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If you're willing to pop more tiles, you could run 2 pieces of lumber (2x4/2x6 -- the biggest you can fit) on the flat, parallel to the joists. They'd be wider than the hole by a foot on either side, and you could get good screws through the subfloor (I'm assuming it's sound) to hold them up. Alternately, can you re-route the shower drain pipe to give you ...


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They have Simpson strong tie plates just for this. Cut your blocking to length, hole saw the location of pipe, install Simpson plates using shear strength screws such as teco nails, and then install your subfloor.


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You need to install the sub floor and any blocking before the toilet flange. Typically you would scab 2x4's much like your picture for ease. The only difference is the bottom horizontal members (bottom between joist) are not needed. Install the blocking first. Then sub floor. Then underlayment, if any, then toilet flange last. Really, we would cut half ...


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Usually if the flange is not high enough, a larger wax ring is used or stack two wax rings together. Yours sounds like it is lower than any I have ever encountered. A good plumber with an internal pipe cutter could cut it with out damaging the floor, add a coupler, and with some proper material to hold the flange at the right height, reset a new flange. Seal ...


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I've seen some discussion here of fancy plumber tools (a bit too expensive for the amount of use anyone but a plumber would put them to, unless you can find them in a rental store) that apply heat and grip/pull things apart. Other than that (which I've never seen or used, only seen mentioned), I'm prone to consider PVC joints as forever, so the stock ...



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