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19

Yes, there is a risk. Even a properly installed and protected electrical system can fail to protect you, either because of unforeseen situations or component failure. There are two types of flaps. One is watertight only when not in use and closed. This is probably what you have. This type of outlet is only meant to be used temporarily when exposure to ...


6

3M Scotchlok's would work for this application. They too would require a trip to a store, but the nice part is you don't need to strip the wire as they are self-piercing. They can connect two or three wires, and are filled with a sealant to provide moisture resistance. They are typically used for Telco wiring, but support wire gauge from 26-19AWG.


4

The breaker on the bottom right (with the green tab on it) looks tripped. They will move to center position without doing much else. Turn it all the way off and then all the way back on. If that does not work: turn ALL your breakers all the way off and then all the way on to make sure all are reset. Then look for gfci receptacles and make sure to reset all ...


4

The heat with such a miniscule load is not really an issue. I wouldn't worry so much about the temperature as I would about using NM cable to wire pumps (I assume circulators?), and securing them to water pipes (which is not allowed). A much more professional job would have been to use MC cable and secure them to the boiler housing or simply tie wrapping ...


4

And here is why you check it before hand, even though you have turned off that room. People get into Junction boxes and re-wire - joining two separate circuits into one - in that case one circuit in the house can be fed from two breakers (as long as they are on the same phase). Always check with testor - and NOT JUST a proximity induction testor - but an ...


4

There are box extenders which can be screwed onto the existing box. They can be screwed directly on top of the old box. Just do a search for "electrical box extenders" and you will find plenty.


4

I think @bib's suggestion of a crimp connector is the best way to go. If it was a 120V line outside, you should use a heat shrink crimp connector, but for low voltage this is optional (but still a good idea to prevent corrosion). The only other alternative I can think of that I'd consider is soldering the wires together, and sealing the connection in a ...


3

Consider crimp connectors While these are best used with a crimping tool, they can be set using a conventional or needlenose plier. Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


2

As long as you have the right configuration of conductors yes, you can use a wire bigger than necessary. Be sure to change the circuit breaker to match the circuit and receptacle required. Remember, you CANNOT have a "standard" 15 or 20 amp receptacle on a 30A breaker.


2

Given that the gas range only uses electric for clock and ignition you will be fine (given 20A circuit). Being fine and passing inspection are two different things though. However the real question is what the oven and disposal require and the size of the circuit. In the manual for oven and disposal there should be information about circuit requirements. ...


1

I am partial to Arlington BE box extenders for such applications. The 1-gang version is the BE-1. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00303FYHS/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000GAQE9A&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0XH4QSEWDXPFGKCN0ZEJ


1

As long as the wire is sound and is joined old and new properly, i.e., not just twisted together but secured with a twist lock or crimp connector it meets code and is fine. Consider that the hot and neutral is already joined there so the ground connection does not degrade that circuit and is quite proper. That said - anytime you can replace old wiring with ...


1

You say "that room". Circuits are not nearly always designated to one room or area. Many, many times a room will have some devices on one circuit while others on another circuit. It is pretty rare that rooms are strictly wired so that one circuit distinctly feeds one room. Also, panel directories are not always extremely accurate. So something that says the ...


1

If you take the running watts that should be enough. The starting watts should be taken into account by the 8250 number. This is assuming every connected load will not be starting at the exact same time.


1

Yes. Once you shut off the room fuse, no electricity will be going to that room. However it is important to test all connections before working on them so you are positive that they are not powered.


1

What you have is NOT legal and really should be corrected. You CANNOT have general use lighting and receptacles on 30A circuits, even with #10 wire. You also do need a means of disconnect at a detached structure. You can use this feed to power a 30A-120/240V sub-panel using a tied two-pole 30A breaker in the main panel. This is only true if there are two ...


1

I can not help you with that particular tool. But a word of advice. Sometimes I have to put down my induction testor, or magnetic resonance testor and grab the radio. plug in radio to outlet in that room and turn on high. Turn off all breakers. turn them back on one at a time, listen. Do not stop if you hear the radio. Go through all the breakers. You ...


1

Be careful,if the circuit had #10 wire it may have a 30 amp breaker. The wire size must be rated for the breaker. You cannot use 14 ga or 12 ga wire on a circuit equipped with a 30 amp breaker.


1

This is assumes we're talking a screw in bulb socket like a medium base A26. You can adapt the below for other socket types. The first thing to do is test the socket itself. Best way to do this is to use a multi-meter set to AC and an appropriate voltage setting for your supply voltage. Using the test leads, touch the bottom pin and the metal of the base ...


1

The breaker on right side (Second to bottom) is tripped. I am not sure if the green is a sticker on it or a little notification window, but regardless, take note on how it is in the center position. This means that it has tripped. If you try to slide it to the left, it will just pop back to the center again. To reset the breaker, slide it to the right ...


1

Replace the wall sockets if at all possible. Until then, here's what I do. (I should mention I'm in the USA.) On the plug, either bend the prongs in/out, or apply some torque to them to make them slant. Either approach will help the prongs make stronger contact with the sockets. Try a little bending at first, then more until you're happy with the ...


1

The way we installed them incredibly clean was the have the blinds mounted on the wall above the window alcove (not inside the cove as you did). The outlet is generally in line with where the blinds are and their "closed" state leaves them open enough to cover the outlets.


1

In the end, the best way to solve this was to request replacement Somfy motors with longer cords. The factory can supply them at any length, and they arrived within a week. I have now had them installed and there was no junction box needed, since there is no join in the cable behind the wall. There is now no visible cable whatsoever. I hope this is helpful ...


1

That's not the problem. The zone valve is not working. Zone valves stick either in the open or closed positions when they go bad. In your case bc heat won't go off its stuck in the open position. Need to replace zone valve



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