New answers tagged flooring
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Wet a small area and see what that does. Methinks that the thinset is so old that a little moisture will help break the bond to the wood. This won't hurt the wood as long as you do all of the steps and dry it up in a timely manner. I would then half-ass scrape it off. Meaning don't gouge your wood and if a little stays then so be it. Then dry things if ...
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Buy or rent a pneumatic Air Hammer and get a wide flat chisel attachment for it. The wider the the chisel the faster you can get the job done. If you don't own an air compressor you'll need to purchase or rent that too and don't forget you'll need hearing protection if you go this route.
I've used scrapers before and they do work but I would consider them as ...
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Scraper. This is going to be a tough job if you want to keep damage to the wood to a minimum. It does look like the floor has some type of finish on it before the grout material was applied. This should help a lot to make the scraping removal a bit more practical.
Note that what ever type of scraper that you use will likely need replacement or resharpening ...
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I would glue the guide bar down with construction adhesive on top of the moisture barrier - given that your moisture barrier is pretty tight. Wait a day. If it is pretty solid then I would put the t-molding in with construction adhesive too... tons of glue and the t-molding with a good amount of weight on it for at least 12 hours. You do need to make ...
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There are several effective ways to hold the molding in place if you were OK with screwing it in place. One good way I would try would be to follow these steps:
Cut and fit the molding into length and shape for the spot it would get installed.
Check out the fit and see how well it fits down to the flooring on each side. Note any places where it takes a ...
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I have done 2 hardwood floors using Dricore. We called Dricore and they walked us through what we needed to do. We had to secure the dricore with Tapcon screws.
Neither of these installed was a basement. Not sure if I would go this way in a basement unless I was very sure that there was no possible moisture issues.
Also I heavily suggest doing one of ...
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An architect friend in Mexico City had put wood floors over concrete but he put wood spacers to separate the two. It worked quite well for him, as he did almost his entire first floor with them.
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First a 1/2" seems like a huge expansion gap. Most are 1/4" or the measurement of the thickness of the floating floor. I guess it really depends on the size of the room and what kind of wood.
It is perfectly OK to undercut your drywall - you might have to add a few strategic screws if you cut screws out. I have done this in the past. However something ...
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You can but the if its an exterior facing wall you'll likely cut the vapor barrier if you don't use the proper tool. I recommend the Fein Multimaster for this. It has a depth stop gauge attachment so you cut just enough of the drywall without penetrating all the way through. The segment saw blade is best for this. A ton of companies are making knock offs of ...
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1/2 expansion gap total gives you 1/4 on each side, which should be easily covered by the moulding.
That said, yes you absolutely can trim the drywall to allow the wood floor to expand. An engineered floor, though, likely doesn't need more than 1/4" on each side. It should be dimensionally stable.
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