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Now that I've seen the photos, it's clear to me that at least the jack studs should be replaced; fortunately, their replacement should be fairly easy. The one on the latch side could be replaced by a 4x4, but it should have a tiny "sill plate" attached to half its bottom end with contruction adhesive because otherwise it'll overhang the existing sill plate. ...


if the post is within the line of the walls: Blue is existing, red is nailing strips, green is bulkhead...


The only reason not to frame everything up would be logistics. If it would be hard to get the bathtub or drywall into the basement because of a framed wall in the way. Cost could be another factor. You would be staggering your project in a possibly inconvenient manner. It may also require extra sets of permits and inspections from the local gov't due to the ...


Depending upon the area that you live in the building structure may contain bracing such as this to help mitigate problems that can occur when earth quakes happen. So really make sure you check things out to determine if local building codes require that brace to be there. You could be in for future liability problems if you just remove it.


That can be answered only after a careful examination of the framing in that wall, and of lateral loading and determining whether other braces also exist within the wall. Best case you can remove that brace and never worry about it. Worst case the building could collapse.


Build a wall in front of the short wall with the studs oriented flat. Use a PT 2x2 for extending the sole plate. Block the end solid to the post with ripped studs as required to strengthen corner. Blocking is lumber used for additional nailing surfaces and/or to create rigidity in the direction perpendicular to the primary framing members. Solid blocking ...

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