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If you're having the same problem I had, and it's a case of rubbing but the door could be forced closed (so it's just slightly off), I just made a note of where it was rubbing with a bit of crayon (wipes off easily), then took a small hand plane to shave down that area slightly. Unfortunately, I also made the mistake of passing off the plane to my house ...

I haven't seen one for a small diameter pipe, but what you're looking for is some type of drain flange: The top is wider to hold it in the opening, the rubber washer is below to seal the connection, and then you use a metal washer and a nut to tighten it to the surface. With a small diameter pipe, you can improvise this with a threaded pipe and a second ...

Very Important Make sure the joint is really clean when you solder - so use emery cloth or sandpaper to remove any contaminants in your solder joint and flux the joint prior to heating. I like to wipe the joint with acetone before applying flux but I'm anal retentive like that. Also you might want to consider using MAPP gas vs propane - those brass ...

You could attach a flange to the outside of the tray under the hole. (The flange shown would be turned upside down for this use, with the flat side pointing up) The flange can be attached using bolts with the heads on the inside of the tray and nuts under the flange. Seal the flange with silicon sealant. This does require a threaded pipe, but these are ...

I think you want an automatic compressor drain. It essentially spurts out a little air (and some moisture/condensate with it) each time the compressor motor cycles on. When working properly, they eliminate the need to manually drain down the tank. http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor/ has a good explanation of how to install the kit.

I can't believe 3-6 inches is correct. Maybe 3/16 of an inch? (even that is pushing it). The easiest way to fix this is to take the door down and trim a bit off the top of the door. I'll usually just run the door through my table saw to trim it down, but a power planer would probably work better if you have one. Otherwise a hand planer will work too, but ...

Typically the solution at the bottom of the stairs is to use a quarter-round (Usually 3/4" thick) to cover the flooring and the bottom of the carpet. You'll need some long nails to get through the carpet, so it's best to pre-drill the nail holes so you don't split the trim. This is the best image I could find. It lacks carpet, but will demonstrate the ...

I really like that system in your picture. If that is your option I would use it. You have your expansion gap built in, you have multiple prongs hitting the floor to secure it, and you have nice curves on both sides. If this was available for flooring I have done in the past I could have used it more than a few times. Install should look just like ...

I am not entirely sure what you would like to do but you can attach almost anything with steal putty or epoxy resin. Steal putty Epoxy Glue Both of which require to mix two parts into a single part (usually in equal parts) and they are non-toxic (but check the package before use) You can either mould over or around the pipe glueing it to the surface ...

You could use washers or some other variable width spacers to hold the knife board slightly away from the wall. My fear with using felt or other soft material, is that it will compress over time causing the board to become loose. So I would use something more rigid, like metal washers. When you hang the board put the mounting screws/bolts through the ...

Staple or tack the carpet to the bottom side of the tread above the broken tread, just past where you staple it, cut it with a sharp carpet knife and peal it back, fix the broken tread and then pull the carpet back in place and staple it back into place. Since all of the stapling and cutting will be on the underside of tread it shouldn't be very noticeable. ...