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We generally don't recommend self leveling alternatives on a substrate other than concrete, vibrations over time can affect their stability. Best option is shims and plywood. That being said, you're asking for a self leveling option. Your best bet would self leveling concrete, you'll need to pay attention to the substrate requirements, it says it accepts ...


Floor drains should have a grate. Placing your drain pipe so that it pours through the grate will protect your floor drain but the grate will eventually clog. Make sure you can see and remove any gunk buildup. Regardless of your floor drain's capacity (to handle the flow rate from your sink, tub or whatever), consider placing a ball valve in the piping ...


2 1/4 inches height difference could be made up with 2 x 4's on their side screwed in and glued over the existing joists and 3/4 OSB sub-floor on top. That will be 1/32 lower than the abutting sub floor when you take into account the actual thickness of the lumber. You could use 2x2's, but often they're more expensive than 2x4s Glue and screw everything ...


I have never seen subfloor that narrow, or run that close together in an old house. It has always been 1X6 or 1X8 with a 1/2" to 3/4" gap between boards. In some cases it has been 1X6 T&G loosely laid together. Also in many cases laid diagonally. In my opinion, this was intended to be the finish floor that shrank excessively and perhaps face nailed at ...


the gaps between boards are too big. It was not meant to be the finished floor. looks like pine, fir or something similar.


That appears to be a subfloor (softwood, plain edges, face-nailed.) It's a good place to put a finish floor (hardwood, parquet, etc) and not a very good finish floor itself, no matter what you coat it with. Softwood finish-floors are not unheard of, but that isn't one, IMHO.

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