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A heap isn't very descriptive as per quantity, so I am going to assume that this is akin to a buttload. A chainsaw really is your best option as they are designed for quick, rough cuts. Also, the blades last for a very long time. A large reciprocating saw will also do the job just fine but will take longer and go through some blades. Also, the vibration ...


Firewood needs to dry out. It won't dry out in a sealed shed nearly as fast and completely as it would in an open-air setup. Worry about moisture in the air 'getting back in' to the wood isn't really much of a concern. It's not atmospheric moisture but the moisture that's in the wood initially that's the concern. If you completely season your wood ...


Just used a 28v cordless Milwaukee reciprocating saw to cut up a half cord of 14 month seasoned live oak firewood. Had to use several 9" and 12" Diablo pruning blades, but the sawzall was outstanding. I cut through logs up to 10" in diameter. It's not the quickest way to cut logs, but safer than a chainsaw in my opinion. Still have all my fingers!


Reciprocating saws typically have very short blade movement - something like 30 millimeters, so once you cut anything thicker than perhaps three times that range the blade will not fully remove the chips out of the cut and that will slow the cutting process down. A circular saw or a chainsaw doesn't have this problem - it's teeth move continuously into the ...


Won't be airtight anyway, and if you are buying dry wood (that is) it won't matter if it somehow manages to approximate airtight. Ventilation is for actively drying.


Depends on the local climate, how you dry it, whether you split it, and what you are burning it in. Pulling a piece from the pile, splitting it, and using a moisture meter on the freshly-split face is a typical approach of careful woodburners checking on moisture content. Folks that know what they are doing and who use gasifying woodburners tend to be picky ...


Depends on when you cut it, and how you treat it afterwards, and what your climate is like -- tends to have much higher moisture in the summer, but leaving the leaves on will reduce that. As an example: We cut northeastern hardwoods in the winter. We buck them reasonably quickly, and leave them in a well-ventilated pile with a cover to keep the rain off ...


It probably depends on how much effort you're going to be putting into it. If you're just planning on slapping something together quickly, then sure, go for untreated, and if something goes wrong, you can rebuild it in a couple of years. I'd personally use pressure treated, as I'd have to make a larger structure due to local ordinances. (I can't store ...


Yeah a reciprocating saw would take forever to cut through normal sized firewood. You really need a chainsaw, or if the pieces are small enough in diameter, you could use a chop-saw, if you have one.

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