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Install a vapour barrier boot where your fan will go. Seal boot to existing vapour barrier. Mount fan inside boot. Cut hole like an X where elec and vent pass through. Seal holes around elec and vent with tuc tape and with accoustic sealant. Make sure vent pipe is insul wrapped


According to IRC, the duct must be made from galvanized steel, stainless steel or copper. It must have a smooth interior, and be air tight. Which means you're not going to want to use a flexible product for this application, especially that flexible plastic crap. Instead, you'll want to use rigid duct like this. And you'll want to make sure you seal all ...


Best is sticking with rigid ducting that is the same size as the output of your stove hood, with as little elbows/direction changes in the shortest distance possible. Make sure the size is rated (or overrated) for the output of your hood - minimum you want is 6", and that's just for a 300-400CFM hood. If you can choose, given the same distance, go up ...


Hard pipe is recommended because it will work much better and is unlikely to be crushed or compromised.


Greg has a good answer. However as an alternative and something people can do in less attractive rooms (think basement) - Use rigid ducts. Buy some fancy strapping - I have a bundle I bought from a HVAC wharehouse. Install duct minus strapping Paint them with an auto-primer (this can be bought in big box spray paint section for $5). Put flooring paper ...


Asbestos. (lgam.info/asbestos-cement-pipe) You'd need cast couplings: (ebay, Smith Blair Industrial Ad)


Extending the exhausts (to the roof or around the corner) seems the only reasonable solution to me. Check the installer's manual to see if it needs to be in 3" for the new distance length.

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