New answers tagged exterior
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My current home has a walkout basement that had a concrete slab for a patio. The rain gutters were too short allowing the rainwater to back flow against the basement wall. This also caused the dirt against the house to settle several inches below the concrete slab. The sump pump would eventually remove the water, but that was not a good situation. What I ...
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I have encountered a similar situation in a house I am buying for my elderly parents. The house has a concrete pad up against the house that connects to the asphalt driveway and has no slope. The adjacent basement wall is bowed 3". A licensed foundation expert indicated the hydro-static pressure caused the wall to bow. He recommended the concrete be ...
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If you're going for maximum lifetime, you should make sure to prime all cuts with an oil based primer. If the lumber didn't come pre-primed, then prime all surfaces with an oil based primer. If you use a fast drying primer, you can get a coat of paint over the cut before you install it. I wouldn't worry about using a "sealant" between the boards. I'm ...
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I would apply paint to the outside walls and trim surfaces with an air sprayer. Make sure that the walls are fully and properly prepped before applying paint. There can be no better way to get a excellent looking and uniform paint job than spraying.
Paint brushing the outside of a house is the old fashioned way of doing it before paint sprayers were ...
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You absolutely want to use a brush for most exterior surfaces, and definitely the siding and trim. The only time to ever use a roller is on a large flat surface (think drywall, or plywood paneling) -- in the image you provided I might use a roller for the white soffit, but that's it and only if it's a large house.
Aside from avoiding unsightly "orange ...
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I'd always use a brush on weatherboard. Using a roller will require you to roll in sideways strokes rather than up and down which would be harder than just using a brush.
If you have flat walls of plaster or stucco then a roller is actually quicker and easier.
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If it does make the most sense to attach it to the house (best if there is a roof overhead for both of these):
Nothing fancy but solid:
A bracket underneath the rail. This would be the type that looks like an "L" with both ends the same length and has pre drilled holes. The wider and longer the bracket is the better. They are galvanized and durable. Use ...
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You call it a patio, so I assume it is not a wood deck (which would be easier to add a railing). I'd avoid attaching it to the house though it seems that the other end of the patio roof may be tied to the house already.
Consider driving a super spike into the ground at each end to hold a post that will be the ends of the railing. At a 10 foot span, you'll ...
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Slope the ground away from the house, forget the paint.
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