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I don't think there is any specification for minimum distance from the structure. It just has to be driven in a full 8 feet. Probably you will want to avoid driving it through the footing, though I suppose you could if you pre-drilled it. In your case, maybe you want to run the ground wire around the corner to a more convenient place to install the ground ...


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The grounding electrode conductors can be used to allow installation of the grounding electrode sufficiently far from the structure to avoid the footings. There is little point in speculating in regard to the size and configuration of existing foundations. However an reasonable estimate might be made using excavations on one or more other areas of the ...


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As @shirlockHomes said, driLoc is your best patch solution. The only true preventative is to excavate around the outside of your foundation and seal that surface, and / or place another impervious moisture barrier like a plastic sheeting.


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The new support structure with a beam that you are proposing sounds fine. If you are concerned, then overdo it by doubling the materials for the beam, or placing a steel L-rod 3/8" thick around the beam. Using an L-rod will reduce the number of bolts that you need to put through it into the beam, and will add structural support due to the angle. The more ...


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If your foundation is sound you only need to ensure that the grade allows any surface water to flow away. Earth is designed to absorb water, and foundations are designed to be in contact with moist earth. The only legitimate application of plastic is as a moisture barrier against poured cement. What you've done here with plastic serves no practical ...


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No handy references, (I was taught, as grunt labor, by a licensed civil engineer and former SeaBee, but I don't know which books it might have come from to him, or if any of them are on the web) but backfilling with something like road base (crushed rock including fines so it will pack well) and tamping it very well in thin layers (if you tamp 6" of fill, ...


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Personally, I would dig the topsoil out from under the blocks—preferably down to mineral soil so that almost all of the concrete is buried. This makes less of a step up for wheeled equipment and less space for critters and weeds to grow underneath. I put mine very close to the ground on concrete blocks with slots for 2 inch wide lumber and concrete ...


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Do you really need to remove it? If this is in a mild climate, you could simply place the deck pier on top of it and secure it, perhaps by drilling into the tie and attaching with spikes, cable, etc. to get more stability. If the frost level is mid-tie, I think that having the tie partially below frost level is good enough to ensure stability. Otherwise, ...


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If you want a new toy, a dual blade circular saw would fit in the hole and easily eat through the wood and nails. http://m.harborfreight.com/5-in-double-cut-saw-68316.html You'll still need to get new blades afterwards, and a new lubricating stick most likely, but it'll be safer than a chain saw and less time and a better working angle than a ...


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I've used a sawzall type reciprocating saw with the 14" long demolition style blades for similar type wood removal in the ground. Be prepared to replace the blade a few times as cutting into dirt can mess up the teeth after a while. With the saw like this you should be able to cut completely through the old timber without having to do any chiseling in ...



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