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16

1X stock is fine if you have 16 inch on center joists, and the joists are themselves sized properly. Using 2X stock over undersized joists does help make the deck feel more solid. If you have 24 OC joists, I'd definitely stay with the 2X decking. An other option if you have wider joist spacing is to add a joist between each one if possible, then you can use ...


15

First, let me state that I am NOT a fan of laminate flooring. Laminate flooring comes in a wide variety of quality levels, from extremely poor to fairly good, but share a common trait. They are always a "picture" of wood on some pressed paper or synthetic backing. They can be miserable to work with, easily damaged and almost impossible to repair after ...


12

Anything rigid you put over a flimsy structure will be destroyed over time because it won't have the support it needs. Most tiles (except plastic/vinyl) don't handle bending well. Self leveling compound doesn't add rigidity, it just makes a smooth top surface. You need to fix the structure first. That means going down before you go up.


11

If you really want to try to save the plank, BMitch's instructions for removal are spot on but instead of a circular saw, get yourself one of these babies: The square blade shown here will give you clean end cuts, and for your long run, this blade will be your friend: You'll get very straight, TIGHT cut lines along the seams, be practically invisible ...


11

If you have acess to Dremel or other rotary tool you can use a cutoff /abrasive wheel attachment to cut them off. They may have been inserted by a power tool that fires them in with a gunpowder charge. If this is the case prying them out will be difficult if not impossible. You could try a Sawzall but these type of fasteners are very hard and you will go ...


11

Solid wood flooring in a wet area is inherently risky due to the moisture everywhere. Pine flooring (a moisture-absorbent softwood) is inherently risky to install. Solid boards are inherently more prone to cupping than engineered boards. Gluing a wood floor to concrete is inherently risky because concrete is a big sponge that absorbs and releases moisture ...


10

I'm surprised no one has mentioned it yet, but I've always heard it is better to install laminate flooring perpendicular to the floor joists in the room. Often the subfloor can be slightly unlevel due to high points running along the joists and low points halfway between the joists. If your laminate flooring is parallel to the joists, it will simply follow ...


10

Is cutting out the flooring where the cabinets will be not an option? You don't mention it, so maybe there's a reason, but that's the method that would get you the best attachment for your cabinets, while still allowing the flooring to float and move as it's designed. You could make these cuts with a circular saw set to just the right depth. For the ...


10

Humidity is more likely to be a problem than temperature - constant high temperature is OK, it's temperature changes that are an issue. Hardwood floors are nice and warm when it's cold - you might want a think about why cold stone tiles are popular there


10

If there's a door, under the door, directly. Otherwise, either dead center or even with one edge or the other. If there's no door, I'd say bring the carpet up to the edge of the tile, rather than cutting the tile to meet in the middle. That said - it's a purely aesthetic choice.


10

In your situation, using real 3/4" hardwood flooring should be a lifetime floor. I cannot see any reason to remove it as any other type of flooring in the future could be installed right over it. Since it is much more likely to have some type of cabinet upgrade rather than actually needing to remove the hardwood, I would install the hardwood wall to wall ...


10

I don't see any nail-heads or screw-heads in the carpet edge trim, so you probably have one like this: You might be able to save it, but they're cheap so I'd just replace it with a new one. Pry it up taking care not to damage the door trim. The carpet in the door opening should be loose enough that you can get access to the linoleum underneath (there ...


10

There is a whole new generation of fiberglass, not vinyl, flooring that is self laying. The various manufacturers say wit will lay flat, not curl or bubble without adhesive. I have my doubts, but admit I have not used it without adhesive. The manufacturer does says that when adhesive is used, it can only be "Releasable Pressure Sensitive Adhesive", never ...


10

They are referred to as "Nail on Glides" at my local hardware store. They can be found near the other hardware like the hinges, locks, and door stops.


10

Surface finishes are notoriously difficult to get smooth when the process is interrupted. The glossier the finish, the harder to have sections blend. If you are talking about preliminary coats, especially if they will get a light sanding between coats, this is probably ok. For the finish coat, I would strive hard to do it all in one shot. If you simply ...


10

First of all, I disagree with your orientation. But, it is your choice, and I'll respect that. You may want to read this: http://diy.blogoverflow.com/2012/09/installing-laminateengineered-wood-floating-floors/ Pay close attention to the pre-measuring, so that you avoid having a 1 inch board running along either wall. The idea is that you never want to ...


9

Framing is typically build on top of the subfloor. The finish flooring runs to within about 1/2" of the framing, then the gap is covered by baseboard. The gap is supposed to allow for expansion and contraction of the flooring with changes in temperature and humidity; without the gap, if the wood swells, the only way for it to go is up, i.e. pulling away ...


9

At the risk of sounding like an old school hold back, I gotta weigh in on laminate flooring. I have installed thousands of square feet of various wood and laminate flooring. Even though the new laminates tout the hard durable finishes and long warranties, the common weakness of laminate is that it is a picture of wood on some type of paper or synthetic base. ...


9

You should not need to remove the existing nails. Driving a new screw into the joist adjacent to the nails should be sufficient. You may need to countersink the screws to get them to sit flush.


9

Well it depends on the output of the radiant floor, but in general yes they are sufficient to heat a room. We have underfloor heating (hot water with heat spreader plates under floorboards) in our upstairs rooms and they warm the rooms quite well. The floors are warm to touch (as would be expected). The temperature of the room is more uniform the heat is ...


9

Pull out the carpets. never put a subfloor over something like old carpet. You may not have any moisture problems now, but any occurrence of water (flood, broken plumbing, spill) getting in that hidden carpet in the future will cause you more grief than you could dream of. This would be a perfect situation to grow mold, mildew, stink and rot the wood ...


9

It depends on a couple of things. How much time you want to invest, how your current baseboards are installed, size of current baseboards, and what you want everything to look like. As long as it isn't a HUGE deal to take baseboards out I would almost always go with removing them. Your finish will look better. No quarter round looks way more ...


9

Your problem is obvious. Moisture is migrating up from the slab. I don't imagine anyone suggested to do a moisture check on the concrete before you started? There are meters that can measure the % of moisture in concrete. With that said, it is never a good idea to put wood or laminate directly on concrete slabs or uncured concrete upper floors. In your ...


8

In Massachusetts, attic floors must support at least 30 lbs/ft² live load (the same as bedroom floors) if the attic is accessed by means of a fixed stairway (780 CMR 5502.3.1). Use a span table to determine the necessary joist dimensions, given their span length, spacing, wood species, and grade. For example, if your floor joists are 2x6 spaced 16 inches ...


8

Great question! My wife and I were examining laminate flooring a little while ago too. Not all of them are alike -- here are some things to consider. Check the warranty. Cheaper laminate will usually have a shorter warranty with more conditions (e.g. 10 - 15 years only protecting factory defects). More expensive laminate will usually cover more ...


8

Depending on how un-level, and the sub-floor material/condition, one option would be to use self-leveling compound. You pour it over the entire floor, it "finds" level (it has a viscosity that allows it to flow until it begins to harden) and let it set up. And Voila! level subfloor.


8

Yes indeed, prep is required and very important. First step is to renail or screw down the plywood subfloor. If you have a pneumatic frame nailer, you can use 2 1/2 inch threaded, ring nails (never use common nails), or alternately use 1 5/8 inch drywall screws. Install your nails or screws every 8 to 10 inches apart along each joist line with special ...


8

Usually you can hand toenail all but the last two rows, thus hiding the nails. Pre-drill pilot holes just above the tongue (same angle and placement as nailer would have done) and set the nails. You can use a wedge and blocks to tighten and hold the slats for nailing. The last couple of rows should be glued and face nailed. Counter sink the nails and fill ...



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