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Painting is challenging, especially painting old wood windows that are larger than doors. Ha ha ha. But the task you are talking about, you should use a brush. A roller will make your task harder. Buy two brushes, one regular size brush and one small brush (inch wide) for the areas that need edging. Rollers do work well for painting straight flat surfaces, ...


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If you shoot the whole thing with primer, then there's little concern about acrylic-over-oil versus oil-over-acrylic. The primer does need to be chemically compatible with the new paint, of course, unless you shoot a layer of shellac before painting (shellac is compatible with nearly everything in the world). Acrylic as a topcoat may last about as long as ...


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You should always seal (when you say stain I'm guessing you mean seal) all 4 sides and both ends of a board (if possible) so it takes in moisture/humidity evenly. Otherwise it can lead to cupping, warping, and twisting. This isn't always a problem but it can be.


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Having been a painter (who coincidentally also did alot of deck staining) I can say that it doesn't really matter. Stain of course is there to protect and seal the wood but the bottom is not going to get the direct sunlight and moisture the top will. When fairly easily accessible we always stained the bottom but that was more for aesthetics really because ...


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The basic procedure for removing a door is: remove casing, remove screws from jamb/brick mold, and push the door out of the hole, brick mold still attached. Unfortunately your situation calls for some more devious tactics. Because the outer molding appears to be part of the transum casing (assuming you're leaving that part alone) you're probably better off ...



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