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4

You may be able to run the screw right into the framing with out using the anchors. It will hold much better if it is framing and not wood lath or masonry. if the brackets are directly over the window, you may have found the header.


3

It depends on the type of anchor and the length of the screw, but I think you may have another problem. Most drywall anchors rely on the screw to expand the anchor and secure it into the drywall. In these cases, if the screw is not into the anchor to an adequate depth, the anchor will not have sufficient purchase in the sheetrock. With this said, however, ...


2

I found this video on youtube titled: "Plastic Toggle Anchors" that shows their installation. The trick is to use your index finger to push in the toggle so that it can collapse down into a "barrel" shape for insertion into a pre-drilt hole in the dry-wall. Here are the key shots from that video. image #1 image #2 image #3 image #4


2

It's probably double 5/8ths drywall, I'd use toggle bolts. And then washers and 3" deck screws to the stud for safety (not drywall screws), even if you're going to do all four corners with toggle bolts. There should be some one-by inside the cabinet at the top (and possibly the bottom) this is where you want your fasteners penetrating, not just through the ...


2

If you are concerned about the weight an easy solution is to put a sheet of plywood (or nicer wood, if it will still be visible once the TV is in place) across 3 studs. Secure it with 2 screws into each stud. Then screw the wall mount into the wood. Doing it this way will definitely support the weight of any TV you might try to mount. And allows you to ...


1

The structure of the wall is gone in the direct vicinity, so moving the anchors you have will not work, and spackle is more a replacement for the paper on the drywall, than the gypsum itself. Most useful, I think: Plan A: How to wire a picture, using 2 hooks. The hooks do not have to be level https://www.flickr.com/photos/some_guy/16751622487/ Other ...


1

You only get one shot on anchor placement, unless your going to move them both to new holes at least an inch away. At this point I'd be looking at modifying the D-rings: string some picture wire between them or make small loops on both. Switching to toggle-bolts would give you an eighth inch of play, no problem. But you'd need a nut and a washer to stand it ...


1

I get a flat screw driver and tap them with a hammer until it is about 1/8" inside drywall. Then just a bit of spackle over the indention.


1

You may be trying to drill into a concrete or brick wall. you can remove some outlet covers (e.g., electric, cable) on that same wall to be able to get a peek inside and confirm. It's also possible that you are drilling into a stud or even a fire break. Both of the above situations are a good thing if you are trying to hang/mount heavy items. If it is a ...


1

I used a flathead screwdriver that was a part of my computer repair kit from RadioShack. I was able to get the nail to come out enough and then grab it with pliers. Then once the nail is out, the anchor is really easy to pull out. I have a video available at http://youtu.be/T6BE45nCOiQ Hope it helps!


1

The manufacturers web site offers installation instructions, as well as a helpful video. An instructional video can also be found on YouTube.


1

For that much weight, I would try to drill into the studs. You can find them using a studfinder, or sometimes knocking and listening for the change in pitch will be enough. If in doubt, find several, and assume they are evenly spaced. Make sure the drilled holes and screws are long enough to penetrate well into the stud, say at least 2 inches. Of course, to ...


1

The best way to handle this situation is to span two studs at the end of the closet with a smallish plank, screwing it into both studs. Then you can screw the rod end mount to that plank and rest assured that it's as sturdy as you can get it. The "far" end of that plank will very probably screw to the stud at the far rear corner of the closet's end wall, ...


1

The commonly recommended solution is to find the wood the ceiling was screwed into (using a studfinder, or a magnet to find those screws), and screw the hanging hardware into that. That avoids questions of whether the plasterboard can take the weight, whether there's space behind the board to maneuver your proposed anchor, etc. A small hole is not hard to ...


1

You might have answered your own question... what about a (larger) needle? Tie the fishing wire round the middle of the needle (and perhaps use a dab of glue to hold it in place if it won't hold itself). If you can't find a large enough needle, try a small gauge knitting needle? Again it might need a dab of glue to hold the wire in place in the centre.



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