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Your idea is fine but the metal should be on the inside of the fireplace. You may want to call manufacturer of insert first and ask if they suggest a mounting kit. If not you can either build your own or have a local shop make one. A perfect bracket would align with the mounting edges on the inside of your insert all the way around and you would screw ...


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Solved my own problem. To unstick the ash door from the inside: Sweep the loose ash off of the door and away from all the edges and hinges Wire brush around the edges of the door Sprayed a rust spray (PB Blaster brand) around the edges Let soak for 15 minutes Operate door using the poker several times Tidy up inside Clean out the ash dump BEFORE the next ...


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To make the fireplace waste less cooled or warmed air there are several approaches to take. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages: Cap the chimney. This is easy, inexpensive, and solves most airflow inefficiencies as well as most pest problems. It can be done easily reversibly or more permanently. It doesn't do anything to improve the ...


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I had the same problem, intermittent flames, sometimes no response no matter how long I leave the switch to on position. Thanks to the knowledge here I measured the voltage on the wire and it was 320 millivolts. So I cleaned the contacts and the wire and reassembled the switch. Voila, works perfectly now. Thanks everybody. Just a little sandpaper on the ...


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Does anyone know what voltage a "healthy" thermopile produces? A little Googling does not give me a clear answer; I've seen everything from 30mV to 750mV, but I am leaning towards 750mV being the correct answer. I have the problem described in this thread and my thermopile is producing 300mV DC from the pilot light, measured at the switch. I've taken an AA ...


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Well, it must have been the temperature. After I left the fireplace on without the logs for a half hour and let the whole stove get nice and hot, I turned the burner off, put the logs back, and turned it back on. It's been going for an hour now without any shutoffs.


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I have this fireplace cover, but I find that it only helps so much. I am thinking of building a supplemental heat barrier, with the following layers (from closest to furthest from fire): radiant foil barrier fiberglass insulation (no vapor retardants) plywood I would cut the fiberglass to the size of the plywood, then take a slightly larger piece of foil ...


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If you can find the source of the smoke smell, you could try a chemical smoke remover like ZEP Smoke Odor Eliminator: http://amzn.to/1DuEMww If that doesn't work or you can't find the surface that is holding the smell (and hence cannot use a cleaner like that), then you'd likely need to treat the entire room with an ozone machine. These are used by ...


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I googled 'Napoleon B36DFN LP conversion' and the very first hit is for page 17 of the user manual for that fireplace. See here: http://bit.ly/1HHpEP5 It states in relevant part: "To convert from Propane to Natural Gas order conversion kit # W175-023" Googling for 'W175-023 conversion kit' yields a link to the kit on Amazon... $42. ...


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The plumbing is not that hard, but you'll need a new fireplace and a new stove. See if it's legal to use flexible corrugated line where you live. It's covered in a yellow plastic jacket. Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST). It'll be MUCH easier to install, plus under a house where there is moisture it'll hold up better.



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