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25

Bathroom vent fans must be vented to the out of doors. Venting this fan into the attic is simply asking for problems. The excessive moisture will cause condensation on the roof members, insulation and eventually cause mold. It is never OK to vent directly into an attic even if the attic itself is vented. So, the simple correct answer is NO. Your friends ...


21

A bathroom exhaust fan should vent directly outside with its own dedicated duct, for exactly the reasons you are stating.


16

You have two big issues here. First is that you have a serious risk of venting sewer gasses into your home. This is why drain vents open above the roof line or use one-way air admittance valves. This is likely to be unpleasant and possibly unhealthy. Second is that a drain vent is typically too small and too moist to properly vent a bathroom fan. Your fan ...


14

See this question. The long and short of it is that a vent fan, whether for a bathroom, a range hood or a clothes dryer, is normally removing very humid air from the room. If that air is not exhausted beyond the waterproof "skin" of your house (up through the roof beyond the shingles, or out the side of the house beyond the siding or brick), then you are not ...


9

What you show in the picture is known as a One-way Breather Vent (there are also two-way). Its intended purpose is to provide pressure equalization throughout the roof system and also provides ventilation for the insulation system. In some buildings that do not have a vapor barrier (even some that do), pressure changes inside the building can be forced ...


9

Soffit Pros Vent easier to install In heavy snow areas, not likely to be blocked Cons Soffits are designed for intake, so it's possible the air will be sucked back into the attic Moist air can collect under the soffit Roof Pros Heat and moisture want to rise Keeps moisture away from walls, windows, siding Cons Can be blocked with heavy snow ...


8

The National Electrical Code (NEC) does not require bathroom exhaust fans to be GFCI protected, however, there is this bit in Article 110. 110.3 Examination, Identification, Installation, and Use of Equipment. (B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing ...


7

The natural flow of air in an attic is going to be pulling air in through the soffit vents and out through the roof vents/ridge vent. The problem I see with exausting the air through a soffit vent is that the natural flow is going to tend to pull that moist air right back in through the soffit vents and into the attic again. Given that the air flow ...


7

You may have condensation running down the vent pipes into the fans; given how a vent pipe attaches to the back of a fan, the condensation will tend to run to the side(s) of the fan fixtures. Are the vent pipes uninsulated and in a cold space? Could condensation have frozen inside of the pipe, and then melted at the same time as the snow? Would the snow ...


7

Is it sufficient to put a window fan in the window when cooking? If not, there are ductless range hoods, also known as recirculating range hoods. These filter the air and lets it back out in the room.


6

As far as I know, it doesn't really matter as long as it's vented outside. Venting into the attic is Very Bad -- in the winter, the humid air will condense and (if cold enough) freeze, and you'll effectively have water in the attic. For any vents, the straighter the run is, the more efficient and quieter it is. Avoid corrugated pipes, and avoid bends and ...


6

That must be one powerful fan to require a dedicated 20 amp line. WOW. The silver wire you see is probably a tinned copper wire. (solder on the end of a stranded copper wire). To connect a 12 and 14 AWG set of wires together, you should use a yellow wirenut. If in fact the tinned conductor is smaller than a 14 AWG, you could use an orange wirenut. If you ...


6

If you accidentally broke the tab between the black (common) screws on the swtich, simply use two short pigtails off the supply line like this... If you have two separate cables (one to the fan, and one to the light), then you'd wire it up like this... And again if you've clipped the tab between the terminals, it will look like this... Here is ...


5

Sometimes with stranded wire, they will tin the ends with solder. I would guess this is the case here since you're right that aluminum is not usually used. I think the only reason they do this is to keep the ends from fraying and keep it neat. You can check for sure by stripping new ends. I have never seen stranded aluminum, or anything less than 12awg ...


5

I think Chris is right, warm moist air from outside is coming into the vent and condensing on the cooler inside surfaces. Fixing this could be as easy as fixing or replacing the outside vent damper so it closes properly. You could also go for a vent damper that installs within the vent itself. And finally, you can insulate the pipe so that the vent pipe ...


5

You should use a separate outlet for the pipe as the existing vents won't be able to cope with the volume of air and you'll probably end up with steam in the loft. Did you buy a kit or separate components? If you've got a kit then there should be an outlet grille in that, if not you should be able to get one at the same place you bought the fan and flex ...


5

In my experience, most decent exhaust fans are dual rated, ceiling or wall. If your fan is described as a ceiling mount only, it is probably one of many inexpensive units that use plastic bushings instead of sealed bearings. If you can easily jiggle the fan blade or squirrel cage axle in it's end bushing mounts, then I probably wouldn't waste my time using ...


4

Ok, if the snow fairy didn't land on every fan individually, then I think we have a common problem between fans. If your roof vent has a common back flow air baffle, I'd check it to see if it is stuck open, allowing snow to blow into the vent pipes. Second and not really likely is a leak around the flashing. A leak around the flashing would appear on the ...


4

This is a very common problem. The person above who mentioned a condensation trap is right on the money. No matter how powerful a fan, how well insulated the duct, you are blowing warm, MOIST, air into cold air which makes that moisture in the air condense into water droplets. A condensation trap, which can be as simple as a bit of a loop in the flexible ...


4

I'll answer my own question a month after the installation. Inline are great, especially high-quality ones such as Fantech. Highly recommended.


4

If you put a couple of sheet metal screws in the joints, and tape them with foil tape, you should be able to do a 5 foot vertical rise with support at the roof boot or where you contact the rafters. You could use straps, but usually the boot if sized properly will be fine if the bottom of the run is supported well.


4

The three pairs of wires correspond to the three functions. You should be able to find labels or a note in the manual explaining which is which, but for now I'll assume: black/white: main light red/white: fan blue/white: night light The green wire is a ground wire. How you wire this up depends on what you have available. A 3-way switch will not help you ...


4

Bad, bad, bad. Mold will be in evidence shortly in the loft (attic), as we go into warmer weather. The vent must run to the exterior, either through a gable wall or through the roof. Its easier to properly down-slope to the gable wall (to eliminate any condensation in the vent pipe. To reduce pipe condensation (either inside or outside of pipe), a jacket ...


3

OK, my understanding is that you have a stove on a section of counter that doesn't have a wall immediately behind it. This could result in a "peninsula" design, or an outright "island". Either way, what you want is an "island-mount vent hood". They're designed to install in the ceiling instead of against a wall, for stoves that are out in the middle of a ...


3

The warmer air exhausted from the bath entering a cold environment will condense and create moisture. It will create high humidity which will lead to mold growth. this will become a health issue as well as rot the wood. You want to vent it to outdoors, never indoors.


3

I have seen where a bathroom fan is run to a charcoal filter and then vented back into the interior of the house. A terrible idea, as you noted, it is a recipe for mold!


3

It shouldn't be a problem to vent the range hood out the wall, just make sure you check your local codes before doing so. I wouldn't think this would be a problem, but there could be different laws in densely populated areas as apposed to rural regions. And laws/codes can vary depending on your locale. Make sure you install the vent properly, and include ...


3

Would it not be better to simply purchase a fan designed to be installed into a wall? It may well vary from fan to fan but all the ceiling exhaust fans I'm familiar with don't really like being mounted vertically. They are normally designed to correctly load their bearings only when ceiling mounted. If you do mount them vertically you can expect the ...


3

DO NOT VENT TO THE ATTIC. I speak from experience. While trying to sell my (town) house I discovered a mold problem in the attic. We had a bathroom venting to a duct that was just stapled to a roof joist. I knew this was there and monitored it over the course of the 5 years I occupied it. Of course, it was never a problem until we went to sell it, then ...


3

You could use a spray foam insulation like Great Stuff. It sticks to just about everything and expands to fill voids.



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