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I want to know if a layer of sandy brownstone type finish can be layered right on top of textured plaster inside ?


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Buy a bucket of sheet rock mud, a roll of tape, and a taping spatula. Fill the cracks with mud after temperatures warm up a bit, and roll the tape over the mud. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhMqYJNUgkU Once it's really dry, like wait a week until it's chalky white, then lightly sand with a taping sponge, then you'll have to repaint it. If you don't have ...


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Wall studs should be every 16". If you measure from the start of the wall where the pipes are, you should be able to hit a stud every 16" behind the backing board. I'm not sure what the pipes are that you have in your kitchen - venting maybe, but I would look for shelves that would be supported via studs through the backing board wall instead of trying to ...


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Sounds like you pulled out some butterfly anchors instead of unscrewing them, or even large molly type. What I do in situations like this is to install a decorative BOARD behind the towel rack or toilet paper holder, on the surface of the drywall, which screws directly into studs. This can simply be a piece of 1X4 with routed or finished edges, or ...


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You're approaching this backwards. If there is any mitigation that you would need to do, the inspector would have to approve it. You should therefore ask your inspector this question; he/she will be happy to tell you.


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The fly is a crane fly and has nothing to do with eating your drywall. http://www.cirrusimage.com/flies_crane.htm


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From the picture it seems that the walls were done and the ceiling last and trying to meet the walls. Normally (if done right) the drywall on the ceiling would rest on the drywall from your walls. In this case even if you had a lot of contraction throughout the year you would have a very minor crack at most (which could be fixed with plaster or even ...


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The reason why this is happening is the structural members are expanding and contracting with the temperature/humidity changes. There is no good solution to fix the issues, but you can cover it up. The quick and dirty solution would be to put up quarter round over the seams, and attach it to the studs only- That is not to the ceiling. This would allow for ...


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Don't put plaster on OSB. Put plaster on plasterboard aka blueboard. OSB is very moisture sensitive. Your plan will eventually result in rotten, swelled OSB with plaster falling off of it, especially if the building won't be heated.


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While there are solutions to overflowing tubs or washers and dryers, they all need to be fashioned upward, and you are downward of the leaking fixture. Some locales now require a flood pan to be placed under washers and dryers, and a bathroom could be constructed with a flood pan under all fixtures. It is basically a waterproof surface that rises up at the ...


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The better solution is to fix your neighbor's overflow drain so it doesn't happen again. I can't imagine that any of these solutions isn't going to result in a mold problem if they're allowed to get very wet in an already damp environment and then not be removed and replaced.


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I've used both with good results but it largely depends on the application. Long straight joints, in the middle where drywall bevel edges meet is fine for mesh because usually more mud applied due to the bevel. A tip I've used to over 30 years with excellent results...mud the joint and soak the length of paper in water before applying it. The wetted paper ...


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A lot of moisture comes out of drywall mud after it is applied. I strongly recommend that you rent commercial dehumidifiers to dry the air out as soon as possible. (This is exactly what I did when I built a house and the drywall was installed/mudded in winter - even driving out to the house in the middle of a snowstorm to empty the reservoirs.)


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Typically, when butting corner-bead you should, first, cut about a 2" to 3" piece of bead and place it under the butt joint. That way your two pieces will butt together neatly and will be smooth when you mud over them. If your run is longer than 10', you'll need to do this (most bead is 8', but 10' is also available).


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To a certain extent, moisture is unavoidable during construction. However, this is why you don't build in winter, especially in your climate, because the surface temperatures of many smooth materials (your windows, tile, plaster) are going to fall below the dew point, especially if the heating system hasn't been installed yet. When that happens, any moist ...


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It looks to me like the cracks are appearing on the board joins. Some possible causes there are: Something went wrong with the drywall tape, or there was no tape used at all? You may want to scratch around and try to find some of the tape? I think i can actually see a bubble seam on the wall, indicating that your tape is pushing out. I would say they ...


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Mistake #1. Never use mesh tape with pre mixed joint compound. Mesh tape is for setting type (powder mix) compound. Also never use paper tape with setting type compound. Mistake #2. Bubble problem. Always make sure that you have a BLEED OUT when you set the paper tape. Bleed out = when you're pushing the tape into the compound make sure you see excess ...


3

It depends on the type of anchor and the length of the screw, but I think you may have another problem. Most drywall anchors rely on the screw to expand the anchor and secure it into the drywall. In these cases, if the screw is not into the anchor to an adequate depth, the anchor will not have sufficient purchase in the sheetrock. With this said, however, ...


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I've done this on one room- taking a knock-down texture and skim coating it to make it smooth. The downside is that you then are able to see every wave, bump, and bobble that the drywall installers didn't bother fixing because they knew it would be hidden by texture. ;) I was able to get by with one coat and one sanding, but I was also applying a ...


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Here in Arizona many older homes are built of cinder block, often just painted inside and out, no framing, no drywall, no insulation. This comes from an era when running a swamp cooler in the summer was cheap, and a gas furnace or electric heat in the brief winters was also cheap. Some of the older homes were PANELED on the inside, probably not a great idea ...


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If the drywall was hung on top of plywood with nails or screws there's a decent chance those won't align with the studs, which is why your magnetic studfinder could lead you astray. The plywood has to be anchored to studs, and those should be 16" on-center. So you only have to find one as a reference point. As an alternative to opening enough of the wall ...


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Yes, you can paint plasterboard directly - it's usually just paper on the outside. (Moisture resisting plasterboard tends to have a foil on on side though, which probably won't take paint well). What paint you use will depend what finish (or colours) you want, but you're unlikely to have problems using either emulsion or undercoat and gloss (or matt or ...


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In North America, studs are usually installed 16" on centre, regardless of whether wood or metal studs are used. (Commercial interior walls may have different spacing.) If you can't find the stud with your stud finder, look for a plug or switch on the wall - they will be attached to one side of the stud and then start from there. Just use normal ...


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My dad always mixed in some plaster of Paris with regular old blue top mud. Dried harder, less shrinkage, stronger seams, less cracking. Add water to plaster until it turns grey then mix it in with mud.


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Forget the spackling. Fiber joint tape should never be used in a corner - use Paper Joint Tape instead. It has a seam down the middle, so you can fold it into the corner. Scrape out the old joint tape, removing any loose compound along the way. Ensure both surfaces are securely attached, to their framing members. Sand any high spots if needed and apply ...


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That crack is most likely directly inline with a seam between two sections of the underlying drywall. Environmental effects or settling of the building structure over years can lead to cracks like this opening up. Probably the best fix for this is to sand to roughen up the area for six to eight inches or so on either side of the crack. Then apply some good ...


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I've used it but, given a choice, I'll always opt for paper. I've seen mesh "shift" right where the seam is. It doesn't seem to be as strong as a tape joint when it comes to keeping pieces of sheetrock from shifting.


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This wall to ceiling joint appears to be due to stress on the joint caused by a combination of wall board movement due to environmental changes and a lack of sufficient drywall mud installed over the fiber joint tape in the first place. I suggest that the best fix for this it to actually attach a new layer of the fiber joint tape all along the joint and ...



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