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39

If you do the walls first, you can end up with drywall that is unsupported along an entire edge. Taking these walls for example. Walls First If you add drywall to the walls. Then add drywall to the ceiling. The ceiling drywall will be unsupported along the entire length of the one wall. Ceiling First Given the same walls. If you add drywall to ...


12

I was always told to drywall the ceiling before the walls so you can butt the wall sheets flush up against the ceiling so there is no need to fill gaps before taping the corner where they meet. If there is a gap at the bottom, that's no big deal as there is normally trim that would cover it.


9

You raise a number of issues. How to fill an irregularly shaped hole? To cut drywall (or any panel) to an exact shape with non parallel sides is hard. So what we usually do is make the hole regular. You can trim away some of the remaining drywall, preferably so the edge runs along the middle of a stud, parallel to another stud or the corner. Then cut a ...


7

Ceiling first is less work, otherwise I don't think it makes a difference. Doing the ceiling first means you can lift the wall sheets to make a tight joint. By contrast if you do the walls first you would have to sculpt every edge to make it seat tightly, and/or end up with lots of voids to fill before you tape.


5

Just put a piece of drywall in and give it a first coat of mud and tape. Seriously this is 10 minutes and no mess. Big box sells little kits for $10 or less for stuff like this. Then when you get around to selling no one will really mind a little patchwork to do in closet.


5

Is it possible to fix it? yes, but there is an awful lot of work to be done in order to do so. Each of those gaps has to be filled with mud and covered with tape. Given the shrinkage that occurs as mud dries, most of them are going to require several layers to fill properly. In particular, filling in around the ceiling fixture is likely to be problematic ...


4

My crews going back 20 years have always done ceilings before walls. Tester has a really good answer that discusses the blocking issue but misses what I feel is the biggest piece of advice. And that is leaving the perimeter of your ceiling drywall floating over the last 8-12 inches. You would not be able to do this without the walls holding up the ...


4

1/4" drywall will readily bend into a radius and is available at the big box stores. 2 layers of that with glue between the framing and the 2nd layer. A 2X4, as long as the sheet with a few short 2X to hold it while you screw it in place. It must be tight to the framing before you run screws into it to hold it.


3

Freestanding steel studs are fine (assuming they are anchored to a sill and top plate). Steel studs anchored to the furring strips are fine. Why wouldn't steel studs anchored to the furring strips, plaster and lath be fine? The only limitation would be if the lath and plaster had significant bowing or hollowing in spots that the new studs came in contact ...


3

Where is the water damage relative to the exterior ground level? I note in the outside picture that there is significant slope to the ground - if the ground on the uphill and slope-side sides is not shaped to move water away from and around the house, it would be likely that there would be water damage on the lower parts of the walls from water flowing over ...


2

That looks suspiciously like somebody decided to cut a door through the wall and either gave up or decided it was too much work. The wall construction looks like veneer plaster, which would fit with the age of the house. Whatever method you decide to use, you're going to have to get some more framing in there. You at very least would need to replace the ...


2

This seems to be a design and/or shopping question, that is completely dependent on personal preference. You could trim the hole out with wood, some type of metal or plastic flange, some type of port hole from a ship (if you're going for a nautical theme), etc. The options are only limited by your imagination.


2

This is the same as removing any in-wall cabinet or shelving. Drywall repair really isn't a big deal. Any kind of cover panel is going to raise questions about why access is needed at that point, and "because I didn't want to deal with drywall" is probably not going to be very convincing to the prospective buyer. Frankly, if you really hate the idea of ...


2

Fiberglass is visible in the drywall when you cut the paper face and snap it back. Instead of just the rough powdery plaster, you will see what looks like a fuzzy surface that's the bits of fiberglass that were embedded in the two halves. Type X drywall is used for fire rated applications, which are typically garages, common walls in a multi-dwelling ...


2

Around here (PNW), two layers of 3/8 inch drywall applied one at a time and overlapping so no seams coincide is the easy way to do it. Two layers are needed for fire code in the modern world to give a full 60 minute burn-through time. I have seen 1/2 inch installed in curves of maybe 24 inch diameter by experienced professionals who prepared by leaving it ...


1

It sounds like you want to keep using the existing holes, which by now are quite stripped and loose. As mentioned in the comments, for a shelf you almost certainly want to fasten it to studs. However it is possible (though not advisable) to have a shallow, light shelf supported by drywall. So if you are unwilling to mount to studs, consider using ...


1

This video has a great section on installing board on a curve. It will most likely depend on the board size. The link includes the start time of 34m40s. How to Hang Drywall


1

While that is a fairly ugly hanging job - I've finished worse. As long as he's not milking you for money, while he works, it might be worth it to stick it out. You're paying for the finished work, not how he makes it there. To answer the question - Yes, it is possible to smooth over those imperfections. The corner will get bead, the outlets will get covers, ...


1

Your best source for information about drywall, is going to be the manufacturers. USG National Gypsum Georgia Pacific CertainTeed


1

How about you get straight edged drywall for the back layer so you don't have to worry about the tapered edge?



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