Hot answers tagged finish
9
Remove the door knob and latch mechanism.
Sand the damaged area, focusing on feathering down the edge between the old finish and the now unfinished areas. Start with an 80 grit and work in steps up to 120G or even 150G depending on how much you love this door. Be careful not to get too aggressive, this looks like a veneered hollow-core door and you want to ...
8
It's called a tarnish or patina and is caused by oxidation of the copper in the bronze. The sun's heat will accelerate that reaction somewhat compared to one in a cooler place.
If you don't like it, simply clean the lockset with Brasso when it starts to look discolored. It will take some elbow grease the first time because the tarnish has had time to ...
6
I would say that it depends on the type/brand of paint you are using. We have used eggshell finish paints from Benjamin Moore and Behr and it used to be true that eggshell was the easiest to clean. However, newer paint such Benjamin Moore's Aura is very easy to clean, especially their Bath & Spa paint. It's a kitchen & bath paint, but it has a matte ...
5
I just got an answer by email from the owner of a company in France that specializes in artisanal plaster work. He recognizes it as a very thin lime-plaster that was applied with a bundle of leaves like these:
with a whipping motion. He calls this type of finish an enduit fouetté which translates as whipped lime-plaster. He suggests that we mix a very ...
5
I would keep them the same if it's not too inconvenient.
Different manufacturers (and even different batches from the same manufacturer) may have different drying properties (the Satin may come out differently). They may also have trouble adhering to one another which would lead to cracking between layers and may also yellow differently, producing a ...
3
It's possible it's just the cool temperature and it will dry in a few days. It won't hurt to let it sit several more days and see if the tacky areas harden up on their own.
However my suspicion would be a compatibility problem between the urethane finish and the "green" mineral spirits. Although they probably say then can be substituted for real mineral ...
3
Most stucco/plaster patterns/textures aren't/weren't created by any particular tools but rather by incredibly highly skilled craftsmen. In otherwords, the pattern was created via decades of experience and skills rather than a particular tool.
We have a stucco house and over the years I've talked to a few contractors and they all same the same thing...good ...
3
60 year-old wood should not be "off-gassing." I suspect there's moisture behind the wood and you're dealing with mold and wood-rot. Did the home inspection note anything about it?
I would hire a indoor environmental service to test the air near the wood to determine the problem. If it is moisture, you need to get the leak fixed, lose the wood, fix the ...
3
In most cases, if you have done all the right things like sanding and cleaning between coats, you should be done and have an excellent smooth glossy finish. Any further sanding or polishing with any kind of abrasive will dull the finish. Normally urethane does not need a wax. After some use and a good week or two of total cure time, a regular furniture wax ...
3
Use a hard, inexpensive local wood, without large pores. Hard, since they will get banged around. Pores will allow the wood to trap bacteria, dirt where you don't want it.
Maple is my first choice. Second choice might be birch, sycamore, or alder, if you have a source for them. Poplar is not bad either - cheap, reasonably tough. Cherry would work too. Much ...
3
I'd recommend something like maple. I've seen wooden toy making demonstrations at craft fairs and they almost all used maple.
As for coloring I'd do a test with some food grade dyes or colorants. You can buy gel and paste colorants from a cake decorating store and they're very vibrant and (obviously) safe to eat.
3
Repairing these worn spots should be fairly easy assuming the damage is only to the urethane finish and not into the wood itself. This should be as easy as buffing the affected area with a green dish style scrubby to remove loose finish and slightly level the surrounding surface. If the scrubby is not quite aggressive enough, use some very fine 220 grit ...
2
There are various oils to condition wood (lemon oil, etc), but they're just for keeping wood from drying out, etc. They are not wear protection. Nothing like a conditioning of the wood is going help your situation. There are no surface-patching compounds for wood floors that will tolerate a chair or anything like it from what I've seen. You have 3 ...
2
If the rolling of office chairs is your major concern, consider putting urethane wheels or casters on your chairs. This type of wheel will not scratch or mar the floors further. These can be found at office furniture retailers. There is no way other than using chair mats, carpet etc. that I know of to protect a wood floor if you do not want to apply ...
1
You shouldn't need to strip unless you scratched through to wood.
The problem with polyurethanes is that they are hard films that don't blend with the previous coat. Other finishes will 'melt into" the previous one (lacquer, shellac, tung oil)
Your sanding, @220, was too aggressive. Intercoat sands should be at 320 - 400.
You will have to sand back to a ...
1
Correct, dry shake. Or more specifically dry shake color hardener. As you say, it is essentially cement and colorant. You might just search video sites for application instructions, such as http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dry+shake+color+hardener+application. Incidentally, techniques that achieve similar effects to cured concrete are concrete ...
1
The peeling finish appears to be a metallic plating over a another metal or over plastic.
You might be able to glue the lifted areas down using a cyanoacrylate type glue. You need to be very careful with these because they will glue your skin to a surface in a second or two. Such a repair would be iffy, and the handle may continue to peel in other areas. ...
1
I'm almost confused more by the latest image, as in this one, the middle section is so much larger than the size of the ring around it. And my first guess of it being done with a bag are right out, due to the scale.
So, assuming that the dark sections are the highs, and not the lows, I'm going to guess that even if it's not the right thing, you might be ...
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