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As @shirlockHomes said, driLoc is your best patch solution. The only true preventative is to excavate around the outside of your foundation and seal that surface, and / or place another impervious moisture barrier like a plastic sheeting.


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The new support structure with a beam that you are proposing sounds fine. If you are concerned, then overdo it by doubling the materials for the beam, or placing a steel L-rod 3/8" thick around the beam. Using an L-rod will reduce the number of bolts that you need to put through it into the beam, and will add structural support due to the angle. The more ...


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If your foundation is sound you only need to ensure that the grade allows any surface water to flow away. Earth is designed to absorb water, and foundations are designed to be in contact with moist earth. The only legitimate application of plastic is as a moisture barrier against poured cement. What you've done here with plastic serves no practical ...


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No handy references, (I was taught, as grunt labor, by a licensed civil engineer and former SeaBee, but I don't know which books it might have come from to him, or if any of them are on the web) but backfilling with something like road base (crushed rock including fines so it will pack well) and tamping it very well in thin layers (if you tamp 6" of fill, ...


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Personally, I would dig the topsoil out from under the blocks—preferably down to mineral soil so that almost all of the concrete is buried. This makes less of a step up for wheeled equipment and less space for critters and weeds to grow underneath. I put mine very close to the ground on concrete blocks with slots for 2 inch wide lumber and concrete ...


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Do you really need to remove it? If this is in a mild climate, you could simply place the deck pier on top of it and secure it, perhaps by drilling into the tie and attaching with spikes, cable, etc. to get more stability. If the frost level is mid-tie, I think that having the tie partially below frost level is good enough to ensure stability. Otherwise, ...


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If you want a new toy, a dual blade circular saw would fit in the hole and easily eat through the wood and nails. http://m.harborfreight.com/5-in-double-cut-saw-68316.html You'll still need to get new blades afterwards, and a new lubricating stick most likely, but it'll be safer than a chain saw and less time and a better working angle than a ...


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I've used a sawzall type reciprocating saw with the 14" long demolition style blades for similar type wood removal in the ground. Be prepared to replace the blade a few times as cutting into dirt can mess up the teeth after a while. With the saw like this you should be able to cut completely through the old timber without having to do any chiseling in ...


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It looks like EIFS, Exterior Insulation Finish System, placed over a pink sheet of fiberglass foundation drain board. EIFS is not made to go at or below grade. I am not a pro of this material, but I have never seen it applied over a fiberglass sheet. There was a post I answered sometime back, about how to repair EIFS that I did not format properly and still ...


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Damp Proof Membrane To prevent dampness getting through a ground bearing concrete floor should be protected by an impervious layer, usually a 1200 gauge (0.3mm) heavy duty polythene damp-proof membrane. The DPM can be positioned either on the sand blinding or on the concrete slab. Joints in a Polythene DPM should be welted or taped and should overlap by at ...



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