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3

Besides safety and practicality mentioned by isherwood... part of the answer is money... the size of the hanger is related to the cost of the hanger. If you make or sell hangers in bulk, then every cent matters (customers like walmart and lowes will buy the hangers that are one cent cheaper per 100 boxes). If you only need to hold a certain weight, then ...


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Answer revised after realizing that the OP was asking specifically about top-mounted hangers. In the case of perlins, it's not usually a problem that they align slightly above the beam. Any subfloor or roofing should span that small gap without a problem. Why are the hangers not exactly 3-1/2" high inside? To give a slight margin for error with respect ...


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Those are simple L-angle joist hangers. I'm not sure if it's appropriate to use them like that, though... especially if you plan to use the stringer to support something (other than itself). In other words, the ground-support should be directly supporting the stringer and the joists should be resting on the stringer- unless you will not be using the ...


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Those are not the correct nails, period. A "Box" nail is thinner than a "Common" nail, and unsuitable for framing. Per chart found here, 0.162" .vs. 0.135" which is 144% more steel in the common nail (review geometry if you don't get that.) Box nails, being thinner, are easier to bend, as well; but predrilling can help if you are not a skilled framer - ...


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First, you'll want to place double studs on either side of your opening (currently you have some on the left but not right, as viewed from the kitchen). Then add horizontal members at the top and bottom of the opening, fastened into those studs. This will add a lot of rigidity by preventing the knee-wall studs from swinging left/right/out. Finally, add some ...


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With the "cable system", there are metal rods in the frame between windows that go the full height of the window and are tied into the frame. You connect a cable to an eye at the top of the window and run it back at an angle to the wall the window is installed in, above the window. The other end of the cable is fastened to a bolt that is securely fastened to ...


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Technically you're adding pin studs or trimmers under the header, and not kings, but yes. Insert the new trimmers before anything else and stand them vertical, then add the inner trimmers (assuming you want doubled studs for strength and trim backing). Move the trimmer pairs into position and toenail them to the header using either framing nails or ...


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What about just drywalling the faces of the 2x4s and letting it hang off, to fill that 2.5" gap? E.g., use a 6" wide strip. You should probably plywood the bottom sill for safety (yours and the cat's) before you drywall it. Use corner bead and mud it for a 'temporary-permanent' solution, after you do shove a little more insulation back there.


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That brace is almost certainly not needed. Diagonal lumber braces are an outdated method from back when walls were sheathed with individual boards, and not with modern structural sheet goods. Also, modern, sheathed and engineered truss roofs provide substantial diagonal bracing where it didn't exist with hand-framed rafter and board roofs. You don't say what ...


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Simpson Strong Tie makes an "Adjustable Truss Hanger" THA-Series.



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