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3

Ed Beal is right. Assuming something like #10 or #12 screws (as opposed to 3/8" lag screws, for example), even if they collide the second will merely glance off the first. It's not an issue. To avoid the situation altogether, simply offset by 1/4" or so.


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Think of it like 1) taller joists, or 2) the second level of a house (without the added load of a second floor). There's no reason why the load from the upper level can't be transferred through the lower level to the footings. As to size, the upper deck can be as large as the lower deck, and if there's no cantilever on the lower deck the upper can extend ...


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Not sure what you are asking, but the footings supporting the deck structure are in the ground under the posts that hold up the beams. Footing size, post size, beam size, joist size are all engineered to support the weight of the structure,and any distances spanned. If you look at some of the other photos on the website they show posts under the outer edge ...


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Putting the sheathing to the outside makes hitting backing easier when hanging drywall, etc. On the other hand, it may be easier to hang the verticals pre-assembled if the sheathing is to the inside, as you can then screw through the 2-by into the joists unobstructed. From a structural standpoint it does the job equally well inside or outside. Do whatever ...


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This is the typical structure of a hip-roof: As you can see, the ridge board, or ridge beam, is holding up the "jack rafters" at the top of the incline. Arguably the 4 diagonal boards - the hip rafters - are holding up the ridge board on their own, but simply for load bearing purposes, place supports under the ends of the ridge board (and possibly one in ...


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Studs are vertical. They are present to transfer the weight from the top plates (which are the top pieces that frame the wall) to the bottom plates, all of which then gets transferred to the next level down. Beams and top plates are similar in function but beams carry more load over a wider span, and usually rest on either solid walls (foundation walls) or ...


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Those are not the correct nails, period. A "Box" nail is thinner than a "Common" nail, and unsuitable for framing. Per chart found here, 0.162" .vs. 0.135" which is 144% more steel in the common nail (review geometry if you don't get that.) Box nails, being thinner, are easier to bend, as well; but predrilling can help if you are not a skilled framer - ...


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For framing a deck where you cannot see the nails, an external product is desired. A galvanized framing nail will not rust where a standard framing nail will rust and potentially eventually fail. For areas you CAN see, I prefer screws, as they won't pull out and can be screwed flush. It may also be worth it to rent a compressor and framing nailer for a ...


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What about just drywalling the faces of the 2x4s and letting it hang off, to fill that 2.5" gap? E.g., use a 6" wide strip. You should probably plywood the bottom sill for safety (yours and the cat's) before you drywall it. Use corner bead and mud it for a 'temporary-permanent' solution, after you do shove a little more insulation back there.


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This would depend on if you're building a dog house, shed, home or villa. You are asking for specific answers about an obscure subject. Gather your information about the project and speak with a Qualified and Licensed Engineer in the jurisdiction that you will be doing the work.


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I generally agree with Ed Beal regarding lumber quality. My personal standards wouldn't allow use of such lumber. Regarding your question... For field studs, as little as half an inch should be fine. Much smaller than that and the sheet will begin to deform around the sharpened edge of the lumber when the screws are set, causing waves in the wall and ...


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There are many species of wood that are naturally insect and moisture resistant. Redwood comes to mind. People used this for decks long before pressure treated came along. Just install it as you would PT wood with a sill plate gasket. Good luck!


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When you drive the first screws, drive at 1 times your measure and 2 times your measure. Turn the corner and drive at 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 your measure of your measure. (Pick your measure to fit your space). For example if you have a five inch space to fasten, screw first 1 and 3 inches from the bottom, turn the corner and screw 2 and 4 inches from the bottom


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I have used wet rags / towels and a heat gun if I take two long in making bent wood "butcher block" counter tops. With bad 2x4" I will use them in shorter pieces for fire blocks (ok now 2x6) or find other uses because if not dried straight they may twist again if only anchored at top and bottom in a wall. If you have a large number I did see 1 contractor ...


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If the 2x4 is not too twisted, then you can probably just use a clamp or a block. Start by fastening one end of the stud in place, and then use one nail to fasten the other end. The nail should be placed such that one of the edges of the stud is centered (as it should be). The other edge (lets call it edge B) will not be on center until a clamp or block is ...


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The tree will generally grow larger in diameter centered around the existing trunk....at least for the foreseeable future. Larger / older trees may at times grow out more to one side versus another but the factors that cause them to do that are probably complex and may have more to do with how the canopy of the tree develops or how the tree gets damaged or ...


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You're going to want to remove the trim joist, and let the new joists rest on the support beam. The other end of the joists will rest on whatever new support structure you add.


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The purpose of a ledger board is to give you surface onto which you can nail/attach the rest of the deck (and flashing to keep water out of a house- usually). Your question is, do you need it for attaching two decks. I think the answer to this is a decision for personal convenience, tools, or need. I personally don't undersand the use of a ledger board here ...


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I think you have misinterpreted the picture in your posting. The OSB is not really on the "inside" of the soffit. Instead that part of the soffit in the picture was constructed using some I beam structural members that are made with OSB material notched into upper and lower 2x4s (or possibly a 2x3s). The fact that they show the flat 2x4 over the splice ...



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