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2

Addressing your title question. No, no break-in required - it was better "instantly." If you only replaced the belt, you probably did not solve the problem; the broken belt may have been a symptom of other issues with the drum drive train, making it harder to turn and stressing the belt as a result. I just did a similar repair (my belt was not broken - but ...


5

Tighten the spring on the idler pulley. Or the old belt broke because the bearings are shot (not good, in my experience that's new washer time). Actually on a dryer, it's worth it/much easier to replace the bearings and glides. If the drum doesn't spin freely without the belt, you may want to go ahead and a take a look at the drum glides and see if ...


2

You should use them to avoid not having any means of recompense from the shipper, or from the manufacturer by voiding the warranty. If you didn't save yours, replacement shipping bolts can be obtained from most appliance parts suppliers (the label with your model number is probably behind the door). I would not be concerned, if you're the one carefully ...


1

Yes. The coil[s] can be replaced. I've done mine twice. Coil failure indicates inefficient venting, so it's worth looking at the the vents while doing the job.


1

As others have said going up is not a problem, it is the horizontal after that bites. Did you know that galvanized ducting can rust? Did you know that rusty pipe holds lint very well and is impossible to clean? Did you know that dryer lint can mold? Here is what I would do If I had to put that dryer back into service: brand new galvanized dryer duct for the ...


3

It really doesn't make any difference when it comes to lint build up. But you might consider putting a secondary lint trap near the dryer to help reduce the amount of lint trapped in the line.


0

The important thing about the electric cord is that all connections be tight, so if the screw will hold then using a washer to pack the gap so that the connector is pressed against the conductor would create a safe connection.


0

If you have more than enough crawlspace venting, you could simply cut away the screen from one of the existing foundation vents and install a dryer vent in its place. As long as the dryer duct pipe is not excessively long (allowing moisture to condense or lint to settle), that should suffice. Otherwise, cut another hole in the crawlspace perimeter for a ...


1

Relevant: In what year did venting bathroom exhaust out of the house become a code requirement? I am NOT a lawyer or an inspector. The relevance of these codes and CA law are my own interpretation. Going all the way back to IRC 2000: (Italic emphases; mine) R303.3 Bathrooms Bathrooms, water closet compartments and other similar rooms shall be ...


1

The "proper" way to vent the dryer, is to go out the wall. This could be the wall of the garage, or the wall of the crawlspace. Though if you're venting through the wall of the crawlspace, you'll want to make sure the vent is the proper distance away from any crawlspace vents. You're also supposed to use rigid metal duct, not the flexible crap. There are ...


1

In the plumbing world this is fine. However it might not be fine with your dryer. You will need to read the manual or call the manufacturer to get an answer. I don't foresee a dryer using a steaming feature needing more than a 1/8" line but who knows if there is some sort of pressure rating needed. It is probable that the manufacturer doesn't use 1/8" ...



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