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23

I wouldn't hang my TV from the drywall. You really should put it in a stud.


22

The Hole is too big: It could be that your pilot holes are too big. When the screw is inserted, the anchor does not expand enough to bite into the surrounding hole. Keep in mind that most plastic anchors are tapered, so you want them to fit tightly in the hole. If you can push them in too easily, then the hole is too big. Some plastic anchors have a ...


16

There's several ways to fix this, depending on a few things. The best thing to do is avoid drywall anchors, and screw directly into a stud. If there's one close enough that it looks okay, you should do that. You'll have to patch up these holes, which may be a bit of a pain to do with the textured walls, but it's doable. The next best option is probably ...


12

This is a tall unit and if it were fully loaded, it could really hurt someone (especially a child) should it fall. Products like the 3M command strips are designed for hooks where the force on them is acting downwards. Your cabinet on the other hand, should it tip, would be pulling away from the wall and I really don't think those strips would hold. If it ...


9

I almost always use the self-drilling stud solver type anchors. I find that they are tough enough to hang just about anything. Aside from those, the only other anchors I've found that I like are the toggle-bolt type, which are more useful if you need to hang something from the ceiling.


7

An alternative to using a large wall anchor for heavy duty mounting is to always find a wall stud for whatever item you are hanging on the wall. Then you can use a smaller gauge screw (or nail) without any type of anchor required. This will leave a smaller hole in the drywall and give you all the strength you need, but limit you to the places where you can ...


6

This article has a beautiful summary of the different types of anchors.


6

Get a piece of 3/4 inch plywood and cut it as wide as the gap between the studs, plus 3.5 inches. It should be about as tall as your tv. Also get a couple of 3.5 inch lag bolts or a box of 4 inch deck screws. Also get 6 or more 1 inch bolts as fat as the mounting slots on the bracket and matching t-nuts. Center the bracket on the plywood and mark the ...


6

The standard advice is to use the stud finder, mount the bike hooks on studs, and make do with a few lost inches. But if you must get those extra inches, you can mount a 2x4 on the wall horizontally, with at least each end anchored into a stud. And then you can install your bike hook on the 2x4.


6

While having all four mount points connect to structure (aka: the stud) is ideal, I think in your case, having two mount points in wood and two in a drywall anchor, you're going to be ok. Consider this question: What is the weight capacity of a drywall screw? One drywall screw CAN (not should) hold a lot of weight for its size. Also a properly installed ...


5

They make many different types of wall anchors. I have used different forms of E-Z Anchors for years and am happy with them. They hold up to 100 pounds in sheetrock with their toggle lock anchors. 1 of the normal screw anchors can hold 25 pounds in half inch rock. I am sure those brackets have more than one mounting hole? Place on the wall where you ...


4

If this is a wall to wall carpet then the back edge of the cabinet most likely sitting on the tacking strip that is placed around the edge of the room under the carpet. Making the cabinet lean forward slightly. You could try placing one or 2 shims under the front edges of the cabinet to level cabinet or even raise the front a bit so it tends to lean back ...


4

The plastic anchor is good enough if want to hang a feather dream catcher on it. These other metal ones with the big counter sunk cylinders on them are ok to hang a small picture frame on it. If you need some more hanging wieght i would recomend using these on a drywall on the empty space. Reasonably more hanging power- should hold a large picture frame ...


4

Try your best not to pull out the whole bracket/clip without trying to pry the nail portion out first. The anchor used in these clips are the kind that split in half inside the wall so if you pry the whole fitting out, you will end up with an unnecessarily large hole to patch. Unfortunately, as you can tell from the pictures, it's not easy to simply pry ...


4

The wall is already damaged - nails do that to walls - so you're looking at fixing the wall no matter what. With that in mind, you want a hammer, a small pry bar, a small quantity of joint compound or "wall repair spackle" (the latter is in the paint department), a sponge, a 1" putty knife, 1 pint or quart of primer and an equal quantity of interior paint ...


4

Wood screws directly into a stud are going to be many times stronger then drywall anchors. When you have hit a stud, use a screw. When you are just in the drywall, use a drywall anchor. Drilling out the strong wood to replace with weak plastic doesn't make any sense. If you really wanted to just use anchors, they make metal anchors that can be driven ...


4

You may be able to run the screw right into the framing with out using the anchors. It will hold much better if it is framing and not wood lath or masonry. if the brackets are directly over the window, you may have found the header.


3

They look like nails - they would not normally be nailed into drywall anchors as those are usually used for screws. Most likely they are nailed into a stud which is why they are tough to pull out. You just need to pry it off using the back of a hammer or a pry bar. You can put a piece of wood behind whatever you are prying with so that you do not damage ...


3

We once used 1x2 wood across the length of the window trim to attach blinds to. It might be a bit excess, but with added surface area being screwed into the wall, much stronger. You could paint it the color of the window trim (or stain) before hand so its less noticeable. It worked for the blinds because the blind ran the entire span of the window. ...


3

I had these exact same shelf clips and I found that the corner of a putty knife is perfect to pry out the nail just enough to get a small flat bar under the nail head. Putty knife is flat and usually stiff/flexible metal that is needed to pry out the nail.


3

I really hate the anchors that come with most wall accessories. I always throw them away and opt for my own anchors. I love the self tapping screw in type. They look like an over sized masonry or self tapping screw. So easy to use, simply insert the sharp point on your mark, no drilling required and use a #2 phillips screwdriver to screw them into your ...


3

How far apart are these studs? You can find brackets with an adjustment. The frame idea you are thinking of will work if the wood is thick enough and you use the appropriate screws (actually, I'd recommend wood bolts) into the studs. A few 2x4's running horizontally with some wood trim to box the sides should be fine without looking too bad. I would ...


3

I suggest you try some OOK Hangers. They are easy to install, don't make large holes, and hold a surprising amount of weight.


3

TapCon concrete screws would be minimal damage to the concrete, so I'd consider them first. However, if you must not damage the concrete, then it's more challenging. My next recommendation would be to use a wooden backing that is vertically longer/higher than the coat rack. If your coat rack is 20cm high where it contacts the wall, then make your wood ...


3

Typically you would remove them, however the anchor you are using is marketed as a "stud solver" meaning that it can be driven into a stud. I think it is fine to leave them. If you were using small plastic drywall anchors then I'd definitely remove them and drive a screw directly into the stud.


2

Here is a similar answer from another question though this question is more multi-purpose. There are several kinds of drywall anchors and they each have their own weight rating. Some work by drilling a small hole and tapping in a plastic sleeve and others work by drilling a bigger hole and screwing a plastic sleeve and there are others where you drill a ...


2

There are plastic anchors. My suggestion, avoid them like the plague. I much prefer the self-drilling that Eric posted, easier to install and much stronger hold in my experience. With these, you have to pre-drill the hole, get it too small and it doesn't fit and you have to drill again, or it gets stuck partially and you have to rip it out or try to mash ...


2

I'd find mounding hardware with a wide base, then use the 't-bolts' to anchor them (it's a bolt with spring-loaded 'wings' that expand inside the wall to grab the back-side of the sheetrock). The wider the base, the better, as it will distribute the load over a larger area of sheetrock. As for tensioning, you really do want the turnbuckle, as the cable ...


2

I really don't have an exact answer to the amount of weight 1/2 inch rock will hold, but practically speaking, I would not exceed more that 30 or 40 pounds per 30 inch shelf using screw type anchors. I use the screw in anchors all the time with great results, far better than the drill and tap in type. I would encourage you to try to mount the support rails ...


2

How much the drywall will withstand will depend largely upon its thickness. 1/8" drywall is pretty flimsy while 7/8" can take quite a tug. If you're talking any more than just a few pounds, then seriously I wouldn't rely on drywall anchors - if necessary cut out some drywall and install a backer board.



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