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9

That sludge is really just a mix of soap, water, skin cells, hair, tooth paste and all the other lovely stuff that goes down your drain. I doubt it is fungus. You can't really prevent it. There are all sorts of chemical and non-chemical mixtures you can try to clean it out, but I think removing the trap and cleaning it out is the best bet. If the trap is ...


7

Put on good rubber gloves, preferably ones that are made for handling hazardous chemicals, and safety goggles. Make a thick paste with a cup of baking soda and cold water and spread it over the area to neutralize the sulfuric acid. Even though it has dried it is still active. Let the paste sit for 10-15 minutes before touching it. You may want to open a ...


5

I'd slip a cheater bar into the drain and see if you can pop it loose by turning it clockwise (so you don't unscrew the tail-piece). If you can get it to turn without twisting it you should be able to get it to pull out. If you can't and it starts to twist the pipe without breaking it loose, cut it off with a hacksaw close to the tail-piece leaving enough ...


5

It sounds like the pipe is partially blocked and water can only get through at a slower speed. The drain at the hot water is the lowest point so that's why it is coming from there. The blockage could be anything, from debris that came in through the pipe in the service closet or a sock that made it out of the washer. Since it's after where the water is ...


4

Since all of your drains are slow, you could have blocked or broken connection to the sewer system. There are companies you can hire that will come in and put a camera down the drain pipe so you can see blockages or breaks. It's been quite awhile since I had it done, so I can't remember exactly what it cost, but it seems like it was $200-$300.


4

Try something like Draino or Liquid Plumr - both are alkaline bases, which may dissolve a clog that an acid won't. For the tub especially, you may want to try just taking off the cover (if there is one) and looking to see if there is hair or something blocking it - it is easiest just to remove the stuff you can manually, then put a drain clog remover down. ...


4

My initial thought is that the proper venting is not established is your plumbing system. You need to have "air behind water" to allow everything to drain properly. Essentially it is just a vent pipe that leads to your roof so that pressure does not build up and slow the draining of your sink/tub. Just like how you would punch two holes in the top of a ...


4

Tooth paste and soap (even a little anti-bacterial) are certainly fine. Basically, you just don't want to put any harsh chemicals in there that will kill the bacteria eating away at the waste. I would avoid food and thicker items as they will not break down. I try not to allow hair, coffee grounds as they might not break down. I would definitely avoid ...


4

Admittedly, I haven't done it before but I came across instructions awhile ago (courtesy of eHow and Google). Maybe they'll be helpful. http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-fix-a-broken-tub-trip-lever http://www.ehow.com/how_3391064_replace-triplever-bathtub-drain.html -M


4

Since your question says hot water, not steam escaping from overflow, my first thought would be to check for a faulty high pressure relief valve. This is the cylinder with the little lift switch usually mounted atop the tank with the drain line attached.


4

It it is a new build, then removing the trap under the sink will not be an issue. Just loosen the nuts, remove the trap (have a pan underneath) and then clean the trap. This is most likely the source of the slow draining. If the trap looks clean, then get a hand auger (snake) to clean the drain line. It is best to do this with the trap out. Hand augers ...


3

Dissimilar metals, the inside of the iron pipe will have rusted so tight to the brass pipe that you will need a half-round cape chisel and patience to get it out. This is a normal installation, the 1 1/4" pipe is supposed to slip in rather loosely into the larger pipe with a threaded ring and rubber gasket to make it water tight. Years of corrosion have ...


3

Do not use an acetylene torch! That will melt the pipe and make holes, cracks, etc. in it. I suggest turning with great force. A 18+ inch pipe wrench applied to the insert will probably unscrew it so it will just slide out. Otherwise, it will turn the outer pipe loose from whatever it is connected to. If the outer pipe was built well, it is fastened to ...


3

If you have a garbage disposal, don't use it. Just throw the food away. Keep extra solids to a minimum.


3

Ordinary Drano and other clog removers are formulated mainly to dissolve hair and soap scum. For "bio-slime", you need something a little different. Look for "buildup remover" or "foaming pipe snake" products in the same area of the store as basic liquid drain openers. Use as directed, and they'll help considerably.


3

To answer the specific question of whether you need a separate vent for this sink: in my state (VA), the allowable distance between a 1 1/2" drain trap (standard size for a kitchen sink) and its vent is 6 feet. If your trap is farther from the vent than that, then you should consider adding a new vent or an air admittance valve. That said, too much ...


2

better to remove the old one, then bring it with you when you do shopping, then show to the place where is you gonna buy it, or go to the second hand renovation shop and could be they have a spare of the old bathtub. But I believe there is have somewhere. And I think they are still standard... Good luck : )


2

If there is a blockage (which it sounds like there is since it's backing up) then you probably want to snake it before jetting since jetting alone is not going to remove a big blockage. How big is the drain? If it's large (like a 4" sewer line) then a power drill snake is probably not going to cut it and you need a drain auger with a larger diameter and ...


2

lqlarry is likely right, and using a snake to clean out the line is the first step. (+1 Larry) It could also be a problem with the plumbing vent. If that is the issue, you would likely hear a gurgle after you shutoff the washing machine and the water gets down to the P-trap, not unlike the sound the toilet makes at the end of the flush. The other issue I ...


1

@Martin James Agreed. As the volumetric thermal expansion coefficient of brass is nearly twice that of steel at room temperature, but the amount of heat needed for sufficient effect might damage the existing installation (or you), chilling the pipes would probably be the better option. I've freed jammed press brakes with a whole lot of ordinary ice, and ...


1

A stutgard? I assume this is a brand of air admittance valve (AAV)? This is basically a one way air valve that allows air into the vent to break any siphon action on the trap seals, but supposedly prevents sewer gases from coming out of the vent into the house. All the AAVs I've seen involve a lightly sprung wafer valve mechanism. They can sometimes become ...


1

To do it right you need to cut the pipe down below the height of the tile. You can get a dremel cut off wheel to cut it from the inside to the proper height.(you can attach the bit to a drill if you dont have a dremel) It looks like the the pipe is too close to the tile so you will have to cut the tile too if you can not straighten out pipe. You would then ...


1

Go with your second approach of getting the right size fitting except don't bend the pipe, just deal with the angle. You pan lip should be higher than the ending (with fittings) top of the drain pipe so it can drain but that's all you need. Why? PVC fumes are extremely toxic and you have a significantly better chance breaking the pipe than fixing the angle; ...


1

Moving water, preferably hot. If you can get a small flow that doesn't back up then it will dissolve away easily. Environmentally safe degreaser/cleaner, I prefer Simple Green Baking soda and vinegar, it will clean almost any small clog. With something that dissolves easily like soap, the extra air bubbles produced will help getting it clean with less ...


1

Think air behind water. The drain must be properly vented for it to withstand the rush of water from a washing machine pump.


1

Depending on the diameter of the tubing, and I'm guessing it's not very large since it hardly needs to be, you might be able to install a saddle tap valve to the cold water line and the primer tubing to it.


1

I haven't seen the drain guns for plumbing, only for HVAC condensation lines (for which a shop vac also does a pretty good job and has multiple uses). But a pneumatic drain gun is going to have a similar effect as a plunger, pushing out a clog as long as it's before or at the vent pipe, but not after. For anything after the vent pipe, you'll need a snake to ...


1

If it's a slime (i.e. something alive) you might want to try pouring some bleach down the drain to see if that helps. A couple of gallons of bleach shouldn't bother a municipal sewage line, but it might affect a septic system.


1

Snaking might help, as might opening and cleaning the trap (if water is moving slowly, you're more likely to have solids settling out, causing the water to move even more slowly). Ideally you should have a vent at the kitchen sink too; AFAIK, it doesn't have to be dedicated to the sink so you could hook up to an existing vent if you have one nearby.



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