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Most 3-way lighted switches work by adding a light between their line and load terminals: This actually causes a small current to flow through the load (light) -- with incandescent or fluorescent bulbs, it's not enough to actually cause the light to go on. But with your LED blub, it's enough to at least start the bulb. Your potential solutions: Replace ...


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I describe my alternate approach at the bottom of this answer In terms of the picture in the original post ... For the drip cap, I'd cut it long, then fold it upwards and forward, snipping along its bends to make this possible, then caulk the outside and backside of the corner, and 12" along the top of ledger. The drip cap can serve one or two purposes. ...


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The term to research is kick out flashing. It's used when a roof line butts up against a vertical surface near the edge. It sends the water away from the vertical edge into the gutter. Example:


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Its just trim molding, to hide the cut edge of the soffit where it abuts the wall. It should be re-attached for both appearance and critter protection. You can add some foam insulation, which will help seal the edge. A bead of exterior caulk, then the molding, then another bead if there are any gaps in the molding-to-wall or molding-to-soffit, Use 1" to ...


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Aluminum flashing can not be in contact with pressure treated wood(it will eat away over time) I use ice and water shield or a window wrap in between flashing and PT ledger board this will seal around screw and not leak. To be honest though the amount of water that will make its way under the clip and through the hole and back towards the house is soo ...


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That's at the PEAK of a shed roof, true? If that's the case, what you have amounts to a ridge cap, but nobody I know of manufactures premade ridge caps for shed roofs (too many different possibilities, not enough market), so the builder used "drip edge" or flat flashing (bent around the peak) to function as a ridge cap. There really aren't very many good ...


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Yes there should be flashing but that isn't the main issue. This is the architect's problem. The top of your molding is flat. Where do you think water will go on a flat surface? It will sit on it. It will then seep into the wood and to the wood underneath it, slowly water logging and rotting all of it. If someone showed me your new molding I would ...


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Depends on where the indoor unit is that he had to connect to, in comparison of where the other were in your neighbors house. The important thing is, the tech did slope the pipe down and out of the wall at a heck of a good angle. The only problem I really see is the type of sealant he used as a finish, unless the plan was to come back, carve off the excess ...


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Vented soffit below the window will allow air in, and will reduce the effectiveness of insulation. Other than that, it wouldn't cause a problem, but you're already concerned about the cold near the window. You should focus on how the water gets in, and prevent that from happening in the first place. It should be fairly easy for your contractor to tell ...


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The IRC covers roof assemblies briefly in Section R903 but it's not very specific. It does say (and this is a common theme throughout the IRC and virtually all building codes): Roof assemblies shall be designed and installed in accordance with this code and the approved manufacturer’s installation instructions such that the roof assembly shall serve to ...


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Yeah, that roof's pretty beat. I'd actually go heavily at that seam with Mortar Caulk (its gritty & gray), the whole length of the seam if you don't know where the leak is. But, spraying a hose at the seam & very slowly moving the spray up the seam should give you a good idea of the problem area. Still caulk the whole seam, but then do under the ...


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Low sloped roofs are problematic only when they get wet! (the water doesn't shed fast enough). What the roof contractor probably meant regarding flashing the valley was (I'm guessing) is if you re-roof it would install under the new shingles. Here is an easier and more successful suggestion which I have used with great results. If you'd rather defer a new ...


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Duct Seal is a common product used in the industry to seal around wall penetrations. It stays soft and flexible, so it handles expansion/contraction well. It's fairly easy to remove, and reapply or rework.


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Installing or replacing this type of skylight is very straight forward. The flashing should work as it is. The only concern would be where the old mounting holes are and will the new skylight curb cover the old ones. If not a counter flashing can be added without redoing the flashing.


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I'd recommend Not using any petroleum-based sealant on any surface subject to heat (it will soften and melt). For a positive and weatherproof seal use any 100% silicone caulking (Dap, Owen-Corning, etc.). For an even better and longer lasting seal against water go with any exterior Urethane caulking. Well worth the slight cost increase, but is U.V resistant ...


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Galvalume is a trade name and is not the same material as galvanized steel. Englert, a major roofing manufacturer has a good technical description that specifically cautions against placing Galvalume in contact with mortar. Believe it or not, the entire construction is not comprised of imbeciles, and building codes actually provide sound guidance in regard ...


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In that third photo, it doesn't look like there's any flashing at all! Whenever there's an opening in an exterior wall, there should be flashing at the top that runs from inside the siding to cover the top surfaces of the trim around the opening.


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Doing it right requires avoiding back-laps. That means removing some of the intersecting fascia, all of the rake trim from the triangular area and some shingles because avoiding back-laps means starting from the bottom and working all the way to the top. For the water management plane, I'd consider self-adhered flashings placing a first layer across all ...


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Your flashing will need to be fastened in place with something. I made 3 sketches the illustrate hopefully on of the ways to reset your flashing back in place. The first of three labeled, "Not good" ids the least desirable way to set flashing to a wall but it is done everywhere. It is simply a piece of metal liad to the wall and held in place with masonry ...


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Oh finally a picture. Thank You! Yeah, you could flash over it with galvanized, aluminum, copper or stainless. But, the problem is cutting it in. You'd want to match the cut-in on the chimney all the way up the roof slope's wall. That's to do it right. But, plenty of guys cover the old with new to just caulk & screw the new stuff to the wall. It's ...


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You are always going to get some water behind the vinyl siding that is what the housewrap is for. You can caulk the sides if you want too but its not necessary. Water that makes it to the inside of the j channel will also get behind the siding.


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I ended up not putting any screws through the flashing. I used the hidden fasteners on one side of the board and nothing else for that first board. No screws, or hidden fasteners that went through the flashing that hung over the ledger. It has been a year and I have had no problems with that board. I could most likely pull up that board if I tried (but ...


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It's actually easier to cut and you're less likely to cut your fingers on it. I've never used rolls but the pre-cut sections and they were easy to put in. Just follow the directions.


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Perfect world ... the flashing would be gav metal and create a template (opening) for the vents. Top and side exterior would overlap this flashing top down to DRAIN water (installed as bottom, side, top). I'll mention tar paper here, or peel-n-stick, to underlay and cover any missteps...USE IT. If...when...you replace the wood, and peel-n-stick the area ...



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