New answers tagged electrical
0
This could be a bunch of problems, from a missing ground to a voltage spike, to dying speakers, etc...
First of all, it would be helpful to rule in/out the computer as the source of the popping. It's possible your computer's sound card is not great and is sending those noises to the speaker, which is faithfully playing them. Try plugging the speakers into a ...
1
If it is a fairly lightweight fixture, you could try a zip tie or two around the cord. This may not work depending on how hard the cord is and how heavy the lamp is. But I have used them with light weight pendants and cords that had some flex so the zip tie could squish the sheath a bit to keep it from slipping.
Another option, if there is enough space, ...
0
I am an Australian based Home Automation installer and Systems Integrator rather then shutting off the entire homes power locate the circuit breakers for the Air Conditioner and switch them off.
As the power that goes to the Thermostat comes directly from the air-cons main unit (usually outside)
0
Melt the cord at the end into a wad, either directly with a cigarette lighter, or indirectly with the heated end of a metal object. Do it in the kitchen under the stove's ventilation fan with the water running in the kitchen sink.
0
Also see What should I look for when diagnosing electrical circuit gremlins where load is much less than capacity?. I had pretty much the same sort of problem, and while the answer isn't pretty, it may be a train-of-thought option.
0
If I'm understanding your diagram correctly, I'm assuming you want to run the conduit on the bottom surface of the joist or finished ceiling, rather than inside the finished ceiling (or on the side of the joist).
Either way, one option is to make your 90 degree turn with an elbow or L below the top plate of the wall, and then use an offset fitting to bring ...
1
I can see two motors. They have a 2A fuses on them and most likley are just normal brush motors 10vdc~15vdc
I know this because there are only 2 wires to both of them. Stepper motors use 4 or more wires and need special circuits to make the motor spin. There are some that use 3 wires that might also require a special circuit.
Unfortunately there is no ...
2
It's fairly standard
In your case the red/white pair is probably from the switch, red probably live and white switched live (normally in my part of the world it would have red tape on it to indicate switched live). The other two twin+earth cables are mains supply and continuation to next light fitting. Your wires were connected directly to the light ...
0
Does the machine work at all right now? If so you could use a multimeter to at least figure out if the power is AC or DC and how many volts it requires.
3
From the description of odd voltage readings, and the fact that you shorted the connection and still couldn't get the bell to ring, I'm guessing the transformer failed. It wouldn't be the door bell button or that wiring since you eliminated that with the shorting. And since you later tested with another power source and verified that the door bell chimes ...
1
I agree with DMoore that the flickering is almost certainly caused by a voltage dip when a large appliance turns on. A fridge can easily pull 1000+ watts momentarily as the compressor starts.
If you want to verify the voltage dip you can do so with a multimeter with a "MIN" function. Insert the multimeter probes into the outlet that's giving you trouble, ...
2
When the fridge turns on (some) and when (some) ovens start their capacitors pull a ton of voltage to start the motor/function needed.
If these are on the same circuit as your TV this is a pretty big issue and the fluctuations could cause damage to your TV circuit board over time.
Even if these aren't on the same circuit your TV is getting a voltage ...
1
Have you considered using a surface mount box which would allow more space for insulation in the wall behind the electrical panel?
You should definitely do as much as you can to prevent air leaks.
0
Gas fireplaces don't require much maintenance. You also get the benefit of a more natural looking flame (although the modern electrics are pretty impressive).
2
As far as I'm aware, there are no requirements for outdoor receptacle outlets to be multiwire branch circuits. However, there may be some other safety requirements you'll want to consider.
Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter Protection
If you follow National Electrical Code (NEC), the 2008 version section 210.8(A)(3) requires that outdoor receptacle outlets ...
3
A dual circuit (where you have one hot conductor on one outlet and another hot conductor on a second outlet and they share a neutral) may not be 'required' anywhere. This kind of circuit is called a 'multi wire branch circuit', if you're having trouble finding the right verbage to find out it's required in your locality.
It probably should be a GFCI outlet ...
0
I would use boxes or at least caps to prevent insects from using your conduit as an expressway. At worst, you could have water moving down from a leak; at best, you might have cold air moving down.
0
This is what your circuit looks like now.
Click for larger view
Start by turning the power off at the breaker, and verify power is off using a non-contact voltage tester.
When you look at the side of the receptacles, you'll see a small tab between the screw terminals.
Using a pair of pliers, break the tab off of the ungrounded (hot) side of the ...
11
Do I just replace hot/neutral with hot/hot?
Absolutely not! You have a vital step to complete before you can do that.
Note that the bottom picture would have been a little better if you had pulled the cord up so we could see the numbers on the white plastic block.
In this motor, you are working with two sets of wires, the electrical cord and a pair ...
0
The feed could be coming from either outlet, but no way to know which based on what you have provided. There appears to be additional outlets on this circuit.
Easy answer -- The two blacks tied together in Outlet #2 are always live. As are the two black and a white in outlet #1. You should confirm this with a tester .(I assume you know what you are doing -- ...
3
It sounds like you still have some rewiring left to do, the fan shouldn't stop while the compressor is on. If the fan isn't on, your air conditioner won't be able to dissipate all of the heat that is generated by the compressor, making the compressor less effective ( or not at all effective ).
0
I had the same problem. It is the wattage limiting black box that is bad if you used the bulbs that came with it and it doesn't work. I am an electrician so I found it to be a simple fix.
Turn off power at the switch. Open the bottom of the fan where you plugged the light in. You are basically going to bypass the little black box that goes into the lights. ...
2
Based on the LED strip that you have, your power supply will not be enough. You need a minimum of 4 amperes to fully power the strip.
4
These are called Bullet connectors. They're used as a male/female pair, and allow for quick, repeated connection and disconnection of a circuit. They can be found at any automotive supply store, and some hardware stores.
If you won't need to disconnect and reconnect the wires, you can simply cut the connector off, strip the wire, and use whatever other ...
0
The HO bulbs require more power output to operate than regular bulbs... and that is why there is an HO ballast, to provide that extra power. You could put a regular bulb in an HO fixture, but not vice versa.
1
Yes, that would be fine. What you see is one side of a push-type connector that allows the wires to be disconnected and reconnected.
3
Check the markings on different electrical boxes. According to the National Electrical Code (NEC) (which is not applicable in all areas, so check local codes), boxes that support ceiling fans should be listed for the purpose.
National Electrical Code 2008
ARTICLE 314 Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes; Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and Handhole ...
1
I love that you're putting a subpanel in your garage.
When you go to buy wire, check the price of aluminum. Last time I did this, I went looking for #8 copper, and got #2 aluminum at 1/2 the price. That was a bundle of 2-2-2-4 SER (service entrance) rated for direct burial, but I put it in conduit anyway.
Your finding that #3 copper will carry 100A looks ...
1
The NEC wants you to avoid overfilling a conduit so that the conductors can dissipate heat, and so you can remove a conductor without damaging it. See NEC 300.17.
There are only 9 single pole circuits (so 18 conductors?)
Ground conductors count for equipment fill, so you have more than 18 -- maybe 23?
Ironically, when you get close to a fill limit, ...
1
You should be able to see onto the board where the rest of the wires connect and find the "C" terminal. It likely already has something connected going to one of the many wire nuts (and yeah, that is pretty sloppy).
You can test for sure using a multimeter. Set it to measure AC voltage, and then between the Rc (or Rh) and C wire you will see around 24VAC.
...
0
Your voltage is perfect. I work for the local power company and we set our line regulators at 125v nominal with 130 being on the high side and 118 on the low end.
Without being there, it's hard to tell. Sometimes even being there, gremlins like this can be hard to track down.
Some things to look for. Do you ever notice your incandescent lights getting ...
1
If it were me, I would leave it alone. First, assuming that you don't have a disconnect outside of your house, (since you only have 3 wires coming in, I'm sure you don't) you will have to schedule a disconnect with the power company so that you can have access to your meter socket with it De-energized. You could then pull the wires coming from your meter ...
2
It would amount to a pretty poor installation. Box walls are not very rigid, it doesn't take much force to make it flex. You are essentially cantilevering a mass of hardware off a flimsy piece of sheet metal. No fan is perfectly balanced, they all have at least a slight wobble. With a solid base, this would usually be invisible. A flimsy installation could ...
3
Though the NEC does not specifically state that you must use pigtails, it does say that you cannot rely on a device to provide continuity for a neutral. By using both terminals on an outlet, you are relying on the device to provide that continuity. The way around it is to simply use pigtails.
NEC 300.13 (B)
"Device Removal. In multiwire branch ...
2
You could install a structured wiring box over top. This has the benefit that all your gear can be contained inside. They come in various sizes, and often has have a ton of (pricey) modular components to choose from, though you can also just use standard switches and other gear.
You'd have to choose one with or add a hole to the back for the wiring to ...
1
Install a normally open switch that closes when the door no longer presses on it as it starts to open. If you want to avoid the NEC hassle use a 12 VAC system.
2
There are some very sophisticated kits that actually use a motion sensor on the slider. These are very very expensive and if you have a problem down the road you are taking out a bunch of drywall. You can go this route.
However a pantry and utility room are closed off smaller spaces. I would just put an occupancy sensor near the door in each room. This ...
7
OK, this is kind of a rambling question with a lot of details, but let me give you some leads on some of them:
Wall Plate
If you want to install a wall plate, you'll want to clean up the opening and then install a "low voltage mounting bracket", which is a square piece of plastic that frames the opening and provides a place to attach the plate:
(Wall ...
3
Of course it is impossible to tell for sure without looking at the circuit in more detail but it looks like a 120V AC to low voltage DC power supply.
A way to troubleshoot it would be the following:
look up the voltage rating on the lights. Using a multimeter, check if this voltage is present at the output of the board. If it is, the problem is with the ...
6
Workmanlike manner is a really subjective term. It is a catch all for neat, orderly and following the rules. A lot of inspectors fail an inspection using that term when actually specific violations are numerous. Common items such as not securing wires close enough to plastic boxes, crossbeaming, sagging cable, holes drilled too close to the edge of joists, ...
6
They look like a type of push-in connector. If so they are in place of twist-on wire connectors and are not "just for protection", they are connecting the wires in a safe way.
4
I think you'll have to get one of these vapor barrier boxes, and fit it before installing your electrical box.
Seal up where the cable penetrates, then install your electrical box.
The other options would be to cut a larger hole and patch drywall, or seal it up from the back side (but that would require access to the other side of the wall/ceiling).
3
Yes, just replace the wires. Even if you reverse the connections, the light will work. For safety's sake, make every effort to connect the wires properly. The silver screw should be connected to the neutral house wiring, white in US and Canada and blue or black nearly everywhere else. Try to confirm the silver screw connects to the outer metal sheath of the ...
0
First off you do not want to hang the light by the socket that you purchased. With the poke in holes for the wires this is NOT an acceptable mounting system for your lamp - heavy glass or not.
Next note that the wire used to hang lamps is a special type that has strengthing cord built into the cable.
The conventional hanging lamp fixture has a two piece ...
1
Depending on what kind of place you live in, the main disconnect may be someplace else. For example, a condo I lived in did not have a main disconnect in each unit, but each unit had a meter and main disconnect in the ground floor electrical room.
2
Does it happen to be marked with TR (Tamper Resistant)? I find these outlets are more difficult to insert/remove plugs from. That being said, it should not take significant amounts of force to use.
Is it just a specific hair dryer that is difficult to remove? If so you should inspect the prongs for damage. If it is all plugs then the outlet is the ...
1
Doesn't look good.
National Electrical Code 2011
ARTICLE 300 Wiring Methods
300.3 Conductors.
(B) Conductors of the Same Circuit. All conductors of the same circuit and, where used, the grounded conductor and all equipment
grounding conductors and bonding conductors shall be contained within
the same raceway, auxiliary gutter, cable tray, ...
1
Yes it is accepted and code. The GFCI will only protect what is downstream though.
Also as picture shows you must connect duplex to load for it to be protected. The load will be labeled on the receptacle.
2
You almost certainly already have a main disconnect. Code requires it be very close to where the wires come to your house. Look by the meter. If you don't have one, adding one is a job for an expert -- stop reading now. :-)
That said, you can add an additional main disconnect to the main panel, if you think that will be more convenient.
Know your limits. ...
1
Settled on going through the trouble of carrying the bevel around the outlet. It's not what I would have done if I had the foresight to move and rewire the boxes, but it's the best option with what I have now.
It should look better with a coat or two of paint. ;)
Thanks for the input guys!
Top 50 recent answers are included
