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Dense Packed Denim With Breathable Reflective Insulation On Both Sides Of The Denim. I'm not referring to a radiant barrier.


Better idea: get panels with their own micro-inverters. Then you can add more panels at will in the future. Bonus: micro-inverters are more efficient than a central inverter and will last longer.


This depends on exactly what equpiment you're using. My system was designed to have one inverter for each 2 panels, all synchronized to each other and to the power lines so I can do "net metering" rather than having to maintain any kind of local power storage. Other kits may be configured other ways. Talk with whoever is designing your installation, or if ...


A dehumidifier is about the same as a window AC unit with both parts in the house, for most purposes. They draw just as much power as an A/C unit of similar size (or more if they happen to be old and inefficient.) Given that the required energy labeling on A/C units tends to promote a degree of of paying attention to that, and it's much less clear on ...


Use rigid foam. You can cut it with a circular saw, or with a utility knife. Buy a 2 inch sheet that's R13, you an always double it up to get R26. Measure the size you need and cut with a circular saw, it cuts like butter. Make 2 and then attach to each other and the door with silicone. You will still possibly have issues with air leakage around the door, ...


One recommendation is to use rigid foam insulation attached with caulking, liquid nails, or silicone.


A rigid foam (or ductboard) box in the attic which sits over (is larger than) the door opening. When you open the door, the box is still there. When you enter the attic you lift the box out of the way. When you are done in the attic, you lift the box back into position over the door, then close the door.

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