New answers tagged faucet
I drew a small black circle around the area of that tab where you can slip a utility knife point underneath of it and pop it out it should come out pretty easily.
According to your tests, the supply line is certainly the culprit. Are these new replacements? If not, do replace them with new. If so, then one is faulty. Either way, sounds like the answer is the line between the valve and the faucet.
So far, everything I find online shows that the screw is certainly under the cap but no direction how specifically to remove the cap. Here is an image that I found: Hope it helps!
It's possible the entire top half comes off, not just the label on top. It may pop off with a gentle prying, or with a small set screw that's exposed when the handle is raised. Shutoff the water and lift the handle to see if there are any small screws. If you don't see any screws, feel the top label, press firmly, and see if there are any obvious ...
What you will have to do is remove the round piece that is shown in your photo. I believe it was an integral piece from the spout. The small thin O-ring that you see on the most forward section should be pressed into the tub spout for a pressure fit. Since that is what keeps it connected to the spout (as opposed to being mechanically secured) it most likely ...
The one I had was powered by either AAA's or stacked "coin" type cells. That, combined with the 2 inches of space lost in the sink made me ditch the whole system. I don't doubt that some are powered with a small turbine (or something like it), but some are just battery powered.
Open and close the shut off valve (from the photo) a few times to loosen any debris. disassemble the faucet handle to expose the valve handle seals and look for obstructions there, too. But always unscrew the aerator cap. 8 out of 10 times this is were blockage occurs due to the screen and aerator restricting water flow
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