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15

You can add a center section at the corner that runs at a 45┬░ angle to either wall. That cuts down on any gap you might have, but makes the installation and cutting a bit more difficult. My house has a few faux pillars that use this technique: (I know, I know, I haven't gotten around to touch ups after we painted the walls...) And here's a lookup table ...


14

Read the instructions on the can. See what the manufacturer recommends. Sandpaper is fairly useless on polyurethane because the heat generated by the friction causes the polyurethane to melt and block up the grit. And the finer the grit, the faster it gets blocked up. I have been using polyurethane for more than 30 years. Here is my routine to achieve a ...


14

I use 220 grit. You sand polyurethane to (a) remove any dust bumps in the lower coat, and (b) cut the surface of the lower coat so that the upper coat has more surface area to bond to. You don't need the lower coat to be super-smooth because the upper coat will cover the roughness from sanding anyway. For application, I use a china bristle brush. I've ...


14

According to Chapter 3 of the Gypsum Construction Handbook, published by USG, manufacturer of SHEETROCK® Brand Gypsum Panels... Perpendicular vs. Parallel Application Gypsum board may be applied perpendicular (long edges of board at right angles to the framing members) or parallel (long edges parallel to framing). Fire-rated partitions may ...


13

You could do this as an outside corner, with just a little piece of rail. I did this with some baseboard right beside a closet (that I didn't want to put trim around), and it turned out well. (Taking this picture also reminds me, I never did quite finish cleaning this all up). The hardest part of doing this is cutting the edge piece so you get a ...


13

You're spreading the mud out over a progressively larger area so that instead of a small but sharp bump (or dip) in the middle of the joint, you have a much more gradual bump (or dip). That way, any irregularities in the surface are much less noticeable and can be easily masked by texturing.


13

First, handle drainage. If you want to install a sump pump, perimeter drain, or water proof the walls, now is the time to do that. You should also install any plumbing drain lines at this point. Next, framing. Concrete transmits moisture, so use pressure treated, and a styrofoam underlay that would normally go under the sill plate, to keep the walls dry. ...


12

I don't have any experience with boxes, but have quite a bit with the 5-gallon buckets of compound. Without knowing much about how those boxes seal, I'd recommend going with a bucket- the buckets/lids seal air tight which is important for keeping the mud from drying out. The other thing I'd recommend- every time you close the box or bucket, put a piece of ...


11

I would not risk hanging a glass shelf with those strips. They are meant for hanging things directly from (like a towel, hair dryer, etc.), not a shelf that sticks out. Instead of just pulling down on the strip, it will pull down and away, almost a guaranteed recipe for broken glass. Unfortunately there is no way to anchor something to the wall without ...


9

Note that that progression only applies for "butt" joints where the unshaped short edges of drywall panels meet, not to long-edge joints where the edge is thinner to create a recess in the finished wall. On those edge joints, you just want to fill up the recess not bulge and feather it, so your knife only needs to be long enough to span the recess, or about ...


9

Pine is a difficult wood to stain under the best of situations. Pine has areas of different density, color, and resin (pitch) content. Using a product like Minwax prestain helps a bit. Follow the timing instructions carefully when using a pre-treatment. Little tips: i like to apply a liberal coat of oil based stain with a sponge brush. Let it set a few ...


9

As the others have said, paint will not help your situation. You will need to apply another coat of mud. The final coat can be applied using a 12 inch flat knife, but I personally like a 14 or 16 inch bow trowel. The idea is to have a thicker coat of mud over the tape and bevel or feather the edges out wide so you will not notice the small difference in ...


9

In your situation, I'd use reducer molding instead of T molding:


9

We just redid our basement into 4 rooms on an existing 30 year old house. A playroom, bonus room, laundry room and a bathroom. Most likely you will need to pull a permit to do this type of construction and get it inspected. Bmitch's order is definately correct. How much you want to do is up to you as well as material selection. I did most of the ...


9

Horizontal: Pros will fit top piece to ceiling first and cutoff bottom piece for a 1/4 to 1/2 gap at floor. The tapered joint is easy to fill. You can also get a tapered butt joint by hanging the butt ends between studs and using a floating backer with a depressed center area that forms the "butt taper". They are available commercially or can be ...


8

I know this isn't the answer you want to hear, but I don't think priming and painting will hide the tape. Before you apply any more primer, I'd add another thicker coat of mud. Slather on the mud thick first - it doesn't have to be smooth. Then smooth it out by angling your 12" knife so it's almost parallel with the drywall as you drag it along the ...


8

A: Horizontal Aesthetically, a vertical install can look very nice since you don't have any butt joints between two non-beveled edges. Those non-beveled edges create 4' long humps that can be seen with careful observation (and more so with a bad mudding job). However, for structural strength, drywall is typically installed horizontally. This bridges the ...


7

In addition to the things @Steve Jackson mentioned in his comment, the quick-drying mud (called setting compound) is also much harder to sand than the slower drying-type compound, which makes it not such a great choice for your final coats where you're going to be doing the most sanding. Pros use it because they're able to apply it so well that it requires ...


7

I have done this 3 different ways: 1) Bevel the edge and sand it to make even smoother rounded edges. This actually looks okay and is the easiest, unless there is the hollow back problem like you have. You'd have to fill it like you mentioned with a custom shim-type piece. 2) Cut and prepare the edge as in the post above by gregmac. That looks great and ...


7

For starters, I am going to guess you used a water based urethane instead of an oil based product? I have never seen a good oil based product react as you described to simple spills. I have seen some damage caused by very hot items being placed on a urethane finish, but normally, liquids will bead up and not penetrate the finish. Even though the water based ...


6

The make wood putty in a range of colors to match different types of wood. You can probably find one that's a close match to your baseboards. Take a small amount, fill the nail hole and wipe it smooth with a damp cloth. When it dries, lightly sand it and the surrounding area down, then re-varnish the area.


6

You certainly can put different types of mud on top of each other without any problems. Generally it's done the opposite way though - using the quick drying mud for the first/second coats and the pre-mix for the final coats. As for sandability, pre-mix is going to be the easiest to sand. The quick drying mud can still be sanded without much trouble ...


6

You might have some more flexibility if you went with aluminum. Something like this: Or this:


6

I ended up taking advise from @chris's answer and making my own transition from actual flooring. I cut away part of the flooring to make the transition piece sit flush on the floor and then on top of the tile. I then routed a rounded edge so the piece on top of the tile flowed down more gradually. I was a little worried about the routed part and how it ...


6

We had an almost identical situation in a former garage that we refinished to be an office. Our contractor suggested this and we liked the result: he installed a piece of wood about an inch out from the concrete, putting insulation between them and keeping the wood a consistent and level height - a little higher than the concrete. I can't remember if it was ...


5

I know the question is already solved but I learned a lot over the weekend watching drywall videos on YouTube. There are a number with Laurier Desormeaux posted by drywallgall that were really good.


5

Regardless of the religious factor involved in painting hardwood trim, (lololol) if you must do it, you need to buff sand the wood, 150 or 220 is fine for this step. PRIME the trim with BINs Bullseye, pigmented shellac. After the Bins dries, very lightly sand it again with 220-400 paper or 4/0 steel wool. It will be smooth as glass. The shellac will seal ...


5

Have you thought about maybe just building a bench around the room to encase the concrete ledge? I'm not sure what the intended use of the room is, but a bench might be neat for a play room or entertainment room.


5

By "White spirit", do you mean turpentine or mineral spirits? If that had no effect on it... My best guess would be that it's improperly cured polyurethane, or water-based polyurethane that wasn't mixed properly. Additionally, polyurethane doesn't take to pine well and is pretty resistant to being removed chemically, so there's another pointer in that ...



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