing the board as well as screwing, you ensure that a ...
13
The reason that joists are sistered using the same height of wood is simply space; generally there's no extra room. If you've got nothing below and there's space then there's no reason you can't use a taller piece of wood. Things to keep in mind:
Spanning as much distance as you can so you transfer the load as evenly across the original joist. If it's too ...
11
If this is a load-bearing wall you'll want to frame the pet door in, just like you would a window. This will allow you to properly carry the load down, and around the pet door.
The king studs should go all the way from the top plate, down to the bottom plate. The header will be made up of 1/2" plywood/OSB, sandwiched between two 2x4s.
If you don't want ...
7
Bifold rough openings: to the hinge (pivot ) side add 3/4", to the other other side, 1/4"
So for single 24" wide door, a 25" RO (which is really a finished opening for bifolds) is needed.
You need a bit more clearance on the pivot side, because the pivot is inboard a bit and it needs clearance to swing through (pivot around) the thickness of the door. ...
7
If you have a reciprocating saw (aka "Sawzall") with a metal or demolition blade it should make short work of the nails. Make your cuts at both ends of the vertical studs, between the stud and the header/footer. Once the nails are cut the vertical studs should come right out. You can probably just use a pry bar to pull off the header.
6
Jay's plan to use beam pockets in the front wall will work fine. Dbl. top plates with no additional structure supporting a roof over a SIX foot span (as per Tester101's first suggestion) is entirely inadequate. Whether a 2x beam on edge is adequate, and how deep it is, depends on what the roof snowload is, if any.
There are also hardware beam hangers ...
6
Look where the joists meet the ridge beam where you're going to put the door.
Get some dimensional lumber about 4 feet long, at least as thick as the existing beam. Nailing a couple of 2x6's together would probably suffice in the short term.
Give yourself enough room to work, and using a jack post and this 4 foot beam segment, support the joists in the ...
6
There should be no problem adding a partition wall under trusses or floor joists. The only connection you will need is some nails or screws holding the upper plate of your wall to the joists. This will simply hold your wall up and plumb. There are no structural or load considerations in this simple wall addition.
6
The most important question here is, 'do you have a building plan?" Building a structure with 13 to 14 foot walls and a 12 foot door is quite a reach for an inexperienced DIYer. You should start by selecting a set of building plans at your local lumber yard or maybe online. There are a lot more considerations than what size studs you should be using. You are ...
5
The closet doors are most likely listed in actual finished opening size. However it is a good idea to use a tape measure to check 100% for sure. Some doors are made a little oversize to allow trimming into final size for the specified opening size. Other doors may very well be made a small amount undersize to allow for the necessary clearances needed for a ...
5
Chris's advice to put a temp brace under a few joists is exactly right. Practically speaking, the 20 foot wall probably has a double 2X4 top plate and you will need to remove two studs to frame for your new 32 or 36 inch door. It is very unlikely that you will see any deflection of these 2X4's when you remove just two studs. Regardless, it is easy to put in ...
5
I have to say that I am no fan of cordless framer nailers. I have had two different ones, a Porter Cable and a Pasload. Both were gas fired. The PC was a disaster. Had lots of problems with the propane cells seating properly and nails jamming. Got the Pasload, worked OK, but slow and the smell was so bad that I only used it outdoors. The gas cells are ...
4
You're best off taking everything down, remeasuring at the new location, and putting the wall back up piece by piece. You'll want to pick the lumber that requires the least cutting to fit in the new location, but if the new location happens to have a higher ceiling (concrete floors aren't level and joists can sag in the middle) then you'll need to get new ...
4
pressure treated "PT" lumber is made for damp areas, where there's moister and direct contact to concrete or earth. Make sure to use the proper coated anchors for Pressure treated lumber. such as hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners. there's more detail about this below.. keep in mind pressure treated is not only a preservative it is also a ...
4
Couple possibilities I can think of (hard to tell without looking at a floor plan):
Floor was built over a larger area and then covered over.
Landing or base of the stairs was moved, possibly during early construction.
Floor or landing was intentionally extended to provide a shelf for storage.
Joists are continuing to a load bearing structure (wall of the ...
4
400 lbs is not so large (consider that 2 or 3 people standing close to each other could easily exceed that), but you must be careful not to mount the hammock in a way that compromises the joists. Since the hammock supports pull at a diagonal and not straight down, the force exerted at each contact point is actually much more than the weight of the occupants.
...
3
The second on is a better choice; in the first one, you have a lot of angles that will make it hard to carry the loads effectively. I would probably go with a 2x6 for the platform on the second deck to get your shape; that will get you 5.5" of difference in height. You could also go with a 2x8 for a 7.5" difference. 2x4 only gets you 2x4, and 3.5" is too ...
3
Option 1 is probably the best and 3 is the worst. Similar to drywall, you don't want a seam at the corner. This is where the load causes the most stress and therefore cracking.
For windows, it's the same. You install a full vertical piece as if the window isn't there, and make sure the seam isn't in the corner. Use a chalk line to mark the edges of the ...
3
One option is to build the shed, then use a 2x6 ledger board to attach doubled up 2x4s to the shed.
For a beefier solution, you could use doubled up 2x6s to span the gap.
You could also connect the ledger even with the top of the wall, and use double joist hangers to connect the doubled up 2x6s to the ledger.
You can attach the ledger using ...
3
I am not familiar with metric tables or codes in the UK, however there are lots of free online span/size reference tables for timber/type of wood, LAMS, and fabricated I-beams. I do urge caution if you are considering making your own I-beams. Fabricated beams have to meet specific standards for the type of woods, glues and fasteners. There are often made ...
2
One approach is an oversized pre-cased, split-jamb door. These have casings (room side moldings) pre installed to the jamb and are attached separately from each side. The joint in the middle is hidden by the stop (the molding that the door actually rests against when closed). This is a home center site describing the process.
These doors probably would ...
2
There is no problem flush framing the LVL in the ceiling as you suggest, provided it physically fits in the space available. If the LVL is placed directly over the 4x10, the ceiling joists will need to be cut to make room for the LVL. If this cutting keeps them from bearing on the 4x10, they need to be shored up until the LVL and hangers can be fitted. A ...
2
First off, a reality check; not trying to discourage you, just trying to set some expectations here:
First off, the actual pressures you're dealing with are very small. Absolute pressure is measured in Pascals; 1Pa = .0001psi. Your 80dB sound is inducing pressure changes of approximately .2Pa = .00002psi (that's two hundred-thousandths of a psi).
Second, ...
2
For an end grain glue joint to properly hold, the joint would have to be some sort of long scarf joint, just sawing it off and end gluing isn't enough, end-grain pulls out and yes, the glue is stronger than the end grain. You're not going to gain much with the extra work and it's probably not approved for use in this location.
Along with what @shirlockhomes ...
2
You can use a program to calculate the angles for your desired gambrel shape. Here is one such example:
http://www.easyrafters.com/gambrel.htm
As @Skaperen says, a basic gambrel is nothing more than 1/2 of an octagon.
Gambrel Types Easy Rafters groups gambrel roofs into two categories,
regular gambrels and custom gambrels.
A regular gambrel is ...
2
First off, I would avoid the step if at all possible, you are really cutting the functionality of your deck down by adding it, plus it is a tripping hazard.
You can visually separate the sections of your deck by changing the decking pattern and colours.
However, if you are dead set on the multi-level design then the second way is the obviously easier ...
2
As @TheEvilGreebo mentions, 2x6 is not enough for a floor that will be used as "habitable space". I know because when I remodeled my attic to convert it to a bedroom, the existing 2x6 floor joists (over a very similar span) were not enough and I had to sister them all.
At a minimum you will need to check with your local (municipal or county) building ...
2
This is a bad idea to try and build your own I joists. Often the building codes will defer to the manufacturers specifications for engineered materials like I joists, engineered beams and also engineered OSB board. This is done because every manufacturer is different and because these manufacturers generally have actual accredited engineers that are ...
2
The condition you outline is not uncommon. It usually results from humidity changes. Typically, the tolerances were a bit too tight when the house was built, not exactly squared or the door framing was not secured as tightly as it should have been.
Here are a couple of things you can do now to mitigate the problems.
Replace the center screw of each hinge ...
1
Corrosion would be one concern. Another would be carefully and slowly tightening the turnbuckles in a sufficient and even manner. Your rod could well deform the wall/roof if adjustments are done too quickly. Small adjustments over months. Perhaps a laser and mirror could give clues.
I used SS cable with stainless fittings for my leaning garage and ...
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