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you can just inject hydraulic cement into the void and let cure. then anchor your flange with a tapcon type screw. or just inject the hydraulic cement and then insert a screw into the wet cement. when it cures, it will lock the screw in place.


If the plywood is solid and not delaminated “can’t poke into the surface” you may be ok. It would be better to check the underside also. There is a sealer that even hardens damaged wood so it will pass home inspections and will protect undamaged wood.


We assume people will not realize their wax ring seal has been compromised until it too late. We try to use plywood for an underlayment or better (concrete board for tile, etc.) We definitely stay away from particle board and the likes. Then, we coat any wood in a thick layer of RedGuard just around the toilet. The trick is to get it coated on ANY ...


If you're putting in new wood, a patch of pressure treated would be the way to go. If you search for "wood preservative" you'll find a lot of products. Thompson's Waterseal, Waterlox, Rustoleum Woodlife, Cuprinol, many others. Something's available at just about any hardware store. Some are only labelled for outside use, you might be OK with a small ...


For Future Viewers: Right idea, but WAY too complicated for minimal support & no screwing for the flange. With NO FLANGE in place, build a frame first, not piece by piece in the floor. With a Flange in place you'd build it without the right side's {bottom} joist attachment so you can dry-fit everything & finish inner attachments to then LASTLY screw ...


You have used wrong adapter-connector to connect cast iron pipe to ABS/PVC. Per Code when connecting the ABS or PVC to cast iron you should use No-Hub Adapter fitting. Rubber connector or Flexible Coupling are allowed only under ground. As defined in the Uniform Plumbing Code section 705.4.2. a mechanical joint shielded coupling for hubless cast-iron pipe ...

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