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The flange needs to be sitting flush with (or not more than 1/8" above) the finished floor or else the toilet will rock. The flange should be fastened to the floor. Dry fit the toilet to make sure it doesn't rock. If it does rock, use shims to prevent rocking - just tightening the bolts probably will not stop the rocking but will risk cracking the toilet ...


1

We would usually screw it down during the rough in. Having said that I personally see nothing wrong with cementing it to the exit pipe below. Although not my first choice I have seen installs last many many years without screwing in the flange. For example for basement bathrooms I would just attach the flange via cement. Also if you have the PVC cemented ...


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That is totally normal. 1/8" would actually be a superb cut. The toilet hides the gap.


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I may be seeing this wrong, and correct me if I am, but I believe the last elbow to the flange is a street elbow, and the flange fit OVER the small end of the street elbow. The fix may be a lot simpler and cheaper than you think. There are toilet flanges that glue into the interior diameter of the waste pipe. Since the last elbow is a street elbow, the ...


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If you mean that the closest flange is sitting on top of the subfloor instead of on top of the tile, then yes it works just get one of the thicker toilet wax rings. If big box store doesn't have one check a plumbing supply store, or you could try doubling up the rings.


3

Your pictures are showing that it will be necessary to remove the existing drain lines up to the place where there is free pipe to cut into thus allow gluing in a new coupling. It will unlikely for there to be a decent way to fix this by any other means. Any type of cobbled together "fix" is always going to be a potential weak spot in the system ripe for ...



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