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17

I'm sorry, but from the tone of your question, and the fact that you even suggest plugging this motor into a regular 15A receptacle tells me you are so far over your head your only valid option is to hire a pro to wire this. This is NOT a simple DIY job and you cannot simply ask questions to get every little detail out of an internet message board to do this ...


6

The NEC simply states "where supplied through a ground-fault circuit interrupter" in this instance, so you can achieve this either by a GFI receptacle, a faceless GFI device, or a GFI breaker. You cannot however use an AFCI breaker, unless it is one of the new (and rare) AFCI/GFCI breakers. Good luck finding one though. I find one Siemens on Amazon and ...


5

You need, at minimum, an interlock. That is a device which physically prevents the generator input and the main supply breaker from being on at the same time. Both can be off, but only one can be on. This is important for electrical line-worker safety. If you buy or feel the need of an autostart generator, you will need to move loads to a sub-panel and have ...


4

The new 30A panel needs a 4-wire feeder from the 60A panel. This is two hots, a neutral and an equipment ground. The remote 30A panel also needs a grounding electrode (or two) since it is in a detached structure. This grounding electrode has NOTHING to do with the equipment ground run with the feeders. The two serve very different purposes. In the ...


4

I assume you are in the USA. The heater is probably a pure 240V load with no need for the neutral (white) wire. you should simply cap the white wire with a wire nut and tuck it back into the electrical box.


4

My understanding is that I need a 1 phase(household) to three phase converter to do this. Yes. Usually these are used if you need to control the speed, torque, or another aspect of the motor. If you just need a constant 1750 RPM with a max 1HP, then you can purchase a single phase AC motor that doesn't require a converter. If you need to control the ...


3

If this receptacle you are referring to is serving the kitchen counter you CANNOT use that to feed a disposal. Kitchen counter circuits cannot be used to feed fixed appliances. You will need to run a new feed to the disposal, preferably a dedicated circuit from the panel.


3

The GFCI for the circuit might be in a bathroom. Check the GFCI's in the house as one might be feeding the kitchen (which should be on GFCI)


3

Calculating the total wattage using Ohm's law is quite simple. Watts = Volts (V or E) * Current (A or I) Therefore Watts = 240 Volts * 20 Amperes = 4800 Watts However, if you live in the US (and possibly Canada has similar rules) and follow National Electrical Code, you're not quite done yet. 424.3(B) says that fixed electric space-heating equipment ...


3

If you are running 4-wire from the 60A to the 30A, and the 60A is connected correctly, you already have "a neutral return to the service entrance" in the form of the neutral wire feeding the 60 A box. The ground and neutral bars at both sub-panels should be separate (with the Neutral isolated from the box), and the Neutral wire should be connected to the ...


3

After writing this long answer, here's a YouTube video. I'm not a professional, but I had to do a ton of research for a similar situation at my home, and here's some information that I hope will be helpful. First, it would be easier to break your question into parts, for clarity. I may be misunderstanding your question though. Q1: I don't have ...


2

I'm going to volunteer that yes, there is much more it than knowing AutoCAD.


2

Without cutting drywall, you're going to need to buy a surface mount conduit. This is a rectangular metal tube through which you can run wires. Find an outlet into which you can tap the feed. Remove the outlet (power off! Wires Marked!) and mount a surface box extender. Re-mount the outlet on the extender, and tap your new wire into the feed in the box. ...


2

Yes, it is safe. NO, it is not what you should do. The proper fix for this is to find out why the GFI is tripping. It is doing it's job and you need to find out why.


2

It looks a bit of an unusual setup, but I'll hazard a guess that there is either a further light on the circuit either fed from one of the switches or the power from the circuit is fed in at a switch and feeds on from here to another light (or lights). (Obviously, you need to verify this, as we can't tell how it's wired from just one photograph). From left ...


2

If the last light goes out when the second to last is removed, the wiring error may be: Where electricity travels through the second to last bulb, on it's way to the last bulb. If so the last two bulbs may also have been dimmer than normal (if they are incandescent). The bulb type matters here: using CFL or LED lights during testing can add to the ...


2

Your panel is a 12/24, so every space can have a tandem or even quad breaker. That's what 12 space, 24 circuit means. In the panel schedule you may even see a line or dotted line through the middle of each breaker space. A single 20A breaker can certainly have all that on it, but the question is should it? It all depends on what you will be running ...


1

As long as the existing cable has a grounding conductor what you propose is absolutely fine, although you must replace the breaker with the proper two-pole 20A breaker. Although not required I would definitely place a label on the wire in the panel stating it is to be used for a 20A circuit maximum. I would place the 10/3 in a box and branch off with two ...


1

There are ceiling pull-chain switches sometimes used in the UK for bathroom lights, for historical reasons. I don't know how available they would be in the US. Since you're just switching a lamp, you could get a metal blank switchplate, drill a hole in it, and install a lamp- or fan-type pull-chain switch in the wall box.


1

If the dimmer itself is buzzing my suggestion is to replace the dimmer. I would only use a high quality dimmer like Lutron, Cooper, or a higher end Leviton. Also don't get a rotary dimmer. Many cheap rotary dimmers are low quality with little filtering.


1

OK, first of all, plainly this is a mess. The fact that there is a white wire hooked up to a black wire without any recolouring of it alone says that (1) there's some amateurish stuff going on here, and (2) you cannot trust any of the white wires to actually be neutral until you prove that they are. So proceed cautiously, and take notes as you go. There ...


1

No. The bare copper wire is the grounding conductor, and it should be connected to the circuits grounding conductor. If there is no grounded "neutral" conductor coming from the cooktop, you should cap the white wire off. The grounded "neutral" conductor is only used for 120 Volt or 120/240 Volt circuits, and is not required for straight 240 Volt circuits ...


1

Start troubleshooting with any recent fixture, switch, or outlet work on that circuit. Then trace the problem circuit from the main box outward removing every junction faceplate and inspecting. Jiggle and twist connections while looking for issues. It may be resolved just by a few turns here and there.



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