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2

Without running an additional switched hot lead, it can be done using radio frequency transmitting switches which control a RF receiver/relay which you would have to wire into the ceiling box. Leviton makes devices like that. They are neither simple nor cheap. In my opinion it would be easier, quicker, and cheaper to fish a new wire or even open the wall. ...


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Build a box that goes over the whole fan (on the attic side) in the winter-time. weatherstrip the bottom and weight as needed. This is also my preferred approach to the attic stairs that don't seal worth a darn. Duct-board (foil-stiff_fiberglass-foil) is probably the best material if you can find it - use aluminum foil duct tape for the joints. Nobody seems ...


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Check around the farm supply places - they carry big dampers. I used to have one about 36" square (the ex still has it). Try places like here and here.


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With that many red and black wires at the fan box you could have travelers for a 3 way in that box. If the switch is a 3 way and you cannot duplicate all of the original connections have an electrican wire it for you.


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WD-40 is a penetrating oil and corrosion preventative. As a lubricant, it is quite short term as it tends to evaporate. And the lubrication type for an electric motor depends on the type of bearing. Ball bearings require grease. Flush the bearing with solvent to clean out the old gunk and pack with a light bearing grease. Oilite style sleeve bearings ...


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WD40 is NOT an oil or lubricant, at least not longer term than a day or so. You need an oil for motors, like this: http://www.laco.com/lubricants/zoom-spout-oiler/ Zoom Spout Oiler EVERY household should have a bottle of this around.


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I am a retired electrician. The green wire is a ground wire. The purpose of it is to cause the breaker to trip or the fuse to blow if a short circuit develops. The majority of the time you can just hook up the white (neutral) and black or blue wires and never have any problem. HOWEVER! If a short circuit does develop you may burn the place down! If you ...


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Without actually being there, and not being able to see the wiring at each of the devices, it's difficult to be sure what's going on. But here's my best guess, based on past experience. To make it easier, I've numbered the ungrounded (hot) conductors in the photo from left to right. You've already established goes to a light. Supplies power to the ...


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Without any of the information that I asked for in my comments. I'd say the 3 wire (black red white) most likely goes to one of the fans or the light box. The light box if both fans are fan only. Check the right hand switch and the make up in the light box especially if the light looks new . Someone may have replaced the light and left the red wire at the ...


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According to the installation instructions for a Hunter Universal Fan & Light Remote Control (Model 27185), the device should be wired as follows. Green/bare from ceiling to green/bare from receiver and fan. Black from ceiling to black (hot) from receiver. White from ceiling to white (neutral) from receiver. Blue from fan to red (light) from ...


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Wire it this way. Connect the green to the ceiling fan's green wires and the bare copper ground wire in the ceiling box. Connect all white wires together. This will be the fans white wire, the fan control white wire and the white wire in the ceiling box. If the fan control does not have a white wire, connect the fan's white wire to ceiling box white ...


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Doing my best to interpret your question: First, call the unit you wire in with the fan the "receiver," since it receives signals from the remote transmitter to control the fan (and usually a light). The instructions that came with your receiver should explain what the "common out" is for. Without more clear information it could either be intended for ...



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