Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

5

Flat is an option. I'm not altogether clear on what scheme you think you were following, or what you think it was doing for you, but it sounds suspiciously like something someone dreamed up and presented as fact, with a dubious or non-existant basis in reality. A slope does not "create tension." A load does that. Buildings on post foundations are made ...


3

Remove the entire shower door and frame and scrub door opening tile and door/frame assembly completely clean and let dry. Re-install shower door properly and completely seal all areas where frame and tile meet with high-grade silicone caulk. Most swinging shower doors are supposed to have a vinyl flap at the bottom to prevent water spray from escaping under ...


2

Low-E windows will go a great job, and help with many energy losses. A rug will always be better than just about anything, covered places on just about anything will take less abuse than uncovered surfaces. Minwax has always been my favorite for anything I can put it on. Their naming conventions are not always the most clever. 'Minwax Super Fast-Drying ...


2

I have seen 3/4" thick hardwood floors go over 1/2" subfloor with no problem. Your floor structure is plenty heavy to carry any load you apply to it. In many older homes (really old homes) there was no subfloor at all, and the floors held up very well. Remove the layer of MDF, clean up the nails, and reset all the nails that are in the subfloor. This ...


1

I had a similar situation when I redid my basement - couldn't put baseboard in to hide the gap between the doorway and the laminate flooring at the entry door. The most common solution I've seen in images I found on the web and in my chosen home improvement store was to use color coordinated T-moulding along the doorway right up against the bottom sill. I'd ...


1

I have placed Dricore or its equivalent on 2 different jobs. Both are holding up fine, neither felt hollow or creaky. One was in a basement slab, the other was placed on a slab on grade such as yours. The only difference is one had 4" to 10" wide plank flooring from recovered barn wood, the other 2 1/4" strip. While the subfloor was being laid, I glued the ...


1

If you can locate your floor joists, you can use a longer, ~2-2.5" finish nail and nail both finish floor and subfloor to the joist. Once the subfloor is tightened down, you can spot nail the finish floor to the subfloor as needed. I did that in my 1928 house and it worked.


1

The leveling compound pictured is used underneath a finish floor. The minwax/ bondo solution would provide a durable fix that you could walk on. So I guess it depends on whether you'll throw something over the top of the fix...


1

As long as the asbestos material is contained between your subfloors you are fine. It doesn't matter if it crumples up being sandwiched in there. You may have to take extra precautions taking it out in this case but it isn't a concern in current state.



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible