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27

Couple inches of gravel. Place post. Level, plumb. Fill with concrete. Make sure that the concrete is graded away from the post so water runs off, this is an important step that lots of people overlook. Taking the time now to make sure water moves away from the post, will save time and money later when the posts don't have to be replaced. *Also ...


19

The most common failure with posts in concrete is "collar rot", where the post rots right at the point where it exits the concrete at the ground line. This can be easily avoided if the concrete is slightly above ground grade and domed or tapered away from the post so water doesn't lay against the wood. Drainage is the key, keep standing water away from the ...


18

Don't attach the fence to the house. Aside from putting holes in your siding (not a good thing), your fence and your house will most likely move differentially. The attachment could result in a tear of the siding, which would be a bad thing. Place the fence post close to the house, then run the fencing top and bottom supports up to within an inch or so of ...


15

Last summer we rebuilt our fence using advice from The Fence Bible. The advice was great, and the directions clear. The author covered both concrete and compact dirt/rock footers for wooden fences. I'd highly recommend it to anyone building a fence for the first time. Concrete does risk rotting the wood because of water build up, but that can be mitigated ...


12

The best solution is to add a dig-out guard to your fence or dog run: Head to the home improvement store and pick up some galvanized sheet metal about 2 feet wide (corrugated or straight is fine; the stuff they use for roofing and sheathing outbuildings is perfect) With snips, a hacksaw or a Sawzall, cut the metal to workable lengths, maybe 3-4'. If it's ...


11

This all depends on soil conditions. Loamy soil with good drainage, the concrete is probably OK. Clay soil, the concrete doesn't really do anything short of trapping water against the wood. In both cases, many people suggest not using concrete at all. Instead, dig the hole deeper than the post and then add some gravel to the bottom. Insert the post, then ...


10

Coyote rollers, won't harm children like barb wire, is effective, and can be home owner installed. A Coyote Roller is a patented ribbed roller that mounts to the top of your fence. When a coyote or other predator tries to jump your fence to attack your pets, it requires them to grab hold of the top of a fence. With Coyote Rollers in place, the ...


9

In a house we rented a while back, the previous tenants tried (and failed) to install a dishwasher. Apparently, they were too cheap to find an adapter to hook up the waste flow from the dishwasher, so they cut a hole in the waste line of the sink on the wrong side of the trap and epoxied a piece of PVC there. Then they hooked up the waste hose from the ...


8

I don't even know where to start. My home (a log cabin built by the previous owner) is a veritable shop of horrors. Some of the highlights. 1) One day I was leaning into a door by holding on to the piece of trim above the doorway. It came right off in my hand. It wasn't nailed or glued into place, just balanced on the vertical pieces of trim on the sides of ...


8

Depends on how intact it is. If it is good solid wood, screw a long eye-bolt into it and yank it out / work it out that way If it's all punky, drill some holes down the middle and split it, and remove the pieces.


8

No -- an 18 ga. nailer is ideal for attaching small pieces of trim, like shoe molding/quarter round, inside your house. Outside, the nails will quickly rust and fall off -- they aren't galvanized, they are TINY, and they have little to no head on them. If you want to use a nailer, you need to use a framing nailer like Shirlock suggested. Make sure you use ...


8

An eight foot wide gate is going to be very heavy and most likely will sag and drag on the ground. I would recommend two four foot gates. As far as the foundation for your posts, to support a swing gate, they should be at least 36 to 40 inches in the ground and in at least a 12 inch diameter concrete sauna tube. Frost is not your enemy here, but rot and ...


8

Rule of thumb is that 1/3 of the post should be in the ground. A 6' fence should be sunk into the ground 3', so you'd need 9' posts. As Shirlock states, even that won't likely support an 8' wide gate. Two 4' gates would definitely be a better option. Perhaps the easiest solution, however, is to not even make a gate. Instead, build your fence and then make ...


8

I'd get some Barbed Wire arms for the fence. Since a picture is worth 1000 words, However, the non technical answer is that it's legally your neighbour's problem. Depending on your jurisdiction, it might be legal to shoot the dog. Pitbulls are often great dogs. But they can also be awful dogs if owned by idiots.


7

Common advice is to not attach them to the house. For no other reason, the less holes you punch in your siding, the better. I'd dig the hole a foot way from the house, then extend the fence panel past the house that extra 1 foot.


7

My basement was installed backwards (seriously). It's a split level house and the opening to the garage was supposed to be in the back of the house. This is because the ground slopes down from the road to the house in the front. I'm told by my neighbor (who was here when the house was built) that the contractor accidentally poured the concrete for the ...


7

We bought a house from people who had, lets call it, questionable taste in decorating and color schemes. One of the first things we needed to do was take down the hideous wallpaper in the family room, and paint it a reasonable color. It turns out they'd applied the wallpaper directly to the drywall - no primer, no paint, just paper glued to paper. We ...


7

The previous owners of my house were too cheap to buy wire nuts, every junction is just taped. Every time I simply want to change a switch, I end up rewiring the entire circuit. Not to mention the hidden junction box in my bathroom hanging loose with no cover and taped up connections, I almost had a heart attack when I found that.


7

How old is the house? If it's fairly recent, do you have any idea of what the property was like before being built on? It's possible that the builder put down a lot of fill, and there was a large amount of organic material in that fill, or that he just dumped fill on top of what was there - stumps, trees, etc. Depending on the composition of the fill ...


7

Since you just want to get the fence back up: screw a long board horizontally across the pieces of fence, bridging the broken post. A couple of long 2x4's should do the trick. Skip fixing the post altogether.


7

A fence post has very little vertical force...mainly just the weight of the post and panels it holds. Your driveway slab would work fine as a footing for that. HOWEVER, the primary force on a fence is typically lateral--especially a 6' fence. The reason posts are put into the ground is to counter lateral forces on the fence (typically the wind). I imagine ...


7

I like the buried chain idea. In fact, you don't even need to use cinder blocks. They make 'earth screws' which are large auger-looking thing that you literally screw into the earth. Typically used as playset tie-downs or party-tent tie downs. Alternatively, maybe attach a bar to one of the fence posts. I'm thinking one of the stainless hand-bars you'd ...


7

I would use a punch to make a small dent in the pole so my drill bit wouldn't slip.


6

I lost about fifteen 'concreted-in' fence posts in a windstorm and noted two universal things: all broken posts broke off at the ground line, just above the concrete removing (pulling) the now useless 'anchors' is a beastly task, but once done, it's an easy way to re-do the posts and restore your fences in exactly the same place with no new digging. I ...


6

My first thought is a guy wire from the top corner of the post, with a turnbuckle in the middle to tension it up and pull out that lean in the post. It seems that if you don't do something like this, the only alternative IS to reset the posts, which is a lot of work. Hope this helps. This is what a turnbuckle looks like:


6

I would use something like a MetPost repair spur. You drive it into the bottom of the old post and then fix the new post to it.


6

Your iron fence, like this: ... Is the more traditional choice. A fence like this is going to be very durable, generally only requiring a coat of oil paint every few years and replacing minor touches like the caps on the posts. These are also generally more aesthetically pleasing as they are typically installed as part of the overall decor of the pool. ...


5

When we closed on our house last year, we took the week off to remove wall paper, carpet (we knew there were hard wood floors), etc... My wife starts to clean the kitchen - wiping down cabinets, washing the floor, etc... and she smells something off in the bottom cabinets near the sink. We thought it was just left over from spices or the like. She uses ...


5

If you stain it now, it will change the end color of the wood. You have to wait for it to turn natural, so either wait six weeks or put it up green. The outside environment will dry it faster than sitting in a pile. Reasons Green lumber accepts stain poorly, while older wood absorbs stains relatively well. The porosity of wood can vary greatly, even within ...


5

Cut the timber so it's flush with the top or just proud of the metal support. From the top, drill a few ½inch (12.5mm) holes as deep as you can into the remaining timber. Then with a "old" wood chisel cut away and remove the remaining timber. It's nearly impossible just to pull the timber post from the metal support as there are metal "wings" inside ...



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