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11

A pump can operate continuously to move water between two locations. The wet vac will suck water into the cannister, but you'll need to continuously stop, and dump that water, before it reaches the top of the vacuum. If you're looking at a flooding risk, I'd want the pump.


7

General practice is going 6 inches above molded area and cut it out. You must inspect the backside of the drywall. If you can't you need to keep cutting out until you hit 6 inches of unaffected wall. You then need to follow a mold remediation plan - not sure how anything else in the wall looks but useless replacing the drywall if you will put up new ...


7

Some Shop Vacs have a "water pump" feature. You can attach a garden hose to a side port on the vac, and rather than just dumping the water in the canister, it will actually pump the water to another location. http://www.shopvac.com/wet-dry-vacs/default.aspx?feature=12&featureName=Water+Pump If you do not have such a vac, you can suck water until the ...


6

For the case of the power outages, there's basically two options -- UPS or other battery backup for the sump pump. (which only helps for as long as the batteries hold out) A water powered sump pump As for the flash flood issues -- you might be able to either regrade the area to change the catchment area that drains towards the door, and possibly add a ...


6

From the looks of it, water could run right around your grate to the door. If the walkway is sloped toward the grate on both sides, that would probably help when the rain is light, but when it is heavy it will run right around it. I would install a grate that runs across the whole width of the walkway. Under the grate, I would have a trench about a foot ...


5

In addition to the other comments, the garden hose may also be causing the problem. It may not allow enough flow of water to leave the basin fast enough. We have 1.5" pvc leaving the sump pump and that pipe discharges into the yard. Can you use the PVC that you said you have going into the yard instead of having the hose in the PVC?


4

EDIT: Comments above say that you have 1-2" of water. There is no solution for this other than fixing the drain. (Or going to marine style doors with a raised threshold.) What I've describe below can mitigate minor flooding, but won't help with the serious issue you seem to be having. ORIGINAL ANSWER: The proper long term answer is to fix the the ...


4

Assuming you can't get the political problem solved (letters to the editor time, perhaps), you need to address the part where "driveway sits low so all the rain comes in like a river" (though you might also take the practical citizen approach and see if there's anything blocking the ditches and drains that you can, as concerned citizen, remove on your own.) ...


4

Before you jump too far, you should figure out the exact source of the water. When you're talking about puddles and streams, I'm thinking leaks and cracks, and not moisture coming through the concrete. To check for moisture in the concrete, tape a large square piece of clear vinyl down using duct tape (at least a foot square) at a time when the floor is ...


4

DA's comment is correct. If water has gotten to your house all you can hope to do is minimize the damage...water WILL get in if it is up against the door. The best bet (a picture of the area in question would be useful) would be to build up the ground around the house to add a barrier to keep water off the house in the first place. That may or may not be ...


3

Water damage isn't easy to deal with, here are the steps off the top of my head: Shutoff the water Get the water out, via floor drains, buckets, submersible pump, or a shop vac. I'd recommend the shop vac for being a fairly handy tool everyone should own. Dry the area, and remove anything damaged by the water. Use fans, open windows, and/or dehumidifiers ...


3

Contact three or four local drainage contractors and ask if they will come out and give you a quote to solve the problem. You'll learn what methods they would employ, their guarantee, and cost. Then you can make an informed decision.


3

Instead of patch repair solutions for the ductwork in the foundation, have you considered looking into quotes to add new ductwork along the ceiling of your walkout basement by branching off the ductwork under the house on top of the hill. You could then add ceiling vents that should never have water issues. In the short term, this could be a costlier ...


2

On some TV show I was watching, they showed the cleanup of a house with a severe mold problem. The procedure was to strip everything back to the studs and subfloor and clean with a media-blaster. Instead of sand, they used small dry ice pellets. It basically took off the top layer of wood from the studs and rafters. Since it was dry ice, there was no ...


2

Yes, this is definitely home improvement material. What's the terrain like around your house? Could you dig a trench sloping downhill from the low point in your basement to "daylight" (ie, somewhere, like a ditch the water could drain away to without a pump?) As for it getting worse, could something have clogged up to cause more water to come in - your ...


2

You removed the 1 way check valve, likely part of the pump, when you cut the line to the pump. Your sump being low, already had a syphon ready to go, it just needed one last push to get started. The pump of one of your neighbors started and everything in the pipes of all 4 pipes came flowing into your sump. Your son witnessed an excellent lesson in ...


2

First off, your friend should definitely talk to his landlord about the flooding. Even if the landlord won't address it, it's possible your friend could be held liable for water damage from the flooding if he doesn't notify the landlord. There are two big differences between the pump you need here and a normal sump pump. The first is that it won't be run ...


2

Problem #1: You have under-slab ducts. These are bad because they can flood, harbor mold, and increase the dampeness of the house, and let in creepy-crawlies. Problem #2: when it rains, water gets under your slab--and floods the ducts! This means you have very poor drainage and a high water table. The best solution to this problem would be to seal up your ...


1

Since it is constantly filling, then it sounds like you either have a really high water table, or there is a natural spring nearby. Either way, you have a big problem on your hands. You should find the source of the water and mitigate it before doing any further construction. They ran into this problem on one of the homes they were building on Hometime and ...


1

It all depends on what type of foundation it is, i.e. cement pad, basement, crawl space? Was there water present when the footers were being poured? Is there a crawl space or basement? How deep are the footers?


1

Pumping the water above ground, or below ground doesn't matter. Moving the water far enough away (downhill) from the house is the key. If your plumbing is underground, it has to go somewhere. The pipe can't just come to an end. You'll want to drain into a dry well, ditch, storm sewer, spillway, stream, etc. If your pumping out onto the ground. You'll ...


1

I know that my answer will not be a proper one (ok, you may downvote if you wish...), but my experience tells me that it's a serious problem. Cracks on walls always tell that something serious is around. My advice is to find a civil engineer/specialist to make a proper judgement of this matter. I strongly reccomend that, and I guess that this question will ...


1

Honestly that seems fine to me. For added peace of mind, you can spray it with bleach. If you live in a particularly dry and sunny climate, you could also leave it out in the sun on some concrete. I live in the desert and this works great; the sun dries and disinfects anything in hours. What you should be more worried about is your drywall. Poke it with ...


1

I had a similar problem, I made a 1" high, 3" wide concrete bump using some angled wood strips to hold it until set. The two strips were joined using small cross-bracing pieces of wood screwed from above. The strips were something like a 6 or 7 foot length of 2x1" wood at about 45 degrees to the ground. I made the concrete bump in sections that length. I ...


1

Glue-down garage door seal (sometimes called threshold seal) sounds like what you want. A rubber bump.


1

If water is coming up through the pipe then it is because either your sewer is clogged, you septic tank is full or the leaching field has failed. What you are seeing is a sewage backup. It could be ground water entering your septic tank, or it could also be sewage from elsewhere in the house. The basement toilet is the lowest drain in the house and this is ...


1

It's best if you can figure out where the water is coming from and try to stop it. A lot of times you can solve these sorts of problems easily and cheaply from the outside. Check the gutters and downspouts to make sure they are clear and divert the water at least 6' from the building. Make sure the ground is properly sloped around the outside. If there are ...


1

Keep it simple, buy a wet/dry shop vac and suck up the water with it occasionally. Cost you about $60.


1

I am assuming you mean water is getting into your basement and the sidewalk connects to your foundation. My First step would be to try and seal where the sidewalk touches to foundation. There is probably a crack there where the water is getting in. The best sealant would come in a caulk tube make sure it is flexible and made for concrete. Do not get the ...


1

Your best answer would be to try to eliminate the water before it gets in. Your best options will depend on the reliability of your electric source. A battery pump will only last so long. A watered powered pump will require a steady flow of municiple water. If you have a well it obviously won't work without power. The other consideration is how easily can ...



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