Hot answers tagged drywall
It's a patch - you don't need a special screwgun, you don't need ANY screwgun. Use screws - nailing drywall is an art form and takes a special hammer. Screwing is easy and takes a Phillips screwdriver. If you use a "not special drywall screwgun" stop before the screws are all the way in and use a screwdriver to finish. The head of the screw should end up ...
I am a general contractor and I'm having a house redone right now after the electrician and plumber roughed in. I tape off the plumbing and stuff newspaper in the electric boxes and light fixture boxes. When the mudding is done and they do the finish, I'll go around and remove the newspaper and clean up the boxes. This takes about an hour total time and ...
I'm assuming a flat wall (not textured). Use screws. Make sure they are black drywall screws. Make sure all the screw heads are below the surface of the drywall (Ideally, they should dent the drywall, but not punch through the paper.). Any driver will work, even a hand screwdriver. You don't need three trowel sizes. You can make do with the 6- or ...
You could try running a putty knife or something behind them, but my actual advice for removing them is to have the spackle or drywall compound and paint handy, as scars are to be expected. Hmm - heat (as from a hair dryer - not so much as to scorch paint) might also help loosen the adhesive a bit. As for the left-behind adhesive the usual suspects - ...
Top two are orange peel, bottom is knockdown. You can tell that it's knockdown by the presence of the large flat areas (where it was "knocked down" with a trowel).
I'd doubt that any sort of cover-up will be satisfactory. In fact, a faux finish will likely make the problem more noticeable. I would suggest spreading the plaster out over a much larger area, maybe 3x the size, and sanding and feathering from there with a few passes of progressively finer sandpaper, otherwise your eye will always be drawn to the same spot. ...
The purpose of staggered joints, is to provide additional support and rigidity, to the the framing members below - as well as make it easier to keep a uniform surface, over any uneven framing. Your wall should be fine, with all sheets hung vertical, on appropriately spaced furring strips.
Superglue will not fill the voids well enough between the wall and the wood frame. There are picture hooks with a special adhesive that may work for your purpose. See here, there is a variety on this link
Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible