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10

I would build a 2x4 (or 2x6, it's hard to tell the depth from this picture) frame to fit into the cubby hole, something like this: Spacing and attaching Space the studs 16" on center. You'll need to attach this securely to the rest of the walls. Assuming they're also wood, a few 3" #10 screws into either side would probably do the trick. Be sure to ...


9

This is going to sound bogus but I just got this tip the other day from a friend and it worked great on my woodstove. Take a wet paper towel and dip it into some cool ashes from inside the fireplace, just enough to get a thin coating of ashes on the wet towel. Then scrub the glass with the wet towel. Within a few seconds you'll see even the toughest ...


8

My first guess would be the thermocouple is bad, or going bad. The thermocouple is a small device that generates electricity from heat, they are used in gas furnaces and such to shut off the gas in case the pilot goes out (so gas doesn't continue to flow and fill the room). I admit I'm no expert when it comes to gas fire places, but I had an old gas heater ...


8

It sure sounds to me like a problem with the gas pressure or regulator/meter. Since gas can be dangerous if leaking into your house if a pilot blows out etc, I'd be on the phone to the gas supplier. They should be able to check the input pressure and assure that the regulator is working properly. Trying to trouble shoot and repair this type of problem is not ...


8

I agree with @DA01 that it'll basically be impossible to fish horizontally through studs and insulation, without having to cut open all of the sheetrock. Then you have to deal with sealing it all back up air-tight, and patching the drywall and repainting (at least the entire wall, and maybe the entire room, depending the paint match). So a couple ...


7

Storing your firewood on an elevated rack should alleviate most insect problems. The wood should not be in direct contact with the ground or with a structure. Leave enough of a gap to promote air flow around the stack. Rotate your firewood from season to season (do not stack new firewood on top of old). If you live in a termite prone area (the southeast ...


6

This online store has them for $15.90 each, and claims to be compatible with Dremel Multi-Max. EDIT: Taking shirlock's advice in mind, the right tool for the job can make all the difference. I did a bit of searching, and DeWalt has an angle grinder for pretty cheap - only 4x the cost of the multimax blade! Ryobi has one for about half that price too. ...


6

Our house was built in the 1970s and we had a similar dilemma. We covered the brick added a new mantle added black granite tiles as well as covering the opening with a cover we bought at a home improvement store. We also widened the area a little as well to offset the mantel. With the doors shut it looks very modern and clean and hides the internals. ...


6

If it's sheetrock, I'd bite the bullet and cut out a section. Then you can easily remove insulation, drill studs, insert smurf tube and fish everything through easily. With the smurf tube, it should be easy to re-fish future cables as needed. (though with any luck we'll finally have wireless HDMI sooner or later...) Yes it means you need to patch, tape, mud ...


6

Quikrete FASTSET Repair Mortar is a great product. The biggest difference between it and a typical type S mortar is that it is "fastset" (duh) meaning it will be hard in about 20 min. Not cured, but hardened. And that it is intended for commercial use as it will eventually reach 6000 psi after it's full 28 day cure. This product does not need any bonding ...


6

I did this exact thing a few years ago in a friend's house. The steps I took: Remove lime efflorescence from the brick by spraying on some diluted white vinegar, then scrubbing with a stiff-bristled nylon brush. Leave to dry. Prime and seal (there were some smoke stains on the brick) the fireplace with Kilz latex spray primer. Leave to dry. Paint with ...


6

Damper closed - most likely. Chimney blocked - while "damper closed" is a self-correctable version of this, if the fireplace has not been inspected there may be anything from bird nests to parts of a chimney in serious disrepair blocking the flue. SO - before you become a statistic (of the chimney fire sort) call a chimney sweep and have the flue inspected ...


5

The advice your home inspector gave you is ridiculous and he should have his license revoked. Either a flue is safe to use with wood, or it is not. Get a good chimney cleaning company that also inspects flues to clean it well first and run a camera down the length looking for any problems that might need attention and assure you it is safe for a wood fire. ...


5

There is no hard and fast rule. A few fires a season may be OK, a daily fire that is not very hot may not be. Creosote builds up from vapors condensing on the interior surface of the chimney, so the amount of buildup will depend on how hot the fire is, chimney construction, and possibly even what time of year the wood was cut (there is more sap in the ...


5

You can tell very quickly if the outlet is at all special by shutting off power to the outlet, removing it, and inspecting it. It seems rather unlikely to me that the outlet would be special since it's not near water, and it's supplying power for a blower. Other than making sure you've got proper amperage rating, I wouldn't think there would be any ...


5

I've checked the National Electrical Code and there are no specific references to receptacles installed near any type of fireplace. Your biggest concern is likely the heat produced by the fire, but that's a concern for the ampacity of the wires, and has nothing to do with the receptacle. Also, like all receptacles newly installed today, the receptacle would ...


5

There is no way to convert a gas fireplace to burn wood, unless you are very lucky and the gas fireplace is an insert in a properly functioning solid fuel fireplace (in which case you basically just remove the insert, and have the fireplace inspected). In situations like this, you have a couple options. Install a Solid Fuel Stove This option will ...


5

It makes me die a little inside when people paint over raw red brick.... That said, you tape and paper the walls where they meet the brick. Then you plastic from the paper as far out as you think you might overspray. You may even want to form a "curtain" out of the plastic to keep the brick in a make-shift paint booth. It is just as you would mask any ...


5

If the pressure you're measuring is the static pressure, that is the pressure in the line with no gas flowing, that pressure is the same everywhere in the line. You cannot increase that pressure by removing unneeded gas pipe. Instead, you can try having the gas company adjust or replace your regulator. If you're measuring the pressure while gas is flowing, ...


5

While this will not directly answer your question, I'd like to offer an alternative solution. Modify Existing Molding If it were me. I'd get some transition molding, with a profile like this. I'd then set up my table saw to rip the piece, to remove the angle profile on the back edge. Which would give me a profile like this. Once I had my molding ...


4

In the US, there should be a 36" clearance between any point on the stove and any point on a combustible wall. Shielding should be mounted on non-combustible spacers which allow air circulation behind the shield. UL-listed stoves with attached heat shields may be installed with less clearance according to manufacturer's specifications (you should consult ...


4

look at page 22 of the manual: http://www.heatilator.com/downloads/installManuals/4031-551.pdf using a multimeter, check the voltage being sent to the valve while the fireplace is on, which should be the green and orange wires. the re-check it after you turn it off and the pilot is still on. if the on and off voltages are different, then your gas valve is ...


4

Drywall is out of the question due to weight, plywood might not give you the proper adhesion. I would start with cement board, then attach the metal lath to that. After the metal lath is secure, you'll have to apply a scratch coat of a sand and cement mix before applying the stone. Here is a good guide for applying stone veneer.


4

That would be the flue control. The flue is the metal duct work, ceramic piping or brick chimney stack that runs from a firebox to the top of a chimney to the outdoors. The flue directs exhaust gases and debris from a fireplace upward to vent outdoors into the atmosphere. The flue is effective because it makes use of the stack effect that happens when ...


4

I am not sure what kind of fireplace you have. But there is definately a legal clearance limit around the opening for combustable materials. Check with your local building codes or manufacturer if you have one of those "insert" types of fireplaces. A wood mantle will act a heat shield. Even though wood burns it still acts as an insulator so it should be ...


4

This does NOT sound at all like a normal situation. Either your gas fireplace has a serious flaw or the unit is vented incorrectly. I would stop lighting it and immediately get a professional in to look at it. At the same time you should use every avenue at your disposal to get the builder, contractor, and gas fireplace installer on the hook to look at this ...


4

I have installed a couple of gas fireplaces. Both came with instructions to operate the fireplace on high for at least five hours in order to off-gas the unit. This should have been done before you moved in. Now you are the canary in the coal mine! As far as the possibility that the unit was installed incorrectly, I am going to reiterate Michael Karas' ...


4

There should be a metal-wire looking thing that is the thermocouple. It must be in the path of the pilot and getting hot when its lit. The thermocouple must come up to temperature before you release the hold down for the pilot and turn it to "ON". Usually, the thermocouple either works or doesn't. It can be bent slightly to put it more in line with the ...


4

I love these garden fireplaces, but think you would be wise to keep it outdoors as it was designed for. In my humble opinion, the fact that it is an open flaming device with flames viewable 360 degrees, it would be very dangerous to have it indoors. Sparks and embers could easily escape the enclosure with a draft from a door or window. As far a a flue is ...



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