Hot answers tagged

29

The nail heads aren't big enough for the holes. At that time carpenters didn't enjoy the vast array of fasteners and installation tools that we do today, so they may have used what was available at the moment. It did the job, right? ~ or ~ The carpenter had intended to replace them with lag screws and forgot. ~ or ~ There's something sensitive to ...


19

Screws: It doesn't sound like you're reattaching the entire floor; this is more like strategic intervals to solidify the fastening. Your nail/screw rate is not as important as if you were attaching a new subfloor from scratch. Glue and screw is popular for more reasons than just rhyming You're going through this effort to make it right. So do it right.


11

It depends on the type of mount. If it's an articulating arm mount, the bending moment at the wall is going to be a lot higher than if you're doing a flush mount. In that case the safest option would be to open up the drywall and put 2x4s inside the metal studs, and use the included wood screws to attach the mount to the new 2x4s. If this is a load ...


11

This is a ring shank nail they have very good pullout strength , Added for those that don't have 35+ years experience. The Ring shank nails I used in the 70's were 100% except for the tip. No matter how many groves are on the nail it is a Ring Shank nail!. We used them on sub flooring to reduce squeaking and on some kinds of siding where there were big ...


10

The hot-dipped galvanized requirement isn't for load, it's to prevent corrosion. For less load, you can get smaller nails. However, if you don't use the hot-dipped galvanized, then the chemicals in the PT lumber will cause a reaction with the metals in the nails and they will corrode much faster than if the nail was installed in non-PT lumber. Here's some ...


9

The velcro type product you posted looks like it has adhesive on both sides. The velcro itself would probably be plenty strong if the straps are large enough, but I suspect that adhesive on the wall would not work out well. It could fail too easily by simply ripping the top layer of paint off. Or, when you do want to move you are going to rip a big chunk ...


8

Screws. Nails will pull out over time.


8

Don't wait for the carpet installers. Find your worst squeaks, cut through the carpet and padding, and put the screws in there right now. Then you can hit any missed spots and otherwise stay out of the installers way tomorrow.


8

Yes, those are special pocket hole screws. They're basically just self drilling wood screws (which is why they have the fluted tips). Standard wood screws may work, but you are forced between trying to center a pilot hole at the bottom of your pocket or risk splitting the piece you're screwing into. As far as finding more of them, just search for "pocket ...


8

Because it is easy to remove the nails if required to move the post. The nails mostly hold the post in position until the overall weight of the building bears down a lot of pressure on the post. At that point it is mostly friction between the upper post plate and the beam that holds the post in position.


7

Looks to me like a drywall screw or nail has "bubbled out". It happens sometimes due to wall movement, especially with weather swings (like a real wet winter or a long drought). It also happens when moisture gets to a nail or screw and causes it to corrode. Hopefully your kinda new roof is not leaking. I don't see any signs of plaster discoloration ...


7

Poster putty is an adhesive, but supposed to not damage posters or walls. Similar products are sold under names like Sticky Tack, Mounting Putty, and Blu-Tack.


6

I hang my posters gallery-style. Get a piece of glass (or plexi) cut to the exact size of the poster. Buy some nice hanging nails and use them to rest the glass on - one at each corner. The nails pictured below have a really nice edge, hold the glass well, and leave very little damage to the wall. You can pick these up at a hardware store or a framing ...


6

In apartments that I have renovated it is standard to install metal channel furring strips. If you want depth you cross these with 1x or 2x4. The channels you glue and screw into ceiling. The wood is screwed into the channels. There are plenty of LED lighting kits that are sold now that can fit into 2-3 inches of space (remember you have the drywall ...


5

Two nuts can be tightened against each other so that they won't come loose. A single nut can be tightened against whatever it's holding, and if that's wood, the nut can loosen as the wood changes size with changes in humidity.


5

If you're trying to completely change the treading on a nut or bolt with a tap and die, I don't think that's going to work very well. You may be able to get a new thread pitch, but it will be interleaved with the existing one, and all you'd be doing is weakening the thread material. If you need to simply fix some mangled threads, then have at. If you're ...


5

Any screw with a flat shoulder will work just fine. The trick is not splitting the material or protruding. Have a close look at the end of the included drill bit. It has a tip that creates the beginning of the pilot hole for the screw. Make that hole deeper and the proper diameter and you can use any kind of fastener you want.


4

Screws would be the more 'sure' solution, but if your nailer can handle ribbed nails like this: Or a spiral shank: they'll hold pretty tight.


4

The only way I can think of is to use a frame ;) You don't need to frame each poster, but create something like the advertising hoardings you see on bus stops (in the UK at least) where the frame can open and a new poster inserted. So what you'll need to do is get a piece of glass or Perspex slightly larger than the poster you want to hang. Then create a ...


4

I'd find mounding hardware with a wide base, then use the 't-bolts' to anchor them (it's a bolt with spring-loaded 'wings' that expand inside the wall to grab the back-side of the sheetrock). The wider the base, the better, as it will distribute the load over a larger area of sheetrock. As for tensioning, you really do want the turnbuckle, as the cable ...


4

Epoxy is required in home building. Especially when attaching a wooden stud to an adjacent concrete wall. Architects and Engineers will usually specify a rod depth and that they are set with epoxy into the wall. The epoxy can be rolled onto the rod extensively and then placed into the hole. You usually allow the rod to set with the epoxy for 24 hours before ...


4

To answer your last question - oak will last significantly longer than pine. It can be left untreated and will harden. If you do use oak then dowels will be the ideal fixing mechanism as metal, particularly iron, will stain the wood. See the answer to this question on dowel sizes for what size dowel to use. They should be quite tight and if you get it ...


4

Shutter-loks are basically vinyl nails with annular rings to grip. They are meant to be removable by snipping them, confirming that they have low strength. Why not simply use screws of a similar length? You need a weatherproof type, such as these which are recommended for shutters. You could also use coated deck screws which come in several colors and ...


4

The bigger question is how many vertical supports and how long are they? 1/4" lags 2” into the 2x4 has 510lb pull out strength (255lb/inch) put 2 or 3 in each piece of strut and each one can handle hundreds of pounds. 5/16” lags 266lb/inch; 3/8"lags 305lbs/inch. You don’t need a very big lag bolt when using multiples. My examples have a small safety factor ...


3

Perhaps more important than the size of the screws (or other fasteners) is what they actually grasp. With any significant load, a screw will not hold by itself in tile or plaster. The tile will chip and the plaster will crumble. One possibility is to use an anchor through the tile and plaster that expands laterally. There are several types (plastic, ...


3

Expansion anchors may split concrete if used too close to the edge.


3

You can buy wood strips with a slit that (gently) grab the edge of the poster, distributing the weight across the width. There is a string that goes from end to end of the wood so you can hang it. These work great; my friend used to use them for his treasured anime posters.


3

I'd have to guess it's the manufacturers' logo. In addition to the indicated grade marking, all grades, except A563 grades O, A and B, must be marked for manufacturer identification. –americanfastener.com


3

Shear strength of the hardware isn't going to be a real concern. A single 1/4" Grade 5 lag bolt, in a configuration like this, will fail at roughly 13,000 lbs. Even 1/8" lag screws (well down into "numbered" screw sizes) will have a shear strength of over 3,000 pounds. Your piece of slate, if its density and dimensions are fairly regular for the species of ...


3

It depends on your local building codes, but most places in the US, they will insist on the joist hangers. Joist hangers are far stronger and safer. They are not that much more trouble, in fact they may be easier to work with. You can put them in half way, set the jousts in, then finish attaching them.



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