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5

If you accidentally broke the tab between the black (common) screws on the swtich, simply use two short pigtails off the supply line like this... If you have two separate cables (one to the fan, and one to the light), then you'd wire it up like this... And again if you've clipped the tab between the terminals, it will look like this... Here is ...


3

Leaking air, or leaking water? If leaking air, either replace it if it's degraded, or try duct joint sealant (which stands a somewhat better chance of lasting than duct tape.) "Leaking" water - a bathroom exhaust vent needs to be heavily insulated all along its length, and should preferably run straight up, then turn and slope gently to the outside, so ...


2

I don't know about code compliance. But, this might work for you: 1 Y-Connector at the outside vent. 2 Backdraft Dampers (one on each leg) at the Y to stop the backflow of noxious gases from one fan(on) to the other (off). Note that the backdraft dampers will add to the resistance of the duct work. You may wish to move up to the next size of duct. ...


2

You said that "I've checked and the wiring is there for the permanent live as well as switched live," so my assumption is that one switch is connected to both of these. In this configuration, you will have the hot from the line connecting to the switch, and then the switch connecting to the two hots for the light and fan. Use a wirenut and attach two pig ...


2

I'm not sure about the UK, but in the US we have in-wall timer units that are often used for this purpose. Like this Maestro timer from Lutron.


2

Please excuse my artwork. I need more practice. The yellowish wires are the white neutral wires (I should have made the background gray.) and are all tied together and also connect to the neutral of the outlet. The bare copper grounds are all tied together and connected to the ground screw of both items. A wire nut capped pigtail is fine for that, though ...


2

If the timer is in the fan, it may not be possible to disable the timer without disabling the fan itself. Based on the labels (L,T,N), I would guess that L is the switched input for the light and T is a switched input that starts the timer for the fan. You can test this by disconnecting the T terminal (make sure you cap the bare wire before turning the ...


2

I am assuming that new fan is bigger or same size. You have joists that this is nailed/screwed into. Try not to damage adjacent drywall. I am going to guess from this picture your joists are on the top/bottom of picture. This is because your exhaust/and electric look to be coming from the left. I would cut straight along the top and bottom (using ...


2

You would use a coupling tape and hose clamps. You use thin flex aluminum duct like shown in picture but I like to stick with the semi rigid flex duct. Zip ties can be used on thin stuff but not semi rigid.


2

Cutting a hole through brick is no big deal. You could use one of these as a disposable hole saw for $20: Or one of these as the "right" tool, which will be reusable for $75: Most hole saws require a 1/2 inch drill plus a ~$10 arbor, both of which will be very useful for other projects in the future, like installing door knob sets in new doors, ...


1

I don't see how a desiccant could possibly remove moisture rapidly enough to be helpful, and it also just traps the moisture instead of getting rid of it. Once the desiccant is saturated it won't absorb any more moisture (or it will just release it back into the attic — the whole problem you're trying to avoid). A dehumidifier with a drain in the attic near ...


1

There is no quicker way to remove odors or moisture than a properly ducted exhaust fan. Surprisingly enough, it is not that difficult to break a hole through the brick and duct it out the side wall of the house, especially if you have a rotary hammer. Ducting through the attic is no issue either as long as if you are in a area that has cold winter climates, ...


1

I would 'push' and 'pull' with "muffin fans" I would locate the 'push' side in the toe-kick area in the cabinet to the left and put the 'pull fan inside the top left wall (in the cabinet to the right of the icemaker) this should pull out the hot air at the top and supplement with relatively cooler air near the floor. Fan shrouding, plug in timer for ...


1

While this doesn't directly answer your question, maybe you should consider a true window fan such as this one It delivers 740 CFM, has a thermostat, is not too expensive (less than $50) and will be much more effective in ensuring the flow of outside air into the room. It's also reversible, so it can be used as an exhaust fan as well. If you need more ...


1

Try installing a vent in the door, it will allow the room to breath. Make sure the exhaust from the dryer is sealed all the way around where it exists the wall, then go outside and do the same thing. Check the roof edge and make sure you aren't having water drain behind the gutter into the wall. Then climb into the attic when it rains with a big light and ...


1

Most wall mount ventilation fans are intended to go thru an exterior wall to a cap. Your plan will work, if you make allowances to support the duct away from the wall a bit, to make the initial turn down. Use smooth duct and metal tape for sealing duct sections. update Be sure to slope all horizontal runs of the duct such that they will drain any ...



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