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2

I would strongly suggest the walls are primed and use a mold inhibitor behind the cabinetry, especially behind the sink cabinet and where the dishwasher will set. Raw drywall should be sealed before anything is installed against it in my opinion.


0

Questions about rental/landlords aside, you could X nail with some construction adhesive and as long as your crown isn't huge (less than 5"), it should stay up fine. If I was doing this, I'd have temporary bracing (1x2s would be fine) while the glue sets, and add plenty of nails wherever the crown looks loose against the wall/ceiling. One last tip you ...


0

Well if you ask me there are two possible approaches: If you insist on mounting shelves onto the wall you can do following: cut part of the dry wall from top to bottom in two places. I’m sure that there is some metal construction inside, and then add vertical elements specially designed for load bearing. Knauf and other call it "AU profile”. They look like ...


5

I'm assuming a flat wall (not textured). Use screws. Make sure they are black drywall screws. Make sure all the screw heads are below the surface of the drywall (Ideally, they should dent the drywall, but not punch through the paper.). Any driver will work, even a hand screwdriver. You don't need three trowel sizes. You can make do with the 6- or ...


10

It's a patch - you don't need a special screwgun, you don't need ANY screwgun. Use screws - nailing drywall is an art form and takes a special hammer. Screwing is easy and takes a Phillips screwdriver. If you use a "not special drywall screwgun" stop before the screws are all the way in and use a screwdriver to finish. The head of the screw should end up ...


2

Top two are orange peel, bottom is knockdown. You can tell that it's knockdown by the presence of the large flat areas (where it was "knocked down" with a trowel).


0

A sawzall with a metal-cutting blade as opposed to a wood or general-purpose one (many small teeth, not few deep sharp ones) will be easy to run along the surface of the studs and cut off the glue with cutting the wood.


0

I would make sure all the screws are out and then run a circular saw up the side of the stud. As long as you hold your line and keep the plate pressed against the side should be able to shave off everything except for a mm or two.


1

I'd doubt that any sort of cover-up will be satisfactory. In fact, a faux finish will likely make the problem more noticeable. I would suggest spreading the plaster out over a much larger area, maybe 3x the size, and sanding and feathering from there with a few passes of progressively finer sandpaper, otherwise your eye will always be drawn to the same spot. ...


0

I don't know that replacing the drywall for that little a space wouldn't be the best route. Seems the cleanest. Removing trim isn't hard. I don't know about the mirrors, though. Renting a drywall jack is cheap and makes it a ton easier to hang. A bit of demo and hanging a new ceiling sounds easier than messing around with something that isn't working ...


0

The attic probably does not matter. The crack is likely caused by the house pulling apart for some reason. If that is the case, then either there is a problem with the foundation or with the structural design of the house. In my experience bad foundations are the root of such problems 9 times out of 10. A lot of developers just plop houses down on sand or ...


1

The purpose of staggered joints, is to provide additional support and rigidity, to the the framing members below - as well as make it easier to keep a uniform surface, over any uneven framing. Your wall should be fine, with all sheets hung vertical, on appropriately spaced furring strips.


-1

Best, well actually only solution is to remove old pain and primer completely. When you finish this then you apply new primer and wall paint. Don’t get into the reasons why blisters appear because it is not relevant.


1

Superglue will not fill the voids well enough between the wall and the wood frame. There are picture hooks with a special adhesive that may work for your purpose. See here, there is a variety on this link


2

You could try running a putty knife or something behind them, but my actual advice for removing them is to have the spackle or drywall compound and paint handy, as scars are to be expected. Hmm - heat (as from a hair dryer - not so much as to scorch paint) might also help loosen the adhesive a bit. As for the left-behind adhesive the usual suspects - ...



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