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5

If you have access to the attic; and presumably the top of the bathroom fan, you may be able to follow the duct. If you don't have access to the top side of the fan, you could remove the cover and take a peek inside. You should be able to get a glimpse of the outlet, which should allow you to determine if there's ducting attached. In my house, the ...


4

Typically you'd run 14/2 to the vanity, and 14/3 to the fan/light combo. In the switch box, Connect all the grounded (neutral) conductors. Connect all the grounding conductors. Connect the ungrounded (hot) conductor from the vanity to the switch. Connect one of the ungrounded (hot) conductors from the light/fan to the switch. Connect the other ...


3

WD-40 is a penetrating oil and corrosion preventative. As a lubricant, it is quite short term as it tends to evaporate. And the lubrication type for an electric motor depends on the type of bearing. Ball bearings require grease. Flush the bearing with solvent to clean out the old gunk and pack with a light bearing grease. Oilite style sleeve bearings ...


2

You can do it using only 12/2 and 12/3 cables like this. Or you could use 12/2 and 12/4 cables like this. Because there will be so many wires in the box, you'll want to get at least a 34 cu. in. double gang box. Like this one. NOTES: I've excluded grounding conductors from the images to increase clarity. Do not forget to connect all grounding ...


2

Pull the cover: inspect the fan to see if it is full of lint or debris, you may simply need to clean it. While you're there: Get the model number of the fan and verify that it has the correct CFM for the size bathroom it is installed in. If it is under rated, consider replacing the fan with one that is more powerful; some decent fans start as low as 50$ ...


2

Fan vibration is mostly a matter of fan quality (which unfortunately is not as simple as price, though it's sometimes related.) Bearings and how well the fan blades are balanced are the main influences. You can also switch to an inline duct fan located away from the bathroom - any vibration would be non-local to the bathroom, at least, and as a general (but ...


2

In rooms with no shower or bath, 25' should be no problem. Just run the smooth wall pipe and go with 4" diameter. For the rooms with showers and baths it should not be a problem if you can get it go vertical into the attic, then slope down towards the exit. Even at 25' it should not be a problem. You could even possibly use ABS pipe for the sloped run ...


2

A simple on/off switch is best for a fan. This is a 'single-pole' switch. For a rocker style, something like this would work http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-15-Amp-Single-Pole-AC-Quiet-Switch-White-R72-05601-2WS/100058788 The switch will most likely be rated for 15 amps. This is fine, the switch must be the same as or more than the fan.


1

To do what you ask: Disconnect the supply for the fan switch - wire-nut and tape it (it will be going no-where.) If it's a jumper from the light switch supply, just remove the jumper. If the light switch is supplied by a jumper from the fan, remove the jumper and move the supply to the light switch. Put a pigtail on the light switch switched hot, and ...


1

This is symptomatic of a poor connection somewhere, or a bad-on-arrival fan. I'd rewire the switches using the screw terminals as a first step (don't forget to hook the grounds up when you do), and if that does not cure it, I'd try Craig's troubleshooting suggestion of switching the fan and the light. If the fan still acts up, then return the fan to ...


1

Just a couple of points to keep in mind... 1) Any exhaust fan is moving air out of the house...that means there is outside air coming INTO the house somewhere to make up for the lost air volume. Speaking only about temperature, this could be a good thing or bad depending on where most of that air is coming in. For instance, if it is getting sucked in from ...


1

Dryer vents need regular maintenance. Period. No one ever does it, of course, which is why every time you buy a new house, you pretty much need to replace the old vent because no one ever cleaned it out. Ideally, you'd clean the lint out every 6 months or so. A booster fan can help, but doesn't necessarily eliminate any of the maintenance. Plus, you now ...


1

They're often called dryer booster fans. They aren't particularly difficult to install, and they are reasonably effective. However, they also have some significant downsides - the fan itself obstructs the the vent pipe, which makes it much more difficult to effectively clean the vent, and it will further reduce airflow and increase lint accumulation should ...


1

No, this is not a code requirement for laundry rooms in dwelling units (at least in the 2012 IBC). In fact, most dryers are essentially acting as exhaust fans when they run because they take air from the room and exhaust it outside.


1

The switch must be in a listed and labeled enclosure, or the switch itself must have a built-in enclosure. The switch should also be rated for the voltage, and current, to which it will be subjected. You'll also want to make sure the switch is attached in such a way, that normal use will not rip it from the enclosure. Pull chains can be subjected to a lot ...


1

1 white which is hot, and 2 greys which are hot...the switch is on 2 seperate breakers. This means that: new switch it only has 1 common hook up, then 3 other connectors on the otherside. The new switch will NOT work here. You cannot feed from "2 separate breakers" to "1 common hookup" - you need a different switch that more closely matches the ...


1

The primary concern with any opening is bulk water infiltration. Sound practice is a minimum of 8" between the sill of the opening and the roof surface to provide for proper flashing and counterflashing. 12" is better. So long as the duct layout and clearances are consistent with the manufacturer's recommendations, the installation should otherwise be fine. ...


1

Pure speculation here, but the theory is solid: The vibration may have been caused by, or exacerbated by, an imbalance on the fan blades due to a buildup of dust and grime. I've noticed that the intake grilles of bathroom fans, if not cleaned, tend to build up dust. Periodic cleaning of the fan blades (not merely the grille), if they can be accessed, may be ...


1

Not counting the ground wires, you have four insulated conductors. One could be the supply hot, each of the others could be switched hot leads. The presumption would be that the neutral is in the ceiling box and not present in the wall box. Totally possible. If this is true, please mark the switched hot leads appropriately.


1

Build a box that goes over the whole fan (on the attic side) in the winter-time. weatherstrip the bottom and weight as needed. This is also my preferred approach to the attic stairs that don't seal worth a darn. Duct-board (foil-stiff_fiberglass-foil) is probably the best material if you can find it - use aluminum foil duct tape for the joints. Nobody seems ...


1

Check around the farm supply places - they carry big dampers. I used to have one about 36" square (the ex still has it). Try places like here and here.



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