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6

The reason for a rough opening is so that it CAN be rough in dimensions. Your opening should be no problem. Rough openings are made larger to accommodate headers and floors than out of level, adjacent studs that may be out of plumb, framing lumber that has thickness variations, openings that are slightly out of square and maybe some other things I've not ...


3

That's possibly just humidity warpage and not due to load stress. That nail wasn't intended as a structural component. It probably just held the post up until there was something on it. At any rate, no, you don't need to jack up the beam. That amount of bend results in approximately 0.0" of settling in the beam. I'd watch it and see if it moves any more. ...


3

The angle is not particularly important. With sufficient ground stability and fastening, you could do it with a zero angle: a beam supported by a pair of posts. For each configuration with a greater angle, the need for strength in the supports and anchoring decreases. When the angle is 180 degrees, the system is completely stable without any anchors at ...


3

Generally for interior doors the RO (Rough Opening) is 2 inches wider than the door slab. This gives 3/4" for the jamb and 1/4" of 'play' for each side, for you to adjust the jamb to make the door operate properly. So if you've got 29 13/16 instead of 30, you'll end up with a little over 1/4 of play total instead of 1/2. Still should be plenty if your jacks ...


2

There's a built-in gap in the height and width of the opening. so trimmer/king plumb parallel to the wall's length isn't crucial (to a degree). It's far more critical to get the wall itself plumb perpendicular to the rough opening. Nearly everything else can be shimmed out later, assuming reasonably accurate dimensions. Using a level of adequate length (to ...


2

If you look closely at the boards on the inside, you will see they are overlapping, the top edge being behind the bottom edge of the board above (behind when viewed from the outside). This is standard clapboard type construction (although many modern clapboards have a tapered upper edge and the overlap is much greater). Rain tends to drip off the lower edge ...


2

With the narrower angle (15), they add cross supports. The wider angle (30) is given with no supports. Making a stable swing set is no joke. Unless it is part of a larger structure that weighs it down, the legs need to be anchored in concrete. When I was a kid I used flimsy backyard swing sets and could easily rock the whole swing set, frame and all, back ...


1

Provided the mount and cables allow the monitor to be readily removed to gain access to the box, this should not be a Code issue -- the basic requirement is that all junction boxes be readily accessible (i.e. you shouldn't have to tear apart the building to find 'em).


1

There is no place in the code book that I can recall that requires 12" centers for a bearing wall. You can move over the studs to a 16" center, rather than making a header. If you choose to. The drywall will make it a little tough to do that...


1

hard to say without knowing more about the floor plan. Maybe they're in a longer section of floor. Maybe there are plumbing fixtures that required a shift in layout. Who knows? It doesn't much matter whether you use one header or three, but you'll want trimmer studs supporting it or them between each pair of doors. Otherwise you'd need to size the header ...


1

It is a little hard to tell from the pics, but I think I see that the 4X6 made of 2X4's has bowed slightly and I see what appears to be a single nail a little over halfway up pulled out of the concrete. This may have been caused by the wood drying and warping a bit and pulling out the only nail. I do not believe it is load related. Be sure all three 2X4's ...


1

It is not redwood it looks like fir. At the age of the house almost the wood was fir back then. Nice tight grain like what you have is almost impossible to purchase now unless you just won the lottery.


1

I am not sure about your location. If you are in the far north it is a great policy to insulate your basement floors - rigid foam sheets and OSB is certainly a great way to do it and probably the easiest. However if you are in a mixed climate, I am not sure what you are looking for out of the insulated floor. The energy savings will not be there as cool ...



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