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25

I'm surprised the dripping is that loud but there is a simple solution. Drop a some rope, such as heavy sash cord, down the drainpipe and attach top end in such a way that at least a couple of inches of the rope is sitting inside the gutter itself. The way this works is that the water will tend to run along the rope, which should ensure the water runs along ...


17

When drain water from one fixture comes back out another fixture, it means your blockage is beyond the point where those drains meet. You need to get a good look at the topology of your waste plumbing, to get some ideas about where the blockage is. Clothes washer -> bathtub is a common symptom, because the clothes washer drains a lot of water up high (it ...


14

The smell of sewage is definitely a bad sign and means that either a trap has gone dry or a connection somewhere is bad releasing sewer gasses. Maybe this is related to the vermin, maybe not, but its definitely something that needs a resolution. When checking traps, check: Are all your toilets full of water? Do you have any sinks or fixtures that are ...


11

Here is a pretty quick explanation. Starting from where the water will enter the drain and ending where the water will flow out, dig a ditch that's about 10 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Keep in mind that you will need to dig deeper if your starting point slopes upward. Lay about 2 inches of rock into the trench before placing the pipe lengthwise ...


11

If it rinsed down the drain and hasn't clogged yet then you're in fairly good shape. Clumping litter definitely can be saturated and breaks down. I'm assuming this is some sort of clay based litter (I use a pine based product myself) with fairly small granules and not a lot of stone. Also I'm presuming that you haven't been flushing the line out with ...


11

Yes it's normal and what you want. It's called a P-trap and the water sitting in there seals out the sewer gasses. My ASCII P-trap: \ / | | __________ | | _________ \ / / \*\__/*/ \****/ ---- The asterisks would be the water that forms the stopper. In an empty home ...


10

It's a strange method (to me, anyway) but my guess is someone put it there to prevent erosion. If you have water running from the downspout, without anything there it will basically pound a hole into the ground, as well as drain into your foundation, which can cause various problems including flooding of your basement, and cracked foundations. I guess ...


8

If the cost of raising the patio is too great you could get an angle grinder or perhaps a better choice would be renting a concrete wet saw and cut out a strip about 6 inches wide from the edge that meets the house wall. As @woodchips points out in his comment, make sure you wear gloves, safety goggle and a mask for this. It'll get hot, but it's very dusty ...


8

I think you need to increase the angle of the vertical piece just slightly so the drips can't fall the entire length of the spout and then hit the angle portion at the bottom; instead they will silently wet themselves to the side of the spout and then roll down. Detach the bottom end from the house and play with the angle while you have a slow trickling ...


8

I can't think of any reason why not - and in fact I'd recommend it. Right now your sump is draining water out right next to the house, which means its seeping back into the ground right against your foundation, which means your sump pump is ultimately pumping at lest some of the same water multiple times.


8

First of all, it's a very good idea to get the water away from the house; in general you don't want any pooling or draining water around your foundation. The farther away you have sump pumps, eaves troughs, etc going, the better. You'll want to check the total discharge head of the pump before you do this. Pump performance is rated in terms of both volume ...


8

An unused drain or toilet will eventually dry out. The easy solution is to just run a little water periodically (on the order of every other month). If you still smell sewer gases, then you have a failure in the drain line somewhere. One common location is the wax seal under the toilet. You should also make sure nothing is nesting in the exhaust vent. That ...


7

The proper way to fix it is to dig- all the way down to 6" below the bottom of the foundation- then install drain tile & gravel. Coat the outside of the walls with tar, then install plastic protector sheets so it doesn't get damaged by the backfill. Condensation could still be an issue- perhaps installing closed-cell foam around the outside (say, 2-4" ...


7

The weak points in any guttering system are where the various sections join. If the gutters aren't fitted correctly then any system will leak. So look for a system that has an easy to fit joint, or perhaps one where the joints are bonded. As long as they have the capacity to carry the volume of water you expect then any correctly installed system will be ...


7

Another option would be to cut the pipe above and below the cleanout, and install a PVC Y-fitting with a cleanout cap using no-hub couplings like these: I would think that drilling and/or sawing out the old cast iron cap is going to be a giant pain in the rear, and will be likely to damage the cleanout fitting to the point where it needs to be replaced ...


7

It's a drywell... water goes in and is absorbed into the soil. If you are in an area with sandy soil, this is usually ok. In heavy rain seasons, the water table rises as more and more water is absorbed into the ground. As things return to normal, the water table drops. If you're interested, Google for "water budget" or "groundwater budget" and you should ...


7

This is a tough one. There is no easy way to remedy your problem. The best way would be to remove and replace the tiles properly. If in fact the tiles are real marble, you can grind them to create the proper angle and slowly refinish the surface by stepping down grits and finally getting to a wet polish grit of 2400. That is actually impracticable for a DIY ...


6

Consumer Reports recently did a review of various Gutter Guards. (You can buy the issue or join their web site to see the full results.) http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine-archive/2010/september/home-garden/gutter-guard/overview/index.htm GutterStuff scored near the bottom. CR also said that water surface tension systems (like the Gutter Cap ...


6

Here's another article about a French / Trench drain: Basically the same idea, except he doesn't recommend lining the ditch with fabric or putting a sock on the pipe. He does recommend using rigid perforated pipe instead of the corrugated pipe with slits in it.


6

At the botton of the dishwasher, there's probably a basket-like cover over the drain. You should be able to pop that off, and under there you'll find a nice collection of disgusting bits. I used a turkey baster to blast a lot of it loose, then scooped the resulting soup into a bucket, but next time I'll just use a wet-dry shop vac.


6

It sure sounds like you have an obstruction beyond the trap. You're right in that the liquid drain cleaners are not real effective on this kind of blockage. If you cannot run a snake through the trap and beyond, some disassembly of the drain system my be necessary to reach the problem area. This is not the way all plumbing drains work, they are suppose to ...


6

I'll let others chime in with gutter ideas. Just keep in mind that you'll need to make sure they can handle the expansion from ice without cracking. But I did want to mention a few alternative solutions you may want to consider. If you want to keep the lawn, you may consider at a french drain, possibly with some ground level openings to handle severe ...


6

You could try hiring an electric eel or get a plumber with a jetter But either of these options may still not work it the pipe is broken or snapped and the two sections of pipe are now ofset from one another. Even if these options do work to clear the pipe you still have to remember that the cause of the root problem is still there, cracked or broken ...


6

That's a drum trap, not a P-Trap. Be sure it's listed to comply with your code requirements. Looks slick anyway. You'll need a 45 degree chrome compression ell and maybe some extra pipe. You'll end up with the trap arm out of the drum running at a 45 degree horizontal angle to the wall. It will be cut quite short before it enters the ell. Upon exiting the ...


5

Perhaps the most important point in installing vinyl gutters is to use expansion joints, rather than having rigid joints all the way through, for lengths over about 20 or 30 feet. Vinyl expands and contracts much more than metal, so you have to give it somewhere to go. Brackets used for vinyl should also be designed to allow some sliding movement, otherwise ...


5

I've only done the french drain thing; I have no idea what would be required with tying into a storm sewer; you'd likely want to contact the local government and/or water company to ask. Anytime you're digging, you'll want to be aware of where underground utilities are. In the DC area, you call 'Miss Utility', and they'll mark out everything. (I think ...


5

Your first step should be to try to divine where in (or outside of) your house the blockage is. If your outside drain is overflowing you know the blockage is downstream of that, so if that drain is teed off the main waste line coming out of your house, you know you've got a block between the drain and the sewer or septic tank. If that's the case the most ...



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