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14

Sounds like the screen in the aerator needs to be cleaned out. To clean the screen unscrew the aerator by hand, do not use a tool such as channel locks to do so because you'll mar the surface. This is what you might typically see in an aerator: Disassemble the aerator and clean everything, if you can see through each hole in the mesh screen it should ...


11

This is a feature of the faucet called "scald guard" that you can set to prevent overly hot water from burning people. I have a new construction and I found that the default setting was a bit overkill, so I adjusted it. You only need a small hex key (size?) to adjust the scald guard. Before you begin make sure you close the bathtub drain or put something ...


10

The stopper you're describing is called the diverter. The symptoms you're describing sound like it's gotten slightly bent or nicked. I would take it apart and try re-setting the pin. Maybe scrub it a bit with a light abrasive to true it up. If that doesn't work, replace it. I assume your diverter is in your tub spout. You can usually remove that by removing ...


10

This is an air gap fitting for your dishwasher drain. You still need it. Its job is to ensure that waste water in your drain cannot backup into your dishwasher. Since the dishwasher isn't really water tight above a certain level, this eliminates the risk of raw sewage from ending up on your floor via the dishwasher. The air gap needs to be above the flood ...


8

There are several possibilities for the cause of the leak -- incorrect valve placement, a worn washer, a worn valve. All of them will require you to remove the valve stem to investigate. You'll need: a plumbing valve wrench -- I have a set like this: Teflon plumber's tape. possibly some replacement washers (but you won't know until you've removed ...


8

I've had a couple of these over the years and found that their biggest benefit was the ability to convert to a spray for better rinsing of dishes if your sink doesn't have a separate sprayer, not so much their water-saving ability. Even though a 40% reduction sounds like a lot, your kitchen sink doesn't use that much water to begin with compared to, say, ...


8

I contacted Moen directly with this same question and they let me know that they recommended a model 1225 replacement cartridge instead (that's what I get for trusting the guy at the hardware store to look up the matching part for me). Technically either one will work but apparently the plastic 1225 offers a tighter fit than the brass (and more expensive) ...


8

Brass Hose Cap (~$1.50 @ Home Depot and Lowes). You may also be able to find some with tethers (for those of us that constantly lose things like this) .


8

Pfister is so aware of this problem they have a video on the problem http://www.pfisterfaucets.com/about/falling_handle.aspx Turns out they made a faucets with heavy metal handles but cheap plastic internal parts... after a few years they fail. I called up customer service, identified myself as an original owner, gave an approximate date of purchase, and ...


7

You need to replace the diverter, which in your case is also part of the spout. This should be a relatively easy and cheap replacement. Usually the spout is held on with a set screw located in the bottom - you loosen the screen and the spout will twist/pull off. Replace it with a new spout and diverter, tighten the screw and enjoy!


7

Generally you want the sink sprayer attachment to be getting its water flow from the point after when the sink faucet has turned on the water and mixed the hot and cold to the desired temperature. That means you need a faucet that supports the sprayer attachment. There is another safety factor involved with being able to shut off the pressurized water ...


6

Sounds like it is a problem with the diverter. It could be clogged, rusted, or even damaged, and as such, may either need to be cleaned (soaking in vinegar may help), or outright replaced. There are a couple types that Moen seems to use, so which one depends on your model. There is a collar-type vale: And there is another type with a smaller inner valve: ...


6

From the way you describe it, it sounds like it's a regular gate valve. You might be able to repair it as you describe by removing the packing nut and replacing whatever is broken or stripped out inside. The only exception to that would be a ball type valve, but those will just have a handle that makes only a 1/4 turn. Those generally aren't repairable, ...


6

both or one of your shut off valves is not shutting off completely and has a small drip which builds up in the cartridge housing. the new cartridge fills that void up causing it to leak again. This is the only logical explanation i can think of. You didnt say if you replaced the cartridge with a new or seals. So if not the do so and it should stop ...


6

The tool you need to get behind the sink to tighten the retainer nut is called a basin wrench. You can buy them anywhere for $8 to $40. They swivel to fit and have extended handle so you can turn it from below the sink level. Yes, you have to do it by sense of feel, or position a mirror to help you see the nut. Google sink wrench or basin wrench and you ...


6

As the comments have pointed out, that is a compression fitting and not a threaded fitting. Removing it should be relatively easy. Loosen the nut by holding the valve with one wrench and turning the nut with another. Once it is loose enough, the valve should just pull off the pipe. You will have to examine the exposed portion of pipe once you remove the ...


5

I may be way off base here but have you tried removing the aerator on the faucet and letting it run on both hot and cold fully open (separately)? It's possible that the aerator could be clogging up and causing pressure buildup. If you do not have copper pipes then it's possible that the buildup would be caused by rusting or oxidization in the pipes. Full ...


5

Most of these systems have some type of collar/sleeve that covers the internal valve assembly. I've seen them unsrew a small amount and begin to rub into the underside of the handle making it feel tight when turning off the valve. I would try taking off the handle and see if you can screw that sleeve into the wall a couple of turns.


5

There should have been a 'packing' in the stem assembly. This is usually a gasket or a series of gaskets that prevent water from seeping around the stem when the stem is in the off position. If the packing was in good shape (no cracks or brittleness) and was seated properly then I would say it's time to replace the whole fixture. In my past experience if ...


5

When you go to product site check out the "for owners" tab and open the second installation and care guide. On page 2, it shows the handle itself unscrewing so you can replace the red or blue color rings. Start opening it up there and see if you can work your way down to screw 55431 which is holding down the rest of the faucet to the valve. Upper ...


5

This is a picture of one example of a rough shower plumbing install: As you can see, at the top there is a cross brace, and there is a 90 degree angle that's been mounted into that brace secured, preferably with screws but possibly with nails. My guess? Your shower head was braced with nails, some idiot hit your shower head pipe pretty hard and pulled ...


5

You have to work your way back through the plumbing system to track this down, but start with the easy fix of a clogged aerator. Many kitchen faucets have an aerator that can be easily unscrewed and they usually have a mesh that not only aerates the water, but acts as a filter. If there was any junk in the pipes that got to this point, you can just wash it ...


5

Sounds to me like you have some air in the line. It could just be because you have a length of pipe/hose after the valve, which partly empties out when you shut the valve, trapping air. Or I supposed you could have a small leak somewhere in the system. But I probably wouldn't worry about it.


5

I found a company named Neoperl that makes a rectangular aerator which is what I believe you need:


5

In all likelihood you probably don't need to turn it off, but I would still recommend that you do so, if only because you might inadvertently hit the cold side of the faucet when working in the area. You know the saying - if it can go wrong, it will. What's easier - cleaning up lots of water, or turning the valve off and back on?


5

That is a backflow preventer, which makes sure that if the water pressure in the house plumbing drops, it doesn't suck water from the hose or whatever the hose might be sitting in. You can also find information on similar devices by searching for "vacuum breaker".


5

Durability - I have often seen the stainless/chrome plated hose breaking up after a few years... this is where the hose splits along the seam of the hose... This will not happen with the braided hose due to the fact that you have a netted sheath. Also. the braided pattern is more flexible than its counterpart. Cost - This hose is substantially cheaper ...


5

This is contra turn taps usually used for lever handle taps so they both turn away from the wall on a basin or turn both down in a shower or similar if used in vertical eg. Shower above and below you would get normal taps not contras so that they both turn in the same direction which are the ones that you are used to. Also re reading your post it seems that ...


5

I have had good luck getting these fittings to release with an open end wrench. Slide a wrench the same size as the outside diameter of the tubing over the tubing. Then use it to push in the release collar. It works well in tight areas or where the fittings are close together. If you have to replace any tubing a clean cut is required to get a good seal.



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