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9

That sludge is really just a mix of soap, water, skin cells, hair, tooth paste and all the other lovely stuff that goes down your drain. I doubt it is fungus. You can't really prevent it. There are all sorts of chemical and non-chemical mixtures you can try to clean it out, but I think removing the trap and cleaning it out is the best bet. If the trap is ...


8

Put on good rubber gloves, preferably ones that are made for handling hazardous chemicals, and safety goggles. Make a thick paste with a cup of baking soda and cold water and spread it over the area to neutralize the sulfuric acid. Even though it has dried it is still active. Let the paste sit for 10-15 minutes before touching it. You may want to open a ...


6

It sounds like the pipe is partially blocked and water can only get through at a slower speed. The drain at the hot water is the lowest point so that's why it is coming from there. The blockage could be anything, from debris that came in through the pipe in the service closet or a sock that made it out of the washer. Since it's after where the water is ...


6

I'd slip a cheater bar into the drain and see if you can pop it loose by turning it clockwise (so you don't unscrew the tail-piece). If you can get it to turn without twisting it you should be able to get it to pull out. If you can't and it starts to twist the pipe without breaking it loose, cut it off with a hacksaw close to the tail-piece leaving enough ...


5

Since all of your drains are slow, you could have blocked or broken connection to the sewer system. There are companies you can hire that will come in and put a camera down the drain pipe so you can see blockages or breaks. It's been quite awhile since I had it done, so I can't remember exactly what it cost, but it seems like it was $200-$300.


5

Sounds like a problem with the venting. Your neighbor's toilet is likely not vented properly, so when they flush it siphons your toilet. Contact a local plumber, and/or the building manager, and have the problem investigated.


5

Normal modern drain installations do not require any regular cleaning. If you notice a clog/slowdown or gurgling, a targeted cleaning may help. But if your concern is buildup of material inside of drain/waste/vent pipes, this is rarely a concern. Sometimes after 50-100 years there can be enough buildup to cause a problem. But preemptive cleaning of drains is ...


4

Try something like Draino or Liquid Plumr - both are alkaline bases, which may dissolve a clog that an acid won't. For the tub especially, you may want to try just taking off the cover (if there is one) and looking to see if there is hair or something blocking it - it is easiest just to remove the stuff you can manually, then put a drain clog remover down. ...


4

My initial thought is that the proper venting is not established is your plumbing system. You need to have "air behind water" to allow everything to drain properly. Essentially it is just a vent pipe that leads to your roof so that pressure does not build up and slow the draining of your sink/tub. Just like how you would punch two holes in the top of a ...


4

Tooth paste and soap (even a little anti-bacterial) are certainly fine. Basically, you just don't want to put any harsh chemicals in there that will kill the bacteria eating away at the waste. I would avoid food and thicker items as they will not break down. I try not to allow hair, coffee grounds as they might not break down. I would definitely avoid ...


4

Admittedly, I haven't done it before but I came across instructions awhile ago (courtesy of eHow and Google). Maybe they'll be helpful. http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-fix-a-broken-tub-trip-lever http://www.ehow.com/how_3391064_replace-triplever-bathtub-drain.html -M


4

Since your question says hot water, not steam escaping from overflow, my first thought would be to check for a faulty high pressure relief valve. This is the cylinder with the little lift switch usually mounted atop the tank with the drain line attached.


4

It it is a new build, then removing the trap under the sink will not be an issue. Just loosen the nuts, remove the trap (have a pan underneath) and then clean the trap. This is most likely the source of the slow draining. If the trap looks clean, then get a hand auger (snake) to clean the drain line. It is best to do this with the trap out. Hand augers ...


4

And the main stack and vent are located about 4ft to left of double sink. It seems you needed your vent to be to the right of the sinks. Although the installation is apparently within code for the length of a single trap arm, when the disposal forces water into the drain it is backfeeding the small sink trap. Having the vent to the right would allow air ...


3

If you have a garbage disposal, don't use it. Just throw the food away. Keep extra solids to a minimum.


3

This has been an ongoing problem in the bathroom sink we use the most. When I was using conventional solutions (Drano and the like) to unclog it, I just assumed that there was a bunch of hair in the drain. This was a problem every couple of weeks, though, and I hated spending so much money on toxic drain cleaners. A couple of years ago, I happened across a ...


3

Ordinary Drano and other clog removers are formulated mainly to dissolve hair and soap scum. For "bio-slime", you need something a little different. Look for "buildup remover" or "foaming pipe snake" products in the same area of the store as basic liquid drain openers. Use as directed, and they'll help considerably.


3

To answer the specific question of whether you need a separate vent for this sink: in my state (VA), the allowable distance between a 1 1/2" drain trap (standard size for a kitchen sink) and its vent is 6 feet. If your trap is farther from the vent than that, then you should consider adding a new vent or an air admittance valve. That said, too much ...


3

Do not use an acetylene torch! That will melt the pipe and make holes, cracks, etc. in it. I suggest turning with great force. A 18+ inch pipe wrench applied to the insert will probably unscrew it so it will just slide out. Otherwise, it will turn the outer pipe loose from whatever it is connected to. If the outer pipe was built well, it is fastened to ...


3

Dissimilar metals, the inside of the iron pipe will have rusted so tight to the brass pipe that you will need a half-round cape chisel and patience to get it out. This is a normal installation, the 1 1/4" pipe is supposed to slip in rather loosely into the larger pipe with a threaded ring and rubber gasket to make it water tight. Years of corrosion have ...


3

With plumbing it is all about maintaining the proper drop per foot. The fact that this is a wash machine makes the call even easier. I guess the theoretical issue would be would the 90s and slowing of the water make it more likely that something could stick to the inside bend and accumulate enough that you would have an issue. My thoughts on this: don't ...


2

better to remove the old one, then bring it with you when you do shopping, then show to the place where is you gonna buy it, or go to the second hand renovation shop and could be they have a spare of the old bathtub. But I believe there is have somewhere. And I think they are still standard... Good luck : )


2

I attached 12" plus or minus of electrical copper wire to my drain plug. Copper kills the bacteria. I have not had a problem since, and it has been 4 years.


2

Another option would be to install a flow-through trap primer. This is a device that feeds a small amount of water to the trap primer everytime the supply it is connected to runs. One constraint is that it needs to be oriented correctly due to the air gap. The one pictured is from Watts Series A200 Flow-Through Trap Primers are used in commercial and ...


2

lqlarry is likely right, and using a snake to clean out the line is the first step. (+1 Larry) It could also be a problem with the plumbing vent. If that is the issue, you would likely hear a gurgle after you shutoff the washing machine and the water gets down to the P-trap, not unlike the sound the toilet makes at the end of the flush. The other issue I ...


2

If there is a blockage (which it sounds like there is since it's backing up) then you probably want to snake it before jetting since jetting alone is not going to remove a big blockage. How big is the drain? If it's large (like a 4" sewer line) then a power drill snake is probably not going to cut it and you need a drain auger with a larger diameter and ...


2

We hooked up water hose to a stopper from Ace. It kept water from coming back and force washed the clog out. I did use liquid Plumber followed w/hot water first. The clog looked like big pieces of dried washing powder.


2

Yes, in most every home, multiple P traps eventually go into a single drain. The important considerations are that there is proper slope, there's a vent within a certain distance of the drain (either wet or dry), and that the drains are properly sized. What you can't have is one P trap in line with another (creating an air locked section), but two P traps ...


2

You have sewer gas. Water in your plumbing traps is supposed to prevent that. There's some problem that is resulting in not having a water seal in your traps for these items (they may share one trap if it happens to both at the same time.) If you pour water down the affected fixture (slowly) does the odor stop shortly thereafter? Or, if you carefully do ...



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