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I just finished mounting my tv with 16" spacing between studs on center. I cut open the wall and installed 2 - 2x6 blocking (broad face facing out and 1 above the other) with pocket screws in between the studs and then screwed a piece of 3/4" plywood on top of the blocking and closed the wall back up. My tv mount is screwed into the two studs and the ...


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You will NOT want to support your 78 1/2 inch rod from the drywall alone. Drywall fastened up to the ceiling is a pretty good challenge just holding up it's own weight then yet you trying to add 70 pounds to that. So what you want to do is to locate the support members (usually called ceiling joists) to which the drywall is attached. You would then want to ...


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Personally I think you would be far better off mounting a sheet of good quality 3/4" plywood between the studs. Size the plywood so it a bit larger than the TV mount plus the extra amount so that it extends to the studs on each side. This will provide a far superior mount than that thin steel strap iron that you are proposing. The plywood is also easy to ...


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Sounds like a true DIY project.1/8 inch thick flat steel stock should be adequate. Am I seeing this e: one length of steel above the other (spaced accordingly), attached to the wall framing with HD screws through holes in each piece of steel? As long as the wall framing is sound and secured properly, I'm confident it will easily support the 60" and it's ...


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Fill a plant sprayer with hot water and dishwashing detergent and spray the wallpaper several times and let is soak for 30 minutes. Once the mixture has been incorporated well use a filling knife to remove the wall paper. Repeat this process for wall paper pieces that stubbornly stick to the wall several times in order to remove it. Note: this ...


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This is not a DIY job. Mold can spread everywhere in a wood-framed house full of drywall. Call in the pros to estimate the source and extent of the infection. Simply killing the mold won't help if you don't find the moisture source that made it moldy in the first place. PSA to the world: stop building houses out of wood and drywall. Sheesh, what awful ...


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The second photo is termite damage as Jon has pointed out. They are eating the paper off the back side of the drywall. They also will tunnel through the drywall to get to the paper between the gypsum and paint on the other side.


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The problem, although difficult, can be solved. If the silicone has squeezed out from the drywall joint it needs to be cut. With a utility knife slice away all dried silicone that is above the surface of the drywall. The lower the better. Don't be overly concerned about damaging the drywall panels; don't butcher them, but don't preform surgery either. After ...


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What you need to use is a fastener called a "toggle bolt". They come in small sizes (1/8 inch, screw diameter) up to 1/4 inch. Depending on the weight of your item the larger the toggle the more it can support. A toggle bolt is a threaded machine screw that uses a pair of spring loaded wings (anchors) as a nut. Mark the location for the hole and use a slot ...


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You almost certainly have plaster over "rock lath" which is a sort of early drywall board with holes in it for plaster to key into. Rock lathed plaster was common during that time--used as a time saving alternative to wood lath, but before taped and mudded drywall became popular. The board was 1/2", and the plaster another 1/2" or so. It's a very robust ...


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If I am reading your post correctly you want to raise the ceiling by 600ml's which, if Google is right, that comes out to 23.622In. I don't see that happening without a total rework of the ceiling. You have a better chance of lowering the bed at the bottom, but you are going to lose that space. Take pictures or give us a drawing with dimensions of the room ...


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The answer to this question depends on how the existing ceiling is constructed. Ceilings are often made with dry wall material that is nailed or screwed directly to the bottom of the overhead joists or rafter stringers. In this case there is little to nothing that could be done raise the ceiling without a major reconstruction of the building structure. ...


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Remove an outlet or switch plate and look at what the edges of the wall are. It should be immediately obvious if they're wood paneling or something. Otherwise, it'll be plaster or drywall. Drywall will have straight edges and a chalky core, while plaster is more organic-looking and flowing, and will have wooden supports behind it. Regardless, it's actually ...


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You can purchase mouldings that are made out of foam. They are pre-finished and are extremely light (compared to wood) and are ideal for situations where you need to x-nail. I've used it in a basement remodel where we used steel studs.


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Short answer: Find out what the Head inspector will accept and get it in writing. For exterior gypsum, I use Densglass Gold as a backer for siding in Wildland areas that require fire rating. This only requires 1/2" gypsum but 5/8" is available for higher fire rating. And yes I agree that it should go on the outside of the sheathing - but that is for the ...


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To repair drywall tape that has come loose you will need to remove the tape sections with a utility knife. Next replace the tape you removed by liberally troweling joint compound into and around the incision. Rip a piece of drywall tape from a roll and push it onto the wet compound. At about a 20 degree angle and with gentle pressure , pull your drywall ...


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You can use nonmetallic sheathed cable in basements, as long as you follow a few rules. If you're using 12 AWG cable, and you're installing the cable at angles to the joists. You'll have to pull the cable through bored holes, or along running boards. You cannot staple the cable along the bottom of the joist. When you come down the wall, you'll have to ...


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My expertise is in framing and it is good practice when framing to always put "nailers" in (something to nail the sheetrock or sheathing to). This is usually done by putting a piece on the flat (the larger dimension facing what is going to be nailed to it). I would not recommend using the sheetrock in the wall to support the sheetrock on the ceiling as ...


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Ready for muddy water? If you go by solely by code, 2012 IRC Table R302.1(1) specs out a 1 hour TESTED wall assembly with fire from both sides. As an individual component, IBC Specs out a 40 min rating per layer of 5/8" Type X so to have a 1 hour untested assembly you would need two layers EACH SIDE. The only way to get the 1 hour rating is to use a ...


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There are many excellent insulation products on the market that keep heat, and noise, inside your studio! Don’t forget when insulating the walls and floor of your loft studio to remember windows and the loft hatch too, if you have one. I have read one blog on it, if you want some idea regarding to it you can check these blog, i think it will help you. ...


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Like iLikeDirt mentions these are the corner beads. You can screw directly into these - will just take a little longer to pierce the metal.


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NO this plan has no merit, spraying the borax water solution in a hole would only get some, if any of the mold and you would be guesting anyway. If your house was on fire would you drill holes in the walls and spray water at the holes and hope? The only way to check for mold is to open up the wall and testing spots that look suspicious.(If you really think ...


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The gap you speak of is minimal. Hang your first layer with sheets vertical....then your second layer Horizontal. Drywall is typically hung vertical because it provides a cleaner finished look....but you could hang in either order you choose. Your goal is to stagger your joints to minimize the transmission of cracks. If you are concerned with the gap just ...


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I guess it's too late to consider 5-1/4" trim? Hit the line of old caulk with a long blade utility knife (like an Olfa), a sharp chisel or a wallpaper scraper. Then sand lightly to knock down any other lumps and apply a coat or two of mud. (Premixed if you have time; 20 or 90 minute setting compound if you're in a hurry.) When dry, sand lightly.


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The best answer is to reapply when they need it, but if you're nervous you could pull it up and apply every year or two. In a perfect world, it would last much longer than that. I'd use a putty knife to scrape up that existing silicone so that the new bead gets a nice clean seal. You don't want to just keep adding more silicone on top of what's already ...


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To fix the damage, pry any loose material free, patch with compound, sand, and prime/paint with a paint designed for wet areas (preferably mold/mildew-resistant too). To prevent this from happening again, you'll need to improve ventilation in the area. It's a little hard to tell from these photos, but this looks like a corner within your shower where warm ...


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If the hole is fairly small (say <4" diameter), then you can likely get away with just covering the hole with fiber mesh tape and using a hard setting compound (e.g. Sheetrock 90) to fill the hole. For larger holes Craig has the "best" method, but I've used this method successfully for holes in plaster and drywall up to 3.5" diameter.


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Drywall patches are available at most home improvement stores. I've personally never used one, so I can't say how well they work (if at all). Though for the couple of dollars they cost, it might be worth a try. There are self adhesive patches like this one available at most home improvement stores. Wal-Board Tools 4" x 4" Drywall Repair Patch Again, ...


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Cut some short strips of plywood or even paneling (long enough to overlap both sides of the hole by a couple of inches). Don't cut your fingers off. Put the plywood strip(s) in the hole and position the strip so it is extending out beyond both edges of the hole, behind the sheetrock. Hold the strip tightly by pulling outward on the back of strip with your ...


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You may want the type X 5/8" drywall with the furnace there (may not be required but it won't hurt). When you use a large mudding knife, the 1/16" over a 8-12" span will be difficult to impossible to detect. If you can pull the ceiling moulding without damaging it, I'd do that first. Replace the drywall behind the moulding, mud and tape the entire patch ...


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Why not use standard 1/2" drywall after you shim out the studs. Use 1/4" stock or rip 1 1/2" strips of 1/4" plywood. Tack these to each stud. Then screw the 1/2" drywall through the shims and into the studs. I would probably use 1 5/8" drywall screws for a better grip. By the way, if this is in or near a furnace room, be sure to use fire rated drywall.



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