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Many fence treatments are intended for use on rough sawn wood as they soak in better. Assuming your fence is made of sawn timber, you shouldn't sand it. Also the pressure treatment doesn't soak in all the way (or at least not at full strength) so you wouldn't want to remove much material. A pressure washer or a brush would be a good idea, especially ...


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Dig a 6in. deep trench 4ft. long opposite direction of your gate when closed! Do this against the post revealing some of the post. Fill with concrete and let set then hang your gate! The concrete will be pushing against a larger area creating less pressure against the area of just the post. Like a brace! If you don't want to see the concrete dig deeper to ...


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It's a vinyl fence. You could get a solid stain to match the color, but it won't be shiny. You could polyurethane it, but the sun degrades it after a couple of years, and you'll have to repeatedly refinish the fence.


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"Is it paint or stain?"- neither, that fence is made of plastic. It is manufactured that color. "Can cedar be prepared to look like it?" - the grain uniformity and absence of knots and defects is unrealistic, natural cedar will have natural imperfections. If you choose your lumber carefully you can select pieces that look nicest to you. A high quality ...


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That's a 2x4. It would look better on both sides of the fence if it were a 2x6 or 1x6, because then it would fully cover the posts. Nail them down from the top, into the 4x4 post.


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Sure. Just make sure the face where the fence attaches, is in line with the 4x4s.


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Use a turnbuckle and steel cable. Not only will it keep the gate level but it will also torque it laterally, depending on which side you put it on. Thus, straightening it in its entirety. Luckily, the "ugly side" is the side you need to put it on. (source) (source)


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The first thing I would do is cross-brace the gate. You need to do something like this: If you Google search for "wood gate diagonal bracing" you'll get lot's of images showing the proper way to do this.


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Two things are key to eliminate sag: Rock-solid posts that are anchored in the ground well Gates that have diagonal bracing built in If your posts are leaning, or if they wobble with the wind, you won't be able to accomplish much. They must remain plumb, and they must be stout enough to not flex appreciably. If your gate panels are sagging in ...


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Gates that wide are going to need extra support, otherwise they'll surely sag (as you've found out). An easy solution might be to put wheels on the gates, so that the wheels support the weight of the gate. Other options include compression/tension bracing built into the gates, and/or making the gates out of a more rigid material. Heavier duty hinges ...


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Adding a stronger latch ought not to be difficult. Are the gates made from wood? It reads as if the (wooden) gates were not braced correctly and have consequently sagged and are no longer rectangular (i.e. are out of square). That could be why adjusting the hinges leaves a gap. This might be harder to fix but it depends how the gates are constructed. You ...


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Do what the bag says. Some products, such as this one recommend you pour the concrete into the hole dry. Optionally this foam-based product is lighter-weight and will be easier to remove when the wood invariably rots away.



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