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4

I would say you have too much compound. You should be able to press very firmly and pretty much squeeze out the excess compound. The thin layer that remains will provide good adherence of the tape. You want the compound to fully coat the back of the tape, but no more.


3

I have watched my drywall guys and have a much lengthier adaptation to what they do. Note: Your drywall mud should have the consistency of a very oily peanut butter. The premixed stuff in buckets at big box is too thick. Add a little water and a couple of drops of Dawn to it. If it is too dry you may find more air pockets and your tape not binding well ...


3

You don't fill in the gap between drywall in brick. Caulk, mud, plaster, whatever will not keep this area from having problems. I have done tons of drywall to brick and there is simply a small gap there. Anything else doesn't look right. I have also seen small t-molding placed there and it looks... OK but not right. I have seen caulk and it just ...


2

Imperfections are hard to see on a white wall. I learned that adding some tint to primer makes the imperfections obvious BEFORE you paint the whole wall, so they can be patched before finish painting. I add a little of the same paint I am going to use to the primer.


2

It's probably double 5/8ths drywall, I'd use toggle bolts. And then washers and 3" deck screws to the stud for safety (not drywall screws), even if you're going to do all four corners with toggle bolts. There should be some one-by inside the cabinet at the top (and possibly the bottom) this is where you want your fasteners penetrating, not just through the ...


2

No easy way. The half wall is going to be built like a wall, with studs and a top and bottom plate. You'll have to rip it out, and install a banister in its place.


2

You didnt have to use a mop, for next time all you have to do is take a broom to it and sweep the dust off, put some primer on, wait for it to dry and then take a pole sander to it, and dust clumps left on the wall is forever gone.


2

Just a caulk might not fix your problem....Crack might appear next winter. You should use tape specially designed for dry wall joints it looks like this: After that you can paint the wall. Of course, you use this tape with caulk like products, specially for this purpose (knauf-fugenfuller etc.)


1

You indicate that you have been in a drought since October. Combine cooler weather, better insulated roof, and heat being on; the structural framing of the house may have shrunk. I experience some "seasonal" cracking and shrinkage in my home. See what it looks like in July/August, if the condition persists, consult a local experienced contractor.


1

If there is any sheen, de-gloss by sanding then thoroughly clean the wall.


1

If you go to the British Gypsum website (the UK leading dry lining manufacturer) you can download a PDF called the 'white book', this covers everything dry lined related and is what contractors have to work to to comply with tested systems etc. I'm going from memory, but I recall that with a standard 12mm dry lining using typical rule plugs you can hang 5kg ...


1

You may be trying to drill into a concrete or brick wall. you can remove some outlet covers (e.g., electric, cable) on that same wall to be able to get a peek inside and confirm. It's also possible that you are drilling into a stud or even a fire break. Both of the above situations are a good thing if you are trying to hang/mount heavy items. If it is a ...


1

Old thread I know,but it still shows up in results, so I thought this image might prove useful to anyone new to drywall...


1

Without a picture, I am guessing you want to frame a wall out of steel studs and you are asking how to fasten the track between the concrete beams. The only way to do this is to either run your wall all the way up to the slab, or to span the concrete beams perpendicular with a piece of track or stud. Just cut tongues on either side of the track and install ...


1

Don't use a corner trowel to set the tape - the extra surface contact, and the pressure required, drags it out and through the joint. A corner trowel cannot be used effectively, as the sole tool in a corner - period. They are typically, only 4" wide, from corner to edge, and are intended for the finish stroke, that defines the corner - not the stroke that ...


1

Taping is a skill. I'd say, with my learning curve, it's 30% knowledge and 70% skill. That being said aside from the consistency of the mud, the things that I've found for inside corners are: Make sure that the mud is evenly applied on both walls(uniform thickness on both walls and smooth) and has no bubbles. It's easier to under apply mud than over ...


1

Wood casement around your windows swell and contract with weather changes and humidity in the house. This causes the plaster in the lower right and lower left corners of your windows to crack and shoot the crack downward. Sometimes it's a hairline and sometimes a small chunk. Only 2 ways to stop it is either replace entire wooden window casing(terrible idea) ...



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