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10

"Why is this happening?" The drywall mud was applied too thick "what should I do about it?" Either apply additional thin coats (sanding between each), or scrape it down and start over, this time using several thinner applications and sanding between each


3

Various products are available specifically for leveling a device in an oversized opening, such as this bracket. Selection at big box stores may be limited, go to an electrical supply house if you can't find similar.


3

Drywall compound shrinks as it dries, so if applied thick or if it has too much water it will crack. A few cracks on the first coat are ok since later coats will fill the cracks. From the image it appears the first coat here is much thicker than needed. Excess mud on any layer will just mean more work and more sanding later. Ideally the first coat should ...


3

A perfect drywall job isn't an option, as you're not allowed to cover junction boxes or otherwise render them inaccessible. In the case of those switches which share a box with switches for other lights, you can find partial blank plates. However, these won't accomplish your goal of cleaning up the walls. In all cases you can nut the broken circuit legs ...


3

What you used originally is what it used every day by professionals, handymen and DIYers alike. A drywall gun with fine thread drywall screws. For heavier studs drill-point drywall screws can be used. If what you did works for you then keep at it. It's just a lot slower than a drywall gun. So if this is just for you and small projects there is nothing wrong ...


3

The only real answer can be "as long as it takes". There are so many variables that affect how easily the water will evaporate that you can't predict. Could be hours in some situations, could be months in others. You need to figure out how to measure how much water is left. You might consider buying a moisture content meter; there are ones with pins that ...


2

Typically you attach the curtain hardware into the stud framing around the window, the only reason to add any extra wood to mount the brackets is if you need to move the bracket out from the wall to get clear of any window trim, or if the hardware must be installed somewhere that doesn't have any studs behind it and you use the wood piece to span the space ...


2

It sounds like you may have metal studs. That would explain the difficulty drilling through, followed by the void beyond.


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You can use spacer shims, they're available at most electrical supply, hardware, and big box stores. They're also available from various manufacturers.


1

I'd go ahead and paint it as-is, just as I'd paint my living room after a year, or ten, without any special prep. Kitchens with evidence of grease should probably be cleaned locally. I've never had paint fall off yet after dozens of personal and professional projects over several decades. Modern paints are very good.


1

I generally agree with Ed Beal regarding lumber quality. My personal standards wouldn't allow use of such lumber. Regarding your question... For field studs, as little as half an inch should be fine. Much smaller than that and the sheet will begin to deform around the sharpened edge of the lumber when the screws are set, causing waves in the wall and ...


1

Even if you use a remote, you should keep the switches. Most remote control fan/light combos allow you to turn on the light by flicking the switch off then back on. Think about it from the perspective of a guest or a paramedic: you walk through a door and expect a wall switch to be right there, and flip it once or more times to get the light to come on. And ...


1

Inventing a lighting control system only you and family know how to control would frustrate intruders, but it would also frustrate first responders. And guests. To me, it violates a basic tenet of architectural design, which is that a home and its features should feel comfortable and accessible. Lighting is part of what makes a space habitable. You know ...


1

I've found it to be easier to just tear out the plaster and drywall it. It's a lot more work but in my run-ins with plaster in old structures it was always a pain. I would drywall it; it will save you hassle in the future.



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