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6

Aluminum wont help much, unless it is quite thick. It will bend easily, without distributing the weight evenly over the extra anchors. If you go with a non articulating mount, so the monitor is against the wall, you may be able to get away with strong drywall anchors. With an articulating mount I wouldnt risk it. I would get a small piece of cheap but ...


6

You'll be fine, though you might want to go buy a bag of setting type (dry powder, mix with water - sets, rather than drying out like the stuff in a bucket) joint compound, both because it's the right type for use with mesh tape, and becasue of this tid-bit from USG: Open spaces between panels of 6.4 mm (1/4􏰀) or more should be filled with compound at ...


5

One of the main purposes of moldings, such as the trim around doors and windows (called casings), is to act as a barrier and seal to wind and water intrusion. Moldings on wall between vertical boards, called battens served a similar purpose. The decorative element was an extra benefit (unless you are an extreme modernist/minimalist who wants totally flat ...


5

This sounds like old school plaster on metal mesh, common for that era in apartments and condos. Hard as a rock. However, you'd have to open up the wall to find the concrete block that's most likely behind it, because the plaster is only supported by furring strips tacked into the blocks with nails. Do not be fooled if your stud-finder scores a hit. Don't be ...


3

You can use whatever materials you would normally use. A "zero clearance" fireplace means wood and other burnable materials can be safely adjacent and touching the fireplace. The fireplace internally isolates the heat box from the casing with free flowing air to keep the outer casing cool. If there was sheetrock there before and the rest of the room uses ...


2

Gypsum board will not support a glass door, unless the door is tiny (like a 6" square). You will need a frame which goes all around the opening and is secured to a structural member, like a stud. Then the door is attached with hinges to the frame and a latch or latches are installed on the other side of the frame.


2

The best situation here would be to make the plywood plate large enough so that it spans across at least two studs. This will determine the horizontal span of the plywood. The vertical span should be not less than about 0.75 times the horizontal span. The plywood material needs to be hefty enough to be able to take the fasteners needed for the arm assembly. ...


2

All dryers need a vent. Gas and electric dryers need a vent to the outside of the house to allow all the moisture to escape from the dryer. All-in-one washer/dryer combo units don't need an air vent, but need a water drain to remove the water from the drying stage (which you need anyways to drain the wash cycle). The walls are irrelevant. So don't worry ...


2

If it was me, I'd cut away the bad drywall and replace it with 1/2" hardi board. That'll give a flat, solid and waterproof substrate for your tiles, in contrast to the beaten up drywall you've got now. Oh, and be sure to thoroughly caulk the gap between the drywall and the hardi.


2

That looks like nearly 3/4 inch in a 2 foot run. That is a lot of angle, and I think most carpenters would consider it unacceptable on a new framing job (unless there were some underlying issue, like a pipe or an old beam preventing a square outcome). But it also sounds like your contractor is challenged when it comes to getting something square. You can ...


1

You definitely should install an exhaust vent in the room for humidity and buy a quiet one so you will actually use it. But if you don't it will be like every other 6'-0"x5'-6" laundry room with a vent that is not on; point is not the end of the world. As for the rest, install your required utities and fixtures for the appliances (power, water, sewer, ...


1

We are doing mostly option 3 right now in our house, but in our case, we are pulling the trim down to strip the paint on the trim, and clean up the walls. (100 years of paint, varnish and some neglect). It's not terrible to pull the trim, and I think it will make the rest of the job so much easier. Just be cautious with the window apron (underneath the ...


1

A hole that size should be taped to prevent cracking. You don't need to use tape though. Another method uses the patch piece of drywall's paper: Square the opening to be patched. Cut a pice of drywall about 4" x 4" larger then the hole. Score the back side of the patch piece of drywall along lines 1 & 2, about 2" in from the end. Place the drywall face ...


1

I've always taped repairs in drywall that require patches. I can't give you a great answer as to why other than I've always been told without taping, eventually the joint compound will crack. I've never personally tested that theory. This thread might offer insight.


1

While the usual trick for super-flat butt joints is to set the gap between studs (see the first answer in Should drywall be hung horizontally or vertically? for an excellent description), it doesn't seem like your situation would work for this. Sadly, the best advice is to get a 10 or 12" taping knife and feather, feather, feather. (I personally wouldn't ...


1

Like any other drywall patch - there IS a raised area where the tape is. But you feather compound out 6-12" and there is no NOTICEABLE raised area, as the deviation from "exactly flat" is too small for the eye to see. Tape with a 4" knife. Re-coat with an 8" knife. Finish with a 12" knife.



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