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0

If you really can't get time on a tablesaw, a handheld circular saw with a normal 7-1/4" blade would do most of the cutting you need. (And the shoe tilts to get you your angle.) That said -- thanks Tester101 for reminding me -- this isn't the simplest cut to make. You need to be good at both following a line and keeping the circular saw blade straight in the ...


2

A Minimum 10" circular saw or table saw are the best options either would be $500 w/ the table saw being the best option. A band saw could also work.


0

I have thought of two solutions for this issue: 1) remove all the boards on my side and replace them with something that will have the same color on both segments. This will create a problem to my neighbors though 2) leave both segments as they are and either add new boards over the old ones or add lattice fence over the existing boards. This will mask the ...


0

I'd move the post a bit further from the house, until the foundation is no longer in the way of your hole. Fastening the fence to the house is not a good idea.


1

If you can use the strength of your wall, it will be quite strong to butt against the house, I would dig up to the cement foundations, then butt your post against the wall. About 3/4 the way up, just fix the post to the wall. (if the wall is cement you can use a rawl bolt, otherwise a nice threaded bolt will do the trick. You will not need anything too over ...


3

You can hold up 2' of dirt with wood structures. That's essentially what wood planter boxes are. But will it look good? Probably not...at least, not over time. Wood is flexible, gets wet, gets sun damaged, and the posts supporting it will suffer the same fate. If you don't care about looks, then it's probably OK, but if you want it to look OK over time, I'd ...


3

Your town/city/county should have that information on file, as it's likely that a survey was required for the sale of the property. Depending on where you are, you might have gotten a copy of the survey when you bought the property.


5

Depends how obvious it is. If there are clear markers (stone bounds, iron pipes, etc) just walk out and pull a string between them. Your deed should describe the corner markers, though they can be tricky to find if you don't know what you are looking for. A stone bound, incidentally, is usually about a 3x3 or 4x4 inch square(-ish) chunk of stone - it may ...


11

The official answer is find a local land surveyor and hire them to do a property survey. However, you can do a bit of research on your own, and may be able to figure out where the property lines are well enough to get by without hiring a surveyor, which can cost $250-1,000+, depending on the size of your property and how complicated the boundaries are. Note ...


1

Some fences are never stained. Keep in mind that sunlight will "bleach" wood that is not protected from UV light. So, you can leave the fence as-is but it might significantly weather with no protection, depending on whether the pressure washing damages whatever existing finish is on it now. Also, you don't necessarily want it to be hot when applying an ...


0

First of all, you cannot "share" a fence. Property belongs to one party or the other. In a court of law normally they will consider the fence to belong to whoever built it. If part of it is overlapping onto someone else's property, all that means is Party X was dumb enough to situate his personal property on top of Party Y's real property. If it is not ...


2

A few options (ordered by relative ease): buy the premade section and cut to fit use regular 2x4 (1.5x3.5) material and ignore the size difference find a tablesaw and rip stock to the exact size you want Alternately, you could run the panels full width and fill in any gaps at the bottom with triangular pieces.


0

The correct mixing ratio would be 1:1.5:1 — 1 cement : 1.5 sand : 1 gravel stones with 0.4 water. If you use more water it will leave holes (porosity of the mortar), and if you use less water, it will not lead to hydration.



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