New answers tagged dryer
If the duct is extremely clogged, you will need a professional. The tools for consumers do not have the strength to push through clogs. If the brush gets stuck which is very possible because of joints that are not flush or screws that are not permitted, you will need to hire someone to do an extra job.
First I would not paint it unless you start noticing a little rust. Better to give it an inspection every once in a while. If you do paint it, I would go with an automotive engine enamel. (it requires a long dry time)
Your question is a bit convoluted, but the answer is very simple. The breaker size must match or be lower than the wire amp rating feeding the circuit, and appliances on that circuit should not exceed the max rating of the wire or breaker. In a dedicated circuit for a dryer, for example, the normal size of the circuit would be 30 amps. 30 amps requires a ...
The 50 amp refers to the capacity of the circuit: in particular the wires. The dryer can, and likely does, draw much less, similar to plugging a 60 watt light bulb into a socket rated for a 100 watt bulb. This itself is not a problem. That said 30amp is more typical. If that circuit runs one 30 amp outlet (http://fam-oud.nl/~plugsocket/NorthAm-3hd.html ) ...
Longneck is right on the rigid venting. This is a must going straight up like this. Also for the issues that you have had it is common sense to put a vent booster on the line. I think the rigid vent will certainly help but if you had that many problems then I would assume that gravity is getting the best of your situation. If you just replace with ...
If possible, you want everything rigid: the connection from the dryer to the wall, the duct in the wall, and the duct in the attic. Sometimes rigid for the connection between the dryer and the wall is difficult to get right with a rigid duct so if you have to go with flexible duct then use the smallest piece practical. A secondary lint trap is probably not ...
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