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9

You could use one of the many variations of the mortise and tenon joint, depending on the look you're going for. Though I agree with HerrBag, that the strength of a mortise and tenon joint should not rely on glue. Tusk Tenon This is a through tenon variation, where a wedge is used to lock the joint together. Fox tail (Wedged) Tenon This is another ...


8

The brace is providing lateral support. If you build a wall with the top and bottom plate plus some studs, it's easy to shift the wall out of square and turn it into a parallelogram. Under load, a house would take an 8' shift to one side and flatten to the ground. With the brace, the wall remains square and holds perpendicular walls plumb. In typical ...


7

No, I would not recommend nailing through carpet. Whether or not you prefer to, cutting the carpet and pad and removing them (under the wall) is the only right way to do this job. Baseboards on top of carpet will look like baseboards on top of carpet. If that's not how the rest of the baseboards are done, they will indeed look "off;" especially in the ...


5

Mortise and tenon joints do not need glue to be strong. If they fit tightly and are oriented properly to carry load through the post (like a stud) and the tenon stabilizes lateral loads, it only need to be secured with a peg or screw. Tester101's tusks would be good for the slats. I was envisioning table type aprons for the corners.. This photo shows ...


5

The wall seems to have 'full dimension' studs and the markings of old lath and plaster. I don't see plywood sheathing on the exterior walls. All in all I'm guessing that your house was built prior to WWII and is either 'post and beam' or 'balloon frame' construction, both of which are radically different in terms of structure and loads from modern ...


5

This is bracing that is needed for a shear wall. This provides lateral support, which is needed in areas prone to hurricanes and earthquakes. Typically, the plywood sheathing and drywall is all that is needed to provide shear support low risk homes. This kind of bracing is often turned on its side and let into the stud framing (notching the studs) rather ...


5

It's much easier to check that something is level than to check that something is 6 degrees or 1/4 inch higher. Build it level. Then add a 1/4 inch strip of wood (a length of lath or trim) across the inside edge of the horizontal framing member. You are correct that the sleeve will be sitting on two edges, the added trim strip and the outside edge of the ...


4

I know you already accepted, but I disagree with @bib on a few points that don't fit in a comment, so I'll provide my own answer. So long as you build a solid frame and connect it well, once installed there is really no chance of existing drywall being "crushed" by the frame. To crush the connecting drywall after installation, you'd need a very serious ...


4

Shear walls resist lateral loads like from an earthquake or hurricane. They are important parts of the building structure, even if they do not support any of the weight of the building in the traditional "load-bearing" sense (although they might). If that really is a shear wall, you must not modify it without the approval of an engineer or other qualified ...


4

There are probably various limitations per region and per type of code. It also depends on what we mean by 'conventional' framing. For stick framing (platform) it appears the limit is 5 stories primarily due to fire code: Source


4

There are general guidelines for dealing with cuts in wood framing. For load bearing the basics are that you can notch 25% of the stud or 40% diameter for a hole. Note: Notches should not be square - this provides a weak point in the stud. Half circle your notches if you can. Now there are ways around this if you need a bigger notch or hole. In my ...


4

Rip some strips of 1/8 hardboard (masonite) and tack them on the new studs. Or you could use plywood, but hardboard is usually less expensive, and less prone to giving you splinters when you rip a bunch of it.


4

As a home inspector, I can tell you that sheer existence of those damaged joists are going to be a RED FLAG at any time you decide to sell and move on. If they are badly burned, they are not structurally sound and should be removed. Install a few temp supports on ends of adjacent joists, then remove and replace them one or two at a time. Use proper joist ...


4

International Residential Code 2012 Chapter 6 Wall Construction Section R602 Wood Wall Framing R602.7 Headers. For header spans see Tables R502.5(1) and R502.5(2). So if you're on the top floor, you can use 2 2x4's (unless the building is 36' wide, in which case you'll need 2 2x6's). If you have a floor above, you'll need 2 2x6's ...


3

Rough openings are exactly as they are called, rough. Yours sounds extra rough though. All rough openings are made to have space to add shims, sometimes the rough openings, because of conditions, can only take shims on one side or the other. As a rule of thumb I usually do not use no more than 2 shims on a side. If the rough opening (RO) has need for more, ...


3

You need to box off that floor joist. You can remove an section of the joist in the way. You then build a box connecting the ends of the cut off joist to adjacent joists with perpendicular ties of the same dimensions of lumber. 2X10's for example. These ties transfer the load to the adjacent joists and give you an opening for plumbing or duct work.


3

I would knock that sucker out with impunity. If it is to serve some purpose, it most likely would not be code compliant. Fire blocking is the first thing that comes to mind, but it is only in one stud section.


3

Any framing that directly contacts concrete should be pressure treated. So option 3. Sealing is an optimistic concept at best, .vs. ensuring that there is proper drainage outside the basement, but you could certainly put construction adhesive on the bottom of the soleplate, it won't hurt.


3

I think the big issue is the carpet. Keeping a padding and old carpet below 2x4 isn't something I would ever suggest but the chances are no one will ever know unless they take the wall out. Now the pad and carpet could make fastening the 2x4 to the concrete. That is something to think about. The most important thing is the carpet in the rooms. It was ...


2

OK. You were right in all of you assertions. Really basic picture of a properly framed window. The contractor should not step foot in your house again. He is a moron. He can't even make a good excuse. Also and this is worse than the improper framing technique. The current layout is in no way set at right angles.


2

From looking at your pictures I can say that it was not done correctly. Sad part is that it is so easy to do it correctly when the studs are all open. There really should be doubled headers above and below the window. They should, in both cases, be resting on the top of studs that extend from the ends of the header down to a bearing surface all the way to ...


2

Drill a hole, or a recess, into the bottom plate of the prefab wall, so the bolts holding the sill plate to the concrete just slide right in/through. Or, drill a similar recess into the sill plate, recess the nut into the sill plate (probably with a washer to spread the load over the thinner wood), and grind/cut the bolt off level with the top of the ...


2

I have worked with engineers on shear walls in florida. I have seen many examples of the amount of shear protection. I have never seen a diagonal 1x6 used in an interior wall. For example just some cross bracing would provide much better protection. A layer of plywood under drywall would be better. My point is that unless we are missing something in the ...


2

Considering that you have a relatively high sideboard/headboard and footboard arrangement, that can be used to help strengthen the headers around the perimeter. The strength of a piece of 3/4" plywood, 21 plus inches tall on the sides alone with a small ledger to support the joists and bed slats is sufficient if all is glued and screwed together and has a ...


2

No, it's not ok to essentially cut a jack or king stud into two pieces. In addition to providing support to the wall from the door opening and closing, they are carrying all the load of the wall over the door via the header. You'll need to find a different location to run your drain line.


2

It might be good to consider a sliding dovetail. Edit 11/16/13 To assemble your bed frame, the M&T joints with captured bolts with nuts to hold the corners together with the legs. Just as a mention, a good hardwood needs to be used for the assembly. regular 2X4, 2X6s and other similar materials used in the construction of homes will be too soft, and ...


2

Why? You are going to have to seal and finish the edges where the new wall meets the existing walls and ceiling. To do that, you are going to compromise the area of the existing drywall. Why not trim out a channel in the existing drywall the width of your new studs so that you can get good, tight firm attachment points. The problem with butting framing up ...


2

I wouldn't build it that way in the first place. Hiding a dryer duct within a wall and venting it through the roof (I'm guessing here, but that's what it looks like to me) is just begging for nobody to clean it until it eventually catches fire and burns the house down. I recently re-did my utility room and discovered an in-wall rigid steel duct just like ...


2

Roxul batts do not compress a lot, well not nearly as much as traditional fiberglass. They are also pretty rigid. They can definitely go 6 feet or so in a wall cavity. I have used them to do what you are doing, when there aren't things in the way. I am guessing you believe you don't have cross bracing or electric/plumbing or obviously this won't work. I ...


2

Substantial changes to a load-bearing wall really an engineer's review. The consequences of getting it wrong are unacceptable. When it came time to take out a loadbearing wall in my place, I hired a contractor, who brought in an engineer to calculate exactly what size parallam beam would be needed to span the gap and how to provide the necessary support ...



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