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Buy a 5" holesaw (and a drill sturdy enough to drive it). Cut a 5" hole in a big chunk of plywood. Screw/nail/clamp the plywood in the place where you want the hole. Drill away. If you're having a hard time with the drill binding and trying to twist your wrist off, run it in reverse. It's much slower, but you won't have the same problem. Couple more tips: ...


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If you can't get a center pilot drill to guide the cut, you can guide it by the outside edge: Get the 5" holesaw. Use it to cut a hole out of a board or piece of plywood (or several pieces of plywood stacked and screwed-and-glued together). Center this 5" hole over the 4" hole, and temporarily anchor it firmly in place somehow (a few nails or screws, ...


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At my house, I was fortunate to have an exterior outlet, directly below where I wanted to mount my camera. I tapped into that outlet with a Romex cable, and ran it up the inside of the wall. I cut a large hole, and mounted a 3-gang electical box, and ran the Romex into it. I wire the Romex to a small DC power supply. I mounted the camera to a 3-gang ...


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Short answer: Find out what the Head inspector will accept and get it in writing. For exterior gypsum, I use Densglass Gold as a backer for siding in Wildland areas that require fire rating. This only requires 1/2" gypsum but 5/8" is available for higher fire rating. And yes I agree that it should go on the outside of the sheathing - but that is for the ...


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Ready for muddy water? If you go by solely by code, 2012 IRC Table R302.1(1) specs out a 1 hour TESTED wall assembly with fire from both sides. As an individual component, IBC Specs out a 40 min rating per layer of 5/8" Type X so to have a 1 hour untested assembly you would need two layers EACH SIDE. The only way to get the 1 hour rating is to use a ...



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