Hot answers tagged fire-extinguisher
I used to be a fire extinguisher repair tech. This unit should not be refilled even though it is possible with the right equipment. The plastic/nylon heads will develop cracks and leaks over time. Buy a new unit with a metal head. Those can be refilled and will last you a long time. Amerex, Badger, General, Ansul are all decent brands.
The plastic ties are a tamper evident device, which lets you know if the fire extinguisher has been used. It also helps to prevent the pin from accidentally becoming dislodged, and potentially lost. They have a very low breaking strength, and can easily be broken by twisting (or pulling, but more difficult) the pin from the extinguisher.
I personally wouldn't recommend that you put this inside your house. If you really have something that gets that hot, I'd be looking into building a separate structure away from the main building. This was actually pretty typical in early America -- the kitchens of large homes were in an outbuilding, so should there be a fire, it only burned down the ...
Actually, there are different types of sprinkler systems. In lots of residential homes, a personal protection type system are being installed. These systems use existing water pressure and lower flow heads. The heads are not interconnected and only release water if the temp is high enough at the individual heads. The purpose is not to extinguish the fire, ...
Anecdotal I guess, but I've had a fire extinguisher out in my barn for years now and it's never been a problem. Being in Michigan, it regularly gets below 0F. Granted, I've never actually tried to use it, but I think the freezing point of the chemicals in there is way below zero. ETA: Looking at this page it seems like the operating temp of a typical ...
1/2" drywall carries a 30 minute fire rating. This can be increased to 1 hour by upgrading to a fire-rated (Type X) 5/8" drywall. For a 2 hour wall, you can stack sheets one over another (stagger the seams). In your situation, I would probably do metal studs (which provide higher fire rating than wood). Add a double layer of Type X drywall, along with a ...
I might add that the primarily "fire rating" of wall and floor/ceiling assemblies is to allow occupants to safely exit the building, not to keep the building from burning down. The Type X gyp board affords some protection because the inherent moisture in the product can slow down the fire through your wall or ceiling. With these assemblies, you are basically ...
I would say that your best bet is to go to a fire protection contractor and get their expertise, but I can give you a quick overview. Your system is comprised of a sensor, your pipes, and the type of sprinkler head you choose. Sensor: at what stage of the fire do you want to douse it? In order from early to later detection: Incipient phase uses an ionizing ...
This article mentions that refillable fire extinguishers have a metal valve, rather than a plastic one. You may also want to check with your local fire department - some of them will refill it for free. The cost trade off should be about $15 for a refill, or $60-115 for a new one. (I can't tell if that's a 10 or 20 lb extinguisher in the picture.)
I have been researching this subject and it seems like its pretty cheap to add sprinklers during the construction stage. If I was building a house I wouldn't hesitate for even a second to install one. I don't understand why someone wouldn't do if given a choice. Moreover I think it should be mandatory for all new construction. I'm currently saving up money ...
Most BC extinguishers are made from bicarbonate salts, which can smother a flame, but not the embers. From: http://www.gafsed.com/Fire_and_Fire_Extinguishment.pdf "In addition to effectiveness on class B and C fires, it will have some effect on the flaming stages of a class A fire but no effect on the ember or deep seated stages of a class A fire."
It seems that the new type "AF" is what is recommended. It is a watermist type extinguisher. While using water seems counterintuitive, it contains an additive that renders the water non conductive. When combined with the misting properties it smothers the fire. The other advantages are that it leaves no toxic residue and can be used in small areas without ...
More of a FYI but there are alternatives as well, some companies are switching their residential lines to use plastic pull pins that has a smaller resistance to pull out that it sounds like some people would prefer. Personally it was just the one I happened to pick up a few years ago so I have one at my house. Here's some example photos of the Kidde FA110 ...
Another possibility, if this extinguisher's tag has a number or date (or if the tag is a form of color-coding), is that this may be used to indicate when the extinguisher was last inspected as part of a regular inspection and maintenance plan. This is typically performed annually, beginning with the date of installation.
Probably too heavy for wood screws into chipboard cabinets. If the screws don't work then a couple of bolts with penny washers. The extinguisher looks a bit battered, you should check the trigger mechanism looks ok. BUT don't try and squirt it a little bit - the cooling gas can make ice form in the valve and stop it turning off
I say that you should wrap the walls of your room in fire brick, like a fireplace, and then let the demon roar free. :) This answer is partly for amusement, but also serious: do you want to slow down a fire, or actually make the room fire proof? How likely is it that things will get out of control?
From the picture, this appears to be a type ABC dry chem fire extinguisher. This is the most common type for people to have in their homes as it can be used on ordinary combustibles, flammable liquids, and electrical fires. Unfortunately, it is not possible for you to refill this on your own. You could take it to a local fire equipment / service shop and ...
Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible