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This sounds like a good candidate for the procedure you outline, done with loose fill cellulose insulation, with two caveats. First of all, while this could conceivably be a DIY project, you can't rent a typical cellulose blower from Home Depot or the like because it doesn't have the power to really densely pack the stuff in there; as a result, the material ...


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Attempting to put caulking to the wall under the base board with the carpet installed is very likely going to result in caulking spread out onto the carpet - also if you ever have to pull it temporarily - the parts embedded into the caulk will separate from the rest of the carpet. Unfortunately, placing the caulking under the baseboard with the carpet ...


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There are huge differences. I am sure a professional tradesman can go over the exacts but here is my common man take(even though I have drywalled too many houses to remember): plaster generally sets quicker plaster is thicker plaster can be applied thicker (joint compound you get about 1/8") plaster to me is like working with thinset except you will see ...


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You will need a specialty insulation blower and not the one you find at home depot or lowes. You would drill holes at the top of the cavity and blow in your insulation being careful not to overfill and blow the dry wall out. The process is slow and time consuming but can save you a lot of money especially if your walls are not insulated.


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There are merits to both. For structural support (yes, drywall adds some shear support) you want fewer joints and drywall crossing as many studs as possible. This has the side benefit of reducing the amount of taping needed and may use less mud. For visual appeal, tapered joints are easier to completely hide with mud. Rather than spreading out the mud over ...


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Well, you could form the skirting directly out of plaster, but that would only fulfill the "appearance" and not the "function" (such as it is) of the skirting board. And for most of us that would be more "messy" than "elegant", though the real plaster pros can do very elegant things in the high side of the wall for moldings that won't see the abuse a ...


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As someone who has had their health severely compromised by mold exposure, I can give you a piece of sound advice: MOVE. NOW. From speaking with numerous industrial hygienists, I have come to learn that neither KILLZ nor bleach effectively remove mold. Walls and ceilings most likely need to be removed in a negative pressure environment. Regular ...


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I had a similar situation where the backer board extended a few inches past my planned tiling edge in my shower. After I had finished with the tile, I taped the joint and applied joint compound over the backer board and it seems great. It's been three years and there is no cracking or any problem with it. That's not exactly an answer but I hope it helps you ...


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Cellulose insulation would be a great choice if you have living quarters above. The cellulose insulation is more dense and will help control air movement and drafts. Cellulose Insulation



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