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1

You could run both vent ducts to the same area and then install two vent caps side-by side. Your wall opening would have to be twice as big, but at least you would only have to do one cut, flashing, etc.


2

I don't know about code compliance. But, this might work for you: 1 Y-Connector at the outside vent. 2 Backdraft Dampers (one on each leg) at the Y to stop the backflow of noxious gases from one fan(on) to the other (off). Note that the backdraft dampers will add to the resistance of the duct work. You may wish to move up to the next size of duct. ...


3

This is an acceptable solution for multi-tenant buildings where the exhaust fans from multiple units vent in to a common duct. The booster fan in the floor vent makes sure that the air pressure in the room being vented is higher than the common duct. The booster fan can pull air through the central AC/hear air handler even if it's not running. This lightens ...


1

Reconsider a weight. A solution I've used for both my bath fan vent as well as dryer vent is to glue a nut (machine bolt type) as a weight near the lower flap edge. However, my particular dryer run is very short - a few feet, and the bath vent run is no more than 10 feet with a 70cfm fan. The vents run well with very little added back-pressure. I used Goop ...


3

I think you just need to find a better built vent hood. The first one I found searching on HD specifically calls out this problem in the description: Unlike other versions that tend to rattle in the wind, the back draft damper on the ProMax cap has been designed for noise and wind resistance and its stylish wide mouth appearance helps to optimize the ...



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