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The kind or brand of primer does not matter much. Most products perform equally well or equally poor. The biggest payoff is in the prep-work. Even the "best" primer cannot adhere well to a wall that is covered with sanding dust or loose texture. Wipe and vacuum everything. Otherwise your nicely painted work might easily peel off with just the tip of ...


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No one in a country with a winter season should use mesh tape EVER! If you are going over steel studded walls you may use a mesh tape for flats and butts only due to the limited movement in the metal but is still not recommended. Paper all the way. If you insist on using mesh tape, you must use quick set compounds for your first coat. This will give the ...


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I had the exact same problem at the beginning of this year, except I was hanging mine in the hallway. I plastered the snot out of the board with painters tape and put a few command strips on the edges, it held :D that may work for you, plus it leaves no marks and handles high traffic (I have VERY immature friends and they used it a lot) Hopefully your story ...


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Attempting to put caulking to the wall under the base board with the carpet installed is very likely going to result in caulking spread out onto the carpet - also if you ever have to pull it temporarily - the parts embedded into the caulk will separate from the rest of the carpet. Unfortunately, placing the caulking under the baseboard with the carpet ...


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You will need to get in the attic if you have access to it and remove as much of the insulation above the area as you can with an insulation removing vacuum or shop vac. Then do your repair and replace the blown insulation back in place. Removing the dry wall without doing this will end up with a big mess.


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You will need a specialty insulation blower and not the one you find at home depot or lowes. You would drill holes at the top of the cavity and blow in your insulation being careful not to overfill and blow the dry wall out. The process is slow and time consuming but can save you a lot of money especially if your walls are not insulated.


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Cellulose insulation would be a great choice if you have living quarters above. The cellulose insulation is more dense and will help control air movement and drafts. Cellulose Insulation


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There are huge differences. I am sure a professional tradesman can go over the exacts but here is my common man take(even though I have drywalled too many houses to remember): plaster generally sets quicker plaster is thicker plaster can be applied thicker (joint compound you get about 1/8") plaster to me is like working with thinset except you will see ...


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This sounds like a good candidate for the procedure you outline, done with loose fill cellulose insulation, with two caveats. First of all, while this could conceivably be a DIY project, you can't rent a typical cellulose blower from Home Depot or the like because it doesn't have the power to really densely pack the stuff in there; as a result, the material ...


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There are merits to both. For structural support (yes, drywall adds some shear support) you want fewer joints and drywall crossing as many studs as possible. This has the side benefit of reducing the amount of taping needed and may use less mud. For visual appeal, tapered joints are easier to completely hide with mud. Rather than spreading out the mud over ...


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Well, you could form the skirting directly out of plaster, but that would only fulfill the "appearance" and not the "function" (such as it is) of the skirting board. And for most of us that would be more "messy" than "elegant", though the real plaster pros can do very elegant things in the high side of the wall for moldings that won't see the abuse a ...


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I'd suggest either using an anchor as suggested above, or possibly buying a rack that you can screw right into any studs, which clearly you'd have to find.


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As someone who has had their health severely compromised by mold exposure, I can give you a piece of sound advice: MOVE. NOW. From speaking with numerous industrial hygienists, I have come to learn that neither KILLZ nor bleach effectively remove mold. Walls and ceilings most likely need to be removed in a negative pressure environment. Regular ...


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If you are renting you should call the local health department for more information about a second opinion. Small quantities of mold can be remediated with something like kilz. But the source of the mold generation must be removed also. Testing a mold sample is the only way to identify the specific type of mold.


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It depends. It depends on the type of mold. It depends on the severity of the infestation. It depends on how many treatments they applied. Bleach is not sufficient or approved for mold remediation. You may need to use something like MoldStat and even then you may need to take additional steps. If the infestation was bad enough you probably could replace ...


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Normally you would get something like the picture below to cover the side of the tile. But it generally has to be installed under tile. (you could still try it out and mud/caulk on the flat end but I don't see it lasting long looking good in a damp area) Now you will have to go with some kind of bullnose or trim piece, much like you would trim out a ...


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The proper installation of intumescent paint to create a fire barrier is not a do it yourself project. though in theory an intumescent paint might work, in practice, magic-in-a-can tends to be impractical in anything but a corner case in commercial contexts and adding additional layers of gypsum board is inevitably the preferred solution based on cost, ...


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I had a similar situation where the backer board extended a few inches past my planned tiling edge in my shower. After I had finished with the tile, I taped the joint and applied joint compound over the backer board and it seems great. It's been three years and there is no cracking or any problem with it. That's not exactly an answer but I hope it helps you ...


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If this is a code requirement that the city is demanding of you, see if they'll accept a layer of gypsum veneer plaster over the top of the 1/2" drywall. The National Gypsum association gives such an assembly a 1 hour fire rating if you use their special fire-resistive backer-board: http://www.nationalgypsum.com/File/goldd.pdf Normal drywall might be less ...


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5/8" drywall is only required nowadays if it's still actually garage and there's living space above it. But it sounds like it's not a garage anymore, and if there's no living space above it, then you doubly don't need 5/8" drywall. Regardless, you shouldn't have to pass a drywall inspection unless you're already altering the drywall there in which case. ...


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Either way is good, paper or tape. I finished my basement and garage and have done a lot of drywall in the past. I use paper in the corners mostly for sure, and mesh/fiberglass tape or paper tape over the flat spots and metal corners. I used normal joint mud (All Purpose) with the mesh tape and some joints have cracked, but only a few. Those had to be ...



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