Hot answers tagged fastener
Screws: It doesn't sound like you're reattaching the entire floor; this is more like strategic intervals to solidify the fastening. Your nail/screw rate is not as important as if you were attaching a new subfloor from scratch. Glue and screw is popular for more reasons than just rhyming You're going through this effort to make it right. So do it right.
It depends on the type of mount. If it's an articulating arm mount, the bending moment at the wall is going to be a lot higher than if you're doing a flush mount. In that case the safest option would be to open up the drywall and put 2x4s inside the metal studs, and use the included wood screws to attach the mount to the new 2x4s. If this is a load ...
The hot-dipped galvanized requirement isn't for load, it's to prevent corrosion. For less load, you can get smaller nails. However, if you don't use the hot-dipped galvanized, then the chemicals in the PT lumber will cause a reaction with the metals in the nails and they will corrode much faster than if the nail was installed in non-PT lumber. Here's some ...
The velcro type product you posted looks like it has adhesive on both sides. The velcro itself would probably be plenty strong if the straps are large enough, but I suspect that adhesive on the wall would not work out well. It could fail too easily by simply ripping the top layer of paint off. Or, when you do want to move you are going to rip a big chunk ...
Screws. Nails will pull out over time.
Don't wait for the carpet installers. Find your worst squeaks, cut through the carpet and padding, and put the screws in there right now. Then you can hit any missed spots and otherwise stay out of the installers way tomorrow.
Looks to me like a drywall screw or nail has "bubbled out". It happens sometimes due to wall movement, especially with weather swings (like a real wet winter or a long drought). It also happens when moisture gets to a nail or screw and causes it to corrode. Hopefully your kinda new roof is not leaking. I don't see any signs of plaster discoloration ...
Poster putty is an adhesive, but supposed to not damage posters or walls. Similar products are sold under names like Sticky Tack, Mounting Putty, and Blu-Tack.
Yes, those are special pocket hole screws. They're basically just self drilling wood screws (which is why they have the fluted tips). Standard wood screws may work, but you are forced between trying to center a pilot hole at the bottom of your pocket or risk splitting the piece you're screwing into. As far as finding more of them, just search for "pocket ...
I hang my posters gallery-style. Get a piece of glass (or plexi) cut to the exact size of the poster. Buy some nice hanging nails and use them to rest the glass on - one at each corner. The nails pictured below have a really nice edge, hold the glass well, and leave very little damage to the wall. You can pick these up at a hardware store or a framing ...
Two nuts can be tightened against each other so that they won't come loose. A single nut can be tightened against whatever it's holding, and if that's wood, the nut can loosen as the wood changes size with changes in humidity.
If you're trying to completely change the treading on a nut or bolt with a tap and die, I don't think that's going to work very well. You may be able to get a new thread pitch, but it will be interleaved with the existing one, and all you'd be doing is weakening the thread material. If you need to simply fix some mangled threads, then have at. If you're ...
Screws would be the more 'sure' solution, but if your nailer can handle ribbed nails like this: Or a spiral shank: they'll hold pretty tight.
The only way I can think of is to use a frame ;) You don't need to frame each poster, but create something like the advertising hoardings you see on bus stops (in the UK at least) where the frame can open and a new poster inserted. So what you'll need to do is get a piece of glass or Perspex slightly larger than the poster you want to hang. Then create a ...
Epoxy is required in home building. Especially when attaching a wooden stud to an adjacent concrete wall. Architects and Engineers will usually specify a rod depth and that they are set with epoxy into the wall. The epoxy can be rolled onto the rod extensively and then placed into the hole. You usually allow the rod to set with the epoxy for 24 hours before ...
To answer your last question - oak will last significantly longer than pine. It can be left untreated and will harden. If you do use oak then dowels will be the ideal fixing mechanism as metal, particularly iron, will stain the wood. See the answer to this question on dowel sizes for what size dowel to use. They should be quite tight and if you get it ...
Shutter-loks are basically vinyl nails with annular rings to grip. They are meant to be removable by snipping them, confirming that they have low strength. Why not simply use screws of a similar length? You need a weatherproof type, such as these which are recommended for shutters. You could also use coated deck screws which come in several colors and ...
Any screw with a flat shoulder will work just fine. The trick is not splitting the material or protruding. Have a close look at the end of the included drill bit. It has a tip that creates the beginning of the pilot hole for the screw. Make that hole deeper and the proper diameter and you can use any kind of fastener you want.
Perhaps more important than the size of the screws (or other fasteners) is what they actually grasp. With any significant load, a screw will not hold by itself in tile or plaster. The tile will chip and the plaster will crumble. One possibility is to use an anchor through the tile and plaster that expands laterally. There are several types (plastic, ...
Expansion anchors may split concrete if used too close to the edge.
I'd find mounding hardware with a wide base, then use the 't-bolts' to anchor them (it's a bolt with spring-loaded 'wings' that expand inside the wall to grab the back-side of the sheetrock). The wider the base, the better, as it will distribute the load over a larger area of sheetrock. As for tensioning, you really do want the turnbuckle, as the cable ...
You can buy wood strips with a slit that (gently) grab the edge of the poster, distributing the weight across the width. There is a string that goes from end to end of the wood so you can hang it. These work great; my friend used to use them for his treasured anime posters.
I'd have to guess it's the manufacturers' logo. In addition to the indicated grade marking, all grades, except A563 grades O, A and B, must be marked for manufacturer identification. –americanfastener.com
Cats are just as capable of digging as dogs are. Dogs are capable of digging to get to a trapped and tasty treat. The best thing I can recommend, after years of work to contain psychotic dogs when they're outside, is to have a full enclosure -- top, bottom, all four sides.
250lb cable ties are made, yes. "industrial zip ties" seemed to be a pretty good search string for finding sources. Probably more the cold making the plastic brittle than the basic strength of the zip tie. They do make "large, industrial" zip ties (I've seen 3 feet long and half an inch wide, and they probably go bigger) but you'll probably get better cost ...
Depending how light your object is, a rare earth magnet will do the job nicely for some values of "light" and the particular magnet. Small ones are pretty affordable, hefty ones get expensive.
AFAIK, you don't even need the glue, though I'd probably use it myself. 8d might be a hair short. 10d driven at a slight angle (to avoid stickout with whatever size they shaved 2" lumber down to in the latest revision, 1-1/2" is so late 20th century...) might be better, especially if the old joists are from a thicker time in the history of 2" lumber.
T-beams can be connected to walls by welding a flat plate onto the end of the T-beam, drilling holes in this endplate, and then bolting through those holes onto the wall. Alternatively, brackets can be bolted to both the wall and the beam. Example of a simple connection. Example of a full moment connection. (Both examples are for I-beams, but the principle ...
I'm assuming none of these are structural shear walls since shot pins are inappropriate for such use. There is some arbitrary lateral load that interior partitions are supposed to resist, it's only 5 or 10 psf from memory, I can't find the reference at the moment. I'm not sure what the shot pins are rated for either. So without any more specific data, I ...
Epoxy! And you can do it to the paint, or scrape the paint off first. The later is stronger in general. Almost any common hardware store epoxy will do. And, should you change your mind, a good whap with a chisel and you can take it off cleanly.
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