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17

Hacksaw Lots of work. BORING! Oscillating multi-tool or Rotary tool You're probably not cutting 1/8" steel with this, but it's useful for cutting very thin metal. Jigsaw A little more fun, but still a bit tedious. Make sure you use the proper blade. Reciprocating saw More fun, but you may have trouble keeping a straight line. Angle grinder ...


9

Try to slide something flat in that is the width of the drawer. I've used a plastic flexible cutting board for this purpose before. Slide it open that 1/4 inch, and try to get the flat sheet to ride over whatever is jamming the drawer--you may have to nearly close the drawer with the sheet in place to get it up and over. Then try to pull open the drawer and ...


7

Open it so it jams then back it off a bit, so whatever is causing the jam is not stuck. Then using a ruler, piece of cardboard, or other flat object, work it into the gap so it rests above the drawer contents and presses down on them (or just guides them) to free them from the drawer or frame above.


6

You push the black tab in to towards the side of the drawer. Then lift up the front edge, making sure the black tab fits through the slot. Once the black tab is clear, you can pull the drawer out a tiny bit to unhook the hook towards the back.


6

Looks like an L corner bracket/brace. Probably worth upgrading to a metal one if it would fit: Amazon product link


6

It means the slide is 16" long and that you can pull your drawer out a full 16" relative to the slide. If your cabinet space was 20" deep, and you mounted this all the way at the back then your drawer would not come out 16" but instead 16-4=12".


5

Interesting question Ryan. Over the years I have bought a lot of doors and drawer fronts, but never a drawer box as a component. I suspect if you have 6 piece drawers, you might be able to get the boxes directly from the cabinet manufacturer. I have never seen just the box components, (sides, backs, bottoms etc) listed anywhere for sale. You could check ...


5

I'm guessing these shattered because of shock or perhaps from being fully extended more than normal since the front wheel takes a lot of the weight when drawer is fully extended. The rail is acting as a lever where 10kg in the front of the drawer could easily be the equivalent of 100kg on that wheel when the drawer is fully open. The other thoughts are if ...


4

I would purchase a complete drawer slide from IKEA. They're not expensive and then there won't be any questions as to whether they have changed the mechanics of the device or not.


4

The ruler idea usually works for me. If not ... If there is a draw below it, pull it out, then you may be able to reach under and up behind the jammed upper drawer and move the contents around or pull some out.


4

One website for furniture plans that my wife recently found is ana-white.com. Best thing is, they're free! Each article/blog post has a materials list and instructions. There are quite a few plans for near-duplicates of brand-name furniture makers' products. Here's instructions for a dresser from the website. (I'm not sure exactly what you mean by a ...


4

The major home centers, Lowes, Home Depot, etc can typically order items such as this custom made. If the cabinet was originally a "stock" size cabinet from such a place, it should be easy to get a replacement. You may or may not be able to find a match to the finish, though. I would hesitate to spend a lot on a really good replacement as a merely adequate ...


3

Remove the drawer beneath or above the stuck draw. If you can get beneath it, push up against the drawer bottom and rattle that thing around. If you can remove the drawer above the problematic one, well, your problem should be before your eyes.


3

Stringers are the zigzag style angled beams that hold up conventional stairs. They are used on each side ot the staircase and sometimes in the middle as well. They hold up the treads and the risers (the vertical boards) are attached to them. Image 1 is basically floating treads on the stringers and using the risers as faces of drawer fronts. As the ...


3

I've had this happen before. Like the commenter mentioned, it's due to one of two things: The cabinet is not level with the floor causing the whole cabinet to lean forward. The tracks for the draw are not level, causing the drawer to tilt forward. Just get a level and test the drawer and the track.


2

There are a few tricks to drawer slides. The main things to get right are to make them parallel and co-planar (same distance from the case bottom on the right and the left side, as well as level front-to-back in the case). It helps if your case is perfectly square, so really focus on that. You'll want to determine your drawer width based on how thick the ...


2

This type of slide decouples simply by giving the drawer a good tug in the straightout direction. It is advised to start the tug when the drawer is fully extended and then apply a steady but very firm pull. When it comes time to reinstall the drawer you reach into the drawer opening and then pull the bearing carrier tray fully out up to the face frame. ...


2

In the end I had to stitch drill a hole in the base of the drawer until I could get my hand through the hole to move the items in the drawer. Having taken the drawer out it is obvious it is very badly designed and there is no other way of dealing with it.


2

You can ring IKEA, specify the piece(s) you need and they will send you out the replacement part so you don't even need to go back to the store. When it happened to me they had forgot to include pieces so they sent it out free of charge. I'm not sure if they'll charge you if you lost it of your own accord.


2

Adam Jaskiewicz covered the basics, but I'll add a few comments. I've built exactly one "furniture grade" drawer, but several "shop grade" drawers. And I've never done a dovetail joint. So take what I say with at least one grain of salt. The basic drawer box is four sides with a groove cut into the inside for the bottom. Depending on use, you can use 3/4 ...


2

The cleanest and fastest way would be to use a power jigsaw with an appropriate blade ("for metal", small teeth). You'll still need to drill two holes in the corners to be able to turn the blade in between cuts. You'll then need a file for minor final treatment of the cuts. The cheapo way would be to use a hacksaw for the lengthwise cuts and then a series ...


2

I personally would use an angle grinder because it's a lot easier to keep a straight line. That, and you can use the same tool to clean the burrs off after. However, they're more dangerous than a jigsaw. You could always start out with a dremel and a few cutoff wheels. I mentioned burrs above. Since it looks like you've never cut metal before, be aware ...


2

Can you shake it a bit or get a coat hanger (or some other sturdy wire) inside and try to reposition whatever is holding it closed?


2

I've just succeeded in opening an overfilled kitchen drawer! The drawer was almost completely closed and was so accurately fitted that a thin metal ruler wouldn't slide in. I tried a piece of card; also too thick. I then used a very thin filing cabinet 'hanger' after removing the metal pieces. This, to my amazement, slid in and was wide enough to go right ...


1

Just figured it out. For cheaper drawers, there is a single screw on the inside of the drawer. Remove that screw from both sides to detach the drawer from the metal sliders on each side.


1

My experience is that Ikea does not sell replacements for this part. Nor could I order the part from them. I have tried replacing it with other slides and the other one broke too.


1

You could consider drilling a small hole in the center of the back board of each drawer. Then drill a corresponding hole through the back side of the drawer cabinet unit itself. Remove the drawer and install a piece of heavy string through the hole in the back of the drawer. On the inside if the drawer knot the string so it cannot pull through the hole in ...


1

If you can reach the underside of the drawer, I would remove the screws that hold the drawer to the rails. With a little bit of maneuvering you should be able to drop the drawer down a little and start to pull items out of the top.


1

Home Depot usually won't cut material that is not purchased new from their store. if vise then hacksaw If you can clamp the area you need to cut in a vise, I would use a hack saw. Use some corrugated cardboard in the jaws to protect the finish. You may want to watch some YouTube videos on how to properly use a hacksaw (yes there are good and bad ...



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